feliks Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 Has lots of tread left, but it's old, and the rubber is hard.... I suspect I need a new front & back tire, handlebars wobble a bit when I take my hands off them...but everything else seems nice and straight. How's the tail end look anyway, besides the tire?? lol
rzresurection Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 Doesn't matter how much tread you have if the rubber is hard. For sure put new tires on the list. Did you figure out what is the widest tire you can squeeze in there?
rzresurection Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 Oh forgot. The tail looks pretty. LolLooks good. I do like that the signals are integrated.
feliks Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks buddy! lol I'm probably going to go with 140-80-18 or 140-70-18 - book says 120-80-18 and I don't want to push it too wide off the rim... Do you think the hard rubber could have contributed to me going down at the beginning of december as well??
rzresurection Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 ... Do you think the hard rubber could have contributed to me going down at the beginning of december as well?? Hell ya. Hard, cold rubber - that's a recipe for disaster. I had the same thing happen to me on my '81 RD one fall. My tires were a little old and hard. They came with the bike when I bought it. Was riding hard one day. The tires were warm enough to work. We stopped for a bit to chat. The sun started setting. The tires weren't warm anymore. The first corner I took...I hit the pavement. I ended on someone's front lawn. You need soft, sticky tires to stay upright.
feliks Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 Guess I did pretty good only going down once! lol!
dt502001 Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 If your front end wobbles when you take your hands off,your steering head bearings need service and adjustment. as for tires a 1308018 is as big as you want to go a140 will fit like crap on the rim with no benifet. I liked metzlers on mine,ran them on my rz as well. The tail end i am of 2 minds,In the first pict I like it,looks modernish.In the second pict it look's un finished kinda like someone crashed and stuck the solo cover on. Your not going to put the stock stuff back on so with some planning the side pannels could be trimed to fill in the area,the gsxr cover sectioned to fit the width of the seat and blend with the side pannels The bracket you had made has a 90 just above the mounting bolt that if the cover comes off in a crash is going in your ass file it out to a raidus.
feliks Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 Well the second picture is from kneeling down under the bike, not many people are going to look that way up there... and like I said I'm going to have some side pieces to fill in so it's not finished yet. Bracket is bolted on there good, and I plan to get it welded, it's not going to budge, it will be once piece! If there are any pieces left sticking up or out I'll be sure to grind em off though! Thanks for looking out for me! lol
Moderator drewpy Posted January 11, 2014 Moderator Posted January 11, 2014 what if you had shiny shoes and you were checking them out near the bike. Now you can see under the bike then what?
feliks Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 Kick dirt at their shoes so they become less shiny?
Moderator drewpy Posted January 11, 2014 Moderator Posted January 11, 2014 Kick dirt at their shoes so they become less shiny? then a scuffle breaks out, all because you didn't sort under the bike
rzresurection Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 If your front end wobbles when you take your hands off,your steering head bearings need service and adjustment. For sure possible. It probably has free balls with upper and lower races - like my RZ. I'll show you how to replace them with tapered bearings. Too many wheelies dents the original races. Lol
rzresurection Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Guess I did pretty good only going down once! lol! That's just the first time... Lol
rzresurection Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Guess I did pretty good only going down once! lol! That's just the first time... Lol
feliks Posted January 12, 2014 Author Posted January 12, 2014 then a scuffle breaks out, all because you didn't sort under the bike Shit's gonna get real! For sure possible. It probably has free balls with upper and lower races - like my RZ. I'll show you how to replace them with tapered bearings. Too many wheelies dents the original races. Lol Free balls. lol That's just the first time... Lol I meant to say "so far"....
feliks Posted January 12, 2014 Author Posted January 12, 2014 Well here's the head off one of the parts engines - this one is in better shape than the other engine, the other has 3 stripped exhaust bolt holes!! Wtf! Anyway..the valves on this have MUCH less carbon buildup than my engine did, so I'm going to use this head! I'm thinking I should still knock the valves out and relap them to be safe...what do you guys think? Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr
Moderator drewpy Posted January 12, 2014 Moderator Posted January 12, 2014 seems silly not to and the benefits will outway the hassle
dt502001 Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Be dumb to not put the valve seals on,and to do that you have to pull it apart anyway.So why not lap the valves at the same time,the better the valves seal then better the compression. You should have all the cylinders measured,or check end gap and go with the smallest bore/gap and use the pistons from that motor Any idea as to what year that motor is? Check the cams to see if they are different. It just the exhaust thats different right DREW?
feliks Posted January 12, 2014 Author Posted January 12, 2014 One motor is an 86, one is an 88, not sure which is which.... I'll check out the ring gap today on this motor that I'm stripping down, and see how the cylinders look! Good idea, might as well use the best of what I've got, and do this right and once!
dt502001 Posted January 12, 2014 Posted January 12, 2014 Ya I was wrong about you old motor ever being appart and bet they honed it when they "fixed" the head bolt,hopefully you find one with better /tighter end gap. The other thing to look at is the "new stuff" most likely wont have any warp so a matching head and block to go on your good bottom end will save you from having to re surface the old stuff. Find a piece of glass big enough to tape sand paper to and give the head and block a light even sanding in a figure 8 pattern,a poor mans re surface so to speak.This will give the new head gasket something to bite to. 400 grit is fine
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