dt502001 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 What ever you do DO NOT heat the old seal's to remove them,Viton once burnt changes its chemicla propertys and if you touch a vinton seal once it been burnt it can cause a flesh eating condition and the only way to stop it is to cut the skin off below the infected area.
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 O Just one thing it better to have the valve in the head bfore you put the seal on so you don't chance nicking the new seal with the sharp edge of the valve,this way you can put 1 wrap of tape around the top of the valve to slide the new seal over.Thats why I use a tool to push the seal on with. Gotcha - and I'm not getting Viton seals - just getting the regular Yamaha ones.....the dealer never even heard of Viton...but yet they're all over the internet. Perhaps I should have got em, but anyway...it's not hard to pull the valve covers off to replace them if they ever need it again. Gonna have to check the book to see how to remove the seals now, I'm assuming just pull?
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Head is now primed too...gonna let this cure overnight and start the black tomorrow. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
rzresurection Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Lookin real good. Man, that'll be back together in no time.
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Thanks man! Hopefully this paint turns out alright...primer is some industrial shit! The warning label on it is a little scary.... lol "Not for use by the general public, for trained professionals only" - I didn't even breath when I used it. Had an N95 mask on (said to use a respirator but I don't have one) so I sprayed it at the end of my garage with the door wide open, held my breath the entire time I sprayed and ran out into the driveway to breath when I was done haha
Calum122 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Full nut and bolt rebuild haha. Looks like it's going well. Would it not be beneficial to grab a new set of pistons from wossner or the equivalent? Looks like a lot of elbox grease here for sure!
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 I'd get new pistons if the cylinders needed to be bored, the only reason you'd need new pistons is if you bored out too big for the rings to make good contact, but the rings I have on my cylinders are beautiful...well within spec, and the cylinder walls look good too, so I'm going to use the stuff from my parts engine, just grabbing everything that's good! I may do a hone on these cylinders before I actually put everything back together just to be certain it's nice and fresh, then check ring end gap one more time before I put it all together. Paint today.... wife's gone to school and the oven is pre-heating to 300f. lol
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Cylinder housing is done: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Has to cure for 2 hours at 300F. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
Calum122 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Looks tidy man. Must be quite the joy to ride.
Calum122 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Haha been there with the old oven trick lol. Putting in main crank bearings lol 1
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 The bike is an incredible rush! I'm a newbie too..just got my license last Septemeber - had a few months of riding before the snow got too deep and it got too cold, but they may have been the best two months of my life. I just want to have it in the best condition for my ability and budget before riding season comes this year, then I can enjoy riding the whole time instead of fixing! The wife's gone all day...should have the house aired out when she gets home. hahah
sniff6 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Its a brave guy that uses the oven for baking bike parts (speaking from my point of view of course ) Now crack on Feliks
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Bahahaha! They were super clean first, no trace of oil or anything that would smell up the place too bad. It's not the first time I've baked paint in the oven....the smell clears out eventually. What do you think the inside of the oven is coated with anyway?
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Well here she is after spending 2 hours in the oven: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
blackhat250 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Very nice, great finnish . Scarey that tip on the flesh eating eh "
georgen Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Bahahaha! They were super clean first, no trace of oil or anything that would smell up the place too bad. It's not the first time I've baked paint in the oven....the smell clears out eventually. What do you think the inside of the oven is coated with anyway? Enamel
georgen Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Felix, did you not fancy polishing the valves and cleaning the ports out, heres the last one i done, a car engine but hey no different. before After
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 I cleaned em up as much as I could.... they don't stay that pretty once it runs anyway! Valves are a lot cleaner after I cleaned them and lapped them....just didn't post pictures, but got all the crud off them. I just don't want anything that'll cause pre-detonation problems, and I got enough off for that I think. Here's a problem I just found out... since I had the cylinders sitting in the oven ON the cylinders....the heat caused the cylinders to shrink more than the aluminum and the #1 cylinder started to slide up!! Ahhh! So I've got it re-heating now and I've turned it around and put it on some supports to try and slide the cylinder back in..... live and learn!
georgen Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Felix you will have to make sure there level to manufacturers spec, I know you checked the faces so will know if the liners were dead level before you started, saying that you have your old set to check, warm it back up, grab your lasses oven gloves and tap to re-align with a soft hammer or use a block of wood to protect from steel hammer, you will have to check all four. these things are set to try us.
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Well I put some impact driver sockets underneath them right now in the oven, and the cylinders are sitting on those upside down, which also cross to the head face....so...theoretically they should just slide right back into place.... if not, the block of wood is a good idea! Then I'll be sure to check all measurements again to be certain it's right.
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