feliks Posted January 12, 2014 Author Posted January 12, 2014 Damn I broke a piece of the fin off the cylinder housing when I was tapping a block onto it to get it to come loose.... just a little piece, shouldn't affect cooling...but it looks poopy now. Damnit.
feliks Posted January 13, 2014 Author Posted January 13, 2014 Just a quick update - the parts engine I cracked open - has 0 warpage, and I'm talkin I can't even fit a 0.02mm feeler gauge anywhere on the head or cylinder top! This is good news! Along with that...the pistons and rings are good enough to use as is! So that just saved me $200 in parts right there....not bad! Parts should be in tomorrow at the Yamaha dealer - he wasn't too happy that he ordered the rings and now I don't need them...but what are you gonna do....shit changes sometimes! I'll have to eat the restocking fee if I have to...but I'm still picking up like $300 in other gaskets and shit from him so he can't complain too much.
feliks Posted January 13, 2014 Author Posted January 13, 2014 Oh, and on DT's suggestion, I rounded the bracket so it wouldn't go into my ass as easy in case of a crash! Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 Bike has officially been named "Black Yamba" - play on black mamba.... The wife thought of the black mamba part!
rzresurection Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 Oh, and on DT's suggestion, I rounded the bracket so it wouldn't go into my ass as easy in case of a crash! Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Atleast now it will be harder to go into your ass. Lol
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 That's right! Now it'll be a soft slow entry as opposed to a hard painful one... .lmfao
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 Started lapping the valves today... after seeing the results, it is 100% worth the time and effort! Before: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr After: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Valves before and after, or... after and before: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 Picked up a can of 495-1 Aircraft Paint Stripper to use on the top end - going to try it on the carbon deposits.... I've heard it works wonders! Just don't want to get it on my valve seals because they're still good in this top end!
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 Holy shit this Aluminum Aircraft Paint Stripper works awesome on carbon buildup on pistons! This is after just one application... I may give them another treatment, but they're pretty damn good now! Before: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr After: Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
dt502001 Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 for 30 bucks I hope your not going to cheep out and not change the valve seals
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 It's not that - don't you need a special tool to install valve seals?
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 I'll pick em up but I may need a hand installing them! Unless you've got some trick for them too....
Moderator drewpy Posted January 14, 2014 Moderator Posted January 14, 2014 try and get viton valve seals if you can. they last ages and well worth the money
feliks Posted January 14, 2014 Author Posted January 14, 2014 Here's what I've got, and why I debated replacing them.... they look fairly new, and there's no "wiggle" on the valves at all in them. IMG_5740 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
Noise Posted January 14, 2014 Posted January 14, 2014 Looking good. That aircraft stripper stuff looked like it worked
dt502001 Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 K so the driver you need to put the seals in is just a deep socket basicaly that fit the size of the seal ..measure the seal outer get dril bit to fit and drill the end of a smaller socket so you have a nice taper to fit on the metal part of the seal ...you might even have one in your tool box that wil fit . Then carfuly line em up push them down as far as you can then tap em down with the tool ..sockets work great for this cause you can add a extension easy.
feliks Posted January 15, 2014 Author Posted January 15, 2014 Ok let me see if I have this right... Modify a small socket to fit over the valve seal and push it down, using a hammer to tap the seal fully on?
blackhat250 Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Just done my Zed 9. And just pushed then down onto the valve guide, and fit valve after, .. its only the valve guide that needs a special drift to remove and refit,,
feliks Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Ah cool... ok should be pretty easy then. Started on the engine paint today, after stripping the old stuff with aircraft paint remover for aluminum, I hit it with a wire brush and sandpaper. Then washed it with some pre-paint prep tar and grease remover and got to taping. I got self etching primer on one section so far...going to finish off tomorrow when the wife's at school with duplicolor gloss block engine paint, cured in the oven. Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
dt502001 Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 O Just one thing it better to have the valve in the head bfore you put the seal on so you don't chance nicking the new seal with the sharp edge of the valve,this way you can put 1 wrap of tape around the top of the valve to slide the new seal over.Thats why I use a tool to push the seal on with.
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