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Project 86 FZ600 - "Black Yamba"


feliks
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So far it's working out well...  the first layer dried solid already, but is still flexible. I'll be sure to post some completed pictures once I get the paint done! :D

 

I was looking into "Plastifix" but after some research, it's just acetone and abs powder.... nothing more.  Can't believe how much they charge people for it...

Just watch that the part isn't too flexible. It might just crack the paint - depending on the type of paint used

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I didn't try straight acetone and ABS filings out. This was easier... ABS glue is pretty much just premixed ABS and acetone. I used a beveled cutting bit on my dremel to cut out the cracks so the glue had somewhere to sit. I thickened up the glue by using your truck of ABS filings though! :D

It's still hardening, I'm sure it'll be perfect by tomorrow...paint is somewhat flexible in itself anyway, depending on what kind you use.

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So according to this DOT# on my tires....they were manufactured in January of 2008. Which means...they're 6 years old...would be 7 by the end of this season...so it's definitely time for new tires! Going to wait until payday and am going to grab a set of Dunlop GT501's

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So the ABS Glue worked awesome for fixing the fairings! It's the exact same consistency as the ABS plastic around it after letting it dry overnight. Going to add a little more to level it off then sand it all smooth. I want to wait until it gets a little warmer (maybe just above 0) before I start spraying all of the body work and gas tank.

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Wooo got my parts today! Except I need one more rubber gasket that I didn't think I was going to need! Gah...so that'll be here on Wednesday.

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Wednesday of what year LOL your dealing with a dealer in Canada remember.

All is looking pretty good dude :thumb: .

Once your glue job set's up at room temp then giver a good flex befor you start painting,I have found that the gule method is ver

strong ,but , dosent want to flex without cracking.

The only way I have found to weld plastic back together is to use stirps of the same type of plastic ( ie from a pannel from the same bike) so you know for sure it's of the same composite.And dril a 1/8" hole at the end of each crack before fixing this stop the crack from "running" past the original end point.

In my youth I worked in a plastic injection moulding factory for a year or so and we made many different parts ,,that all when done looked the same but underwent sterss testing with different mixes of plastic .At the factoy they had atleast 50 different compounds of "virgin"plastic pellets to make parts from ,as well as different ratio's of reground left over"s from the last parts made.So just because it " ABS" dosent mean it's all the same ABS

You can get a flexiable primer for car bumpers and does work quite well for what your doing.

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Well he told me to come by on Wednesday and pick it up so we'll see! It's just a rubber grommet...I guess another dealer has it, he just only had one left, and i needed two.

Will be sure to test out the cracks before I put all the work into painting them again...I did drill the end of each crack so they wouldn't continue to grow. Learned that from youtube videos on the subject. :D Hopefully the glue works out!

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Parts!!!!

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Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

Old seals out... just used some needle nosed pliers - had to be careful not to get the aluminum head with them but with a bit of muscle they came out fairly easily! Screw buying a $55 tool for this!

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Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

New seals in place!

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Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

(another one because I like to take pictures, and engines are sweet looking. :D )

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Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

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Thanks buddy!!

And oh man... it's time to start putting it all back together now... I'm not gonna lie, I'm a little nervous about the potential outcome, I just hope everything goes super smooth, and I don't miss anything on the way. I took enough pictures and studied them, and got enough help from you guys along the way so I should be able to do this....but still, it's my first time. :D We were all nervous our first time.... lol

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Hey Ryan told you the seals were easy,looks good just give em a good cleaning up I can se some small particales in the bucket area.

Put a rag under the valve's as you go to keep them up while you compress the spring to get the keepers in.

For the reassembly have every gasket surface/part cleaned up and ready to go before you start.And whipe down all mating surfaces with some rubbing alcohol

Fitting the pistons will be the hardest part,trying to get the rings to compress into the bore of the cylinder.

I would suggest you try and put a old set of pistons and rings in a old cylinder first so you get a idea as to what your up against.Having some popsicle stick makes it a bit easier to push the ring into the piston as you slide them in but the new rings will be a bit harder.

When installing the oil control rings the wavey 1 goes in first then the 2 small ones and seperate the end gaps of them so none of the end gaps of the rings line up.

I prefeer to do the 2 center pistons first then the outer 2.

Cutting piece's of wood like a horse shoe to fit under the pistons to keep them from floping around while you lower the block into place help too

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looking very nice.

cleanliness is paramount here. read the manual twice before putting it all together and ensure you have a torque wrench handy

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Hey Ryan told you the seals were easy,looks good just give em a good cleaning up I can se some small particales in the bucket area.

Put a rag under the valve's as you go to keep them up while you compress the spring to get the keepers in.

For the reassembly have every gasket surface/part cleaned up and ready to go before you start.And whipe down all mating surfaces with some rubbing alcohol

Fitting the pistons will be the hardest part,trying to get the rings to compress into the bore of the cylinder.

I would suggest you try and put a old set of pistons and rings in a old cylinder first so you get a idea as to what your up against.Having some popsicle stick makes it a bit easier to push the ring into the piston as you slide them in but the new rings will be a bit harder.

When installing the oil control rings the wavey 1 goes in first then the 2 small ones and seperate the end gaps of them so none of the end gaps of the rings line up.

I prefeer to do the 2 center pistons first then the outer 2.

Cutting piece's of wood like a horse shoe to fit under the pistons to keep them from floping around while you lower the block into place help too

Thanks for the tips! I'm re-using the rings that came out of the parts engine, so they're not BRAND new at least, that should make it a little easier.

looking very nice.

cleanliness is paramount here. read the manual twice before putting it all together and ensure you have a torque wrench handy

Thanks! Making some progress....went and picked up a torque wrench this morning actually, knew I was going to need one for reassembly. I've already moved from the dirty garage to the clean basement and created my reassembly area. Got the pistons on the connecting rods and have my rings all lined up according to the specs in the manual, so that no gap is in the same spot.

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Got the cylinder housings on, made a ring compressor out of an aluminum pop can and a big hose clamp for the two inside pistons and once they were in I was able to get the outside two to slide in just using my fingers to compress the rings into the cylinders.

Wooo! One step closer!

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Tried for the last half hour to get the valve retainers into place with no luck, think I'm going to have to break down and buy the valve spring compressor....

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Looking good dude. Yer its best to buy one as there is alot of power in those little springs

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