feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Woo got it! Trick was to leave the exhaust side cam caps on and remove the intake side first, otherwise there's no tension to be able to remove cams with the sprocket on. This worked perfectly! Thanks for the tip Flip! Maybe someone else using google one day will come across this thread and it'll help em out. Got one out, but UFC is on right now...so on hold until between fights. IMG_5709 by feliks.ca, on Flickr 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Stupid question.... valves and the top end stays together and comes off as one piece, right? As long as I don't need to remove the valves...or am I crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 It does come off as one piece, valves and all....sweet! Learning is fun. Got the cylinder head off...now I can see the cylinders. The walls look like mirrors, no scratches or pitting at all from what I can see...however the piston heads are dirty as fuck! I still need to take the cylinder housing off....is that what it's called? What's the correct terminology here? Here's some progress pictures and a shot of cyl 1,2,3 & 4. IMG_5711 by feliks.ca, on Flickr IMG_5710 by feliks.ca, on Flickr cyl1 by feliks.ca, on Flickr cyl2 by feliks.ca, on Flickr cyl3 by feliks.ca, on Flickr This isn't a scratch it was just a piece of something the fell in there when I snapped the pic. cyl4 by feliks.ca, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Nice job getting it apart. From the pics (always hard to tell exactly), it looks like the bores are in good shape. You should check the ring end-gap (follow the manual). If all is good, give the cylinders a hone. You can buy a honing stone and do that your self. Another tool for the collection. I'd be cleaning those pistons off. One cylinder looks like it's running slightly leaner than the others (slightly lighter brown vs black). I don't think that is the cylinder with the leak at the bottom, is it? Regardless, it doesn't look too significant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Thanks man! Like you said getting it apart is easy.... it's getting it back together that'll be fun. Glad I have help here! #2 is the cylinder with the leak (so in the pic of the engine its the 2nd from the right). You can see some oil blow out at the top of the pic behind the cylinder, where the bolt can't tighten down. Cylinder housing is coming off next.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Now I know what bolt is leaking you will be happy to know that the bottm end dosent need to come appart to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Sweet, so I can just bring the whole bottom end in and they should be able to fix that hole up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Sweet, so I can just bring the whole bottom end in and they should be able to fix that hole up? Just make sure NOTHING gets into the bottom end or you will be taking it apart for cleaning. The m/c shop needs to make absolutely sure of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Sure why not it's just a deeper hole assembled, but once the block is off you'll see that the threads aren't that deep. Thoes pistons are actualy clean from when the fuel washed them (petcock issue's), get some picts of the skirts of the pistons up when you get the block off.Some light pring and a tap with a rubber mallet,wooden block, will help if its stuck down but go easy the fins will break easy .seting all the pistons at the same height also helps. Stuff lots of rags under/in the bottom end before you pull the block completly off the pistons this way anything the is in the cylinders dosen t get into the bottom end.But we will pull the oil pan off to clean/make sure nothing has gotten in and flush it before we put it back together. As long as the cylinders don't have scratches or pitting then a light hone is all thats needed to set the new rings so stock bore rings will work fine. Your parts list is going to look something like 1 top end gasket kit 2 ring set stock bore 3 2 heli coil kits 4 pj1 or vht eng paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Just make sure NOTHING gets into the bottom end or you will be taking it apart for cleaning. The m/c shop needs to make absolutely sure of this. Gotcha - the manual gave a few warnings about that too. Sure why not it's just a deeper hole assembled, but once the block is off you'll see that the threads aren't that deep. Thoes pistons are actualy clean from when the fuel washed them (petcock issue's), get some picts of the skirts of the pistons up when you get the block off.Some light pring and a tap with a rubber mallet,wooden block, will help if its stuck down but go easy the fins will break easy .seting all the pistons at the same height also helps. Stuff lots of rags under/in the bottom end before you pull the block completly off the pistons this way anything the is in the cylinders dosen t get into the bottom end.But we will pull the oil pan off to clean/make sure nothing has gotten in and flush it before we put it back together. As long as the cylinders don't have scratches or pitting then a light hone is all thats needed to set the new rings so stock bore rings will work fine. Your parts list is going to look something like 1 top end gasket kit 2 ring set stock bore 3 2 heli coil kits 4 pj1 or vht eng paint Not a bad parts list! Should I be buying Yamaha gaskets then? I was going to get the whole gasket kit for $170 - but I'm not going to use like half of them so that may be pointless.... if the Yamaha stuff is better and won't cost a crapload I'll go with them. What do you suggest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 DT, Just a question, not being a d@ck, just curious - how do you know that the current pistons are for stock bore? I think you are correct, since you typically don't do a lot of re-boring on 4T's unless something catastrophic happened. Is that your thinking?Pistons for my bike typically have something stamped on the crown, so it's fairly easy to identify. With 2T, you never know what re-bore you're on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Yammy head gasket for sure! Personally, I always try to stick with OEM gaskets, others may diss agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 So far I need: Crankcase Cover Gasket (on the left side of the engine) Valve Cover Gasket Head Gasket Crankcase Gasket Piston Rings (OEM specs?) should measure first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 The machine shop should have all the helicoils they need to do the job, right? As for engine paint.... should I get a brush on or spray, and if I get a spray...would we paint after or before we put it together? And thanks for all the help! I owe everyone at least a beer now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 The m/c shop will be able to get hold of the proper heli-coil size - if they don't have it on hand. I'd almost be tempted to spray it after it's all back together. Will save you time taping. If I remember, you need to do your stator cover as well. Put it all together and paint it all at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Feliks, Where do you buy your Yammy parts from? Is there some place by Dover or do you go to Hamilton or come to Btfd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 I get them from McKee Motorsports in Delhi - they're a yama dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 I can't get the cylinder housing off...gah! Tried every position of the cylinders too....top/bottom....middle....bottom/top..... dang it. Got one side nice and loose but the other is stuck good! I think I need to invest in a rubber mallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Flip gave me some tips via txt....we'll see how I make out after dinner at the in-laws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Think of the new tools you get to buy from completing this whole exercise. Tell you the truth, it just gets worse. You'll get the cylinders off. Sounds like they need some persuasion. You'll get it. Just don't score anything. No need to be costing yourself any extra $$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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