Has lots of tread left, but it's old, and the rubber is hard.... I suspect I need a new front & back tire, handlebars wobble a bit when I take my hands off them...but everything else seems nice and straight.

How's the tail end look anyway, besides the tire?? lol

Doesn't matter how much tread you have if the rubber is hard. For sure put new tires on the list. Did you figure out what is the widest tire you can squeeze in there?

Oh forgot. The tail looks pretty. Lol

Looks good. I do like that the signals are integrated.

Thanks buddy! lol

I'm probably going to go with 140-80-18 or 140-70-18 - book says 120-80-18 and I don't want to push it too wide off the rim... Do you think the hard rubber could have contributed to me going down at the beginning of december as well??

  On 1/11/2014 at 2:25 AM, feliks said:

 ...  Do you think the hard rubber could have contributed to me going down at the beginning of december as well??

Hell ya.

Hard, cold rubber - that's a recipe for disaster. I had the same thing happen to me on my '81 RD one fall. My tires were a little old and hard. They came with the bike when I bought it.

Was riding hard one day. The tires were warm enough to work. We stopped for a bit to chat. The sun started setting. The tires weren't warm anymore. The first corner I took...I hit the pavement. I ended on someone's front lawn.

You need soft, sticky tires to stay upright.

Guess I did pretty good only going down once! lol!

If your front end wobbles when you take your hands off,your steering head bearings need service and adjustment.

as for tires a 1308018 is as big as you want to go a140 will fit like crap on the rim with no benifet. I liked metzlers on mine,ran them on my rz as well.

The tail end i am of 2 minds,In the first pict I like it,looks modernish.In the second pict it look's un finished kinda like someone crashed and stuck the solo cover on. Your not going to put the stock stuff back on so with some planning the side pannels could be trimed to fill in the area,the gsxr cover sectioned to fit the width of the seat and blend with the side pannels

The bracket you had made has a 90 just above the mounting bolt that if the cover comes off in a crash is going in your ass file it out to a raidus.

Well the second picture is from kneeling down under the bike, not many people are going to look that way up there... and like I said I'm going to have some side pieces to fill in so it's not finished yet.

Bracket is bolted on there good, and I plan to get it welded, it's not going to budge, it will be once piece! If there are any pieces left sticking up or out I'll be sure to grind em off though! Thanks for looking out for me! lol

what if you had shiny shoes and you were checking them out near the bike.

Now you can see under the bike

then what?

Kick dirt at their shoes so they become less shiny?

  On 1/11/2014 at 10:29 PM, feliks said:

Kick dirt at their shoes so they become less shiny?

then a scuffle breaks out, all because you didn't sort under the bike

  On 1/11/2014 at 4:53 PM, dt502001 said:

If your front end wobbles when you take your hands off,your steering head bearings need service and adjustment.

 

For sure possible. It probably has free balls with upper and lower races - like my RZ. I'll show you how to replace them with tapered bearings.

Too many wheelies dents the original races. Lol

  On 1/11/2014 at 3:45 AM, feliks said:

Guess I did pretty good only going down once! lol!

That's just the first time... Lol

  On 1/11/2014 at 3:45 AM, feliks said:

Guess I did pretty good only going down once! lol!

That's just the first time... Lol

  On 1/11/2014 at 11:40 PM, drewpy said:

then a scuffle breaks out, all because you didn't sort under the bike

Shit's gonna get real!

  On 1/12/2014 at 2:15 AM, rzresurection said:

For sure possible. It probably has free balls with upper and lower races - like my RZ. I'll show you how to replace them with tapered bearings.

Too many wheelies dents the original races. Lol

Free balls. lol

  On 1/12/2014 at 2:17 AM, rzresurection said:

That's just the first time... Lol

I meant to say "so far"....

Well here's the head off one of the parts engines - this one is in better shape than the other engine, the other has 3 stripped exhaust bolt holes!! Wtf! Anyway..the valves on this have MUCH less carbon buildup than my engine did, so I'm going to use this head! I'm thinking I should still knock the valves out and relap them to be safe...what do you guys think?

Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

Untitled by feliks.ca, on Flickr

seems silly not to and the benefits will outway the hassle

Be dumb to not put the valve seals on,and to do that you have to pull it apart anyway.So why not lap the valves at the same time,the better the valves seal then better the compression.

You should have all the cylinders measured,or check end gap and go with the smallest bore/gap and use the pistons from that motor

Any idea as to what year that motor is? Check the cams to see if they are different.

It just the exhaust thats different right DREW?

One motor is an 86, one is an 88, not sure which is which....

I'll check out the ring gap today on this motor that I'm stripping down, and see how the cylinders look! Good idea, might as well use the best of what I've got, and do this right and once!

Ya I was wrong about you old motor ever being appart and bet they honed it when they "fixed" the head bolt,hopefully you find one with better /tighter end gap.

The other thing to look at is the "new stuff" most likely wont have any warp so a matching head and block to go on your good bottom end will save you from having to re surface the old stuff.

Find a piece of glass big enough to tape sand paper to and give the head and block a light even sanding in a figure 8 pattern,a poor mans re surface so to speak.This will give the new head gasket something to bite to. 400 grit is fine