dt502001 Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 CTC sell this http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/valve-spring-compressor-0256191p.html but its a POS and hard to work with but for 15 bucks it should get your small job done. Option 2 is to buy a deep C clamp and cut/grind a slot in the side of a piece of pipe or socket ( can buy another one while your there just find the size you need 18-19 mm first) easier to work with ,still not as easy as a proper tool like thishttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-C-Clamp-Service-Kit-Auto-Motorcycle-ATV-Small-Engine/231136540055?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D4296594509461302659%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D350902854753%26 But alot cheaper and you can do it today and have a c clamp for other things. Option 3 take it over to the machine shop and get them to pop them in for you, for the small fee they will charge it might be the easiest way and you get to know them better.
feliks Posted January 22, 2014 Author Posted January 22, 2014 Princess Auto has this one: http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Engine-And-Transmission/Valve-Spring-Compressor/8003725.p probably going to pick it up. It's $50 - what the shop would probably charge to do the job and I'd rather do it myself if I can!
Moderator drewpy Posted January 22, 2014 Moderator Posted January 22, 2014 you can make one from a G clamp and an old socket. Plenty of info on the net
dt502001 Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 Up to you but for the very few times your going to use it in your life I would just go the way drewps and I suggested with a c/g clamp and socket work just about as well
feliks Posted January 22, 2014 Author Posted January 22, 2014 Hmmm maybe I will make one then....lol http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/154570-valve-spring-compressor-0-a.html
feliks Posted January 22, 2014 Author Posted January 22, 2014 Ok...that worked. 10 minutes to do one frickin clip though lol what a bitch these are!! One down...7 to go. Guess I should be thankful I only have two valves per cylinder!
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Woo! Got em all in, job got a little easier as I did each one...but they were still very finicky! A pair of tweezers would have came in handy...ahhh...shit, I just remembered I had medical forceps that would have been perfect!! Damnit...oh well, it's already done! Took my time and started putting everything back together today after I picked up my last $5 rubber grommet from Yamaha today. Torqued the head down with no problems to the specified 16.5ft/lbs, and had no problems with my newly threaded stud hole! Wooooo! Now I just need to mount the cams and finish up the top end. I'm going to use the cams from the donor engine because they should be a better fit. Will check gap to be sure once they're mounted up.
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Oh shit... I think I've actually got all of the hard work done now! Camshafts are lubed up and installed and everything went nice and smooth...even had my marks to work from off the chain so the spacing is identical from when I took it apart. Sweet!
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Another late night, and now the only thing left to do is a valve measurement and adjustment if needed, and then it's back in the bike she goes!
Moderator drewpy Posted January 23, 2014 Moderator Posted January 23, 2014 great, I know the feeling when it suddenly comes together and you think, oh shit nearly done and its gotta fire up. no going back 1
dt502001 Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 Well done , Remember back when this started I said I would come down and help you put it together in a day,well now you know how it's done BUT NOW you get the honnor of saying " I rebuilt this top end myself" and in the end you learned way more and have all the tools to do it again. Don't forget to roll the eng over by hand 4x and recheck you timming marks,with the cam ternsioner in of course.Easier to do if you pull the sparkies.Remember when I told you the noches in the end of the cam line up with the head check it,though It looks right to mee the exhaust cam on#1 is 90 deg. from opening and the intake ( though hard to see) is off the valve by 90 deg. Clean any assembly lube off the cam lobes to measure the clearence.Then re lube One of the best parts of this build is you have vertualy no breakin period just warm it up let it cool down recheck the head bolts and the little one in the front that goes up,warm it up again and drop the oil.The only part yo are realy breaking in is the hone.
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Haha yes you did! I knew there was a small chance of you actually having some time to come and help so I had a feeling I was going to get my hands nice and dirty on this build! Not a bad thing at all... was just nervous about screwing something up! It is harder when you don't have the right tools...and the wife keeps asking "What else did you buy...what else do you need....what was $50 now at Canadian Tire..." LOL I have turned the engine over by hand a few times already to make sure there was nothing binding, I'll be sure to double check my marks and position of the camshafts. I'm not sure how to check valve clearance... gonna need some youtube help (or your help!) on this one! And it's not party time yet.... once I get it back in and it actually fires up then we can celebrate!! lol Well...when the snow melts, then we can celebrate... haha
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 You know... I think the intake cam is positioned incorrectly now that I went and looked at it again...damn! Gotta to take the tensioners off and rotate that bitch....ah well. Better to notice now!
dt502001 Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 Ok not a big deal that the cam is out happens when the tensioner takes up the slack in the chain rotates the intake back. But you can check the valves befor you pull the cam you might need to pull it to re shim so check it now. Rotate the cam so it's 180 from opening (lobe up off the bucket) check the clearence.You can also check the clearence just after the round of the bottom of the cam comes to the flat some cams are tighter there.
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Postin this pic for Flip! I think I need to rotate the intake cam (on the right) one more tooth clockwise - does that look right to you? I've been fucking with them back and forth and I think I've almost got it....'cept I'm off by one small turn I think. (at TDC)
dt502001 Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 No the can tensioner will pull it back and take the slack outa the chain in center of the cams
dt502001 Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 Where are the dots on the cam sprockets and the noches on the end of the cam?
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 ok, I'm gonna put the tensioner back in and see what happens!!
dt502001 Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 Ya it better to have it out of time as you have it then let the tensioner pull into time.It's your first time so it might take a few shots at it just keep rolling the motor over and checking till you get it right.
feliks Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Hmmm.... looks a little off to me still...What do you think? Looks like I have to turn it slightly off TDC to get the lobes to point directly in and out on the #1 and #4 lobes.... here's a pic of it right at TDC, I think if I loosen all of the slack (damnit again! lol) undo the caps, and then rotate the cams one gear tooth clockwise (from looking at this pic) that should do it... then they'll be directly opposite each other while at TDC. Does that sound / look right to you guys? Help is appreciated!!
Recommended Posts