feliks Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 I didn't put much of the restore stuff in the first time around....so this time I'll double it up. No harm in trying, if it doesn't work then I can think about the rebuild. Can anyone make time slow down for a bit please?? lol I've seen some rebuild kits from Japan - are they no good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted December 24, 2013 Moderator Share Posted December 24, 2013 rebuild kits? tell me more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 How will you know if it works at this time of year,short of a compression test? and even that wont be very accurate as you have no Idea as to how fast the "glue" works or for how long. Rip it down now and get it done before the riding season I know your moving so thats a PITA but a few bins from wally mart and you could keep it all from getting lost in the move, a gasket is a gasket save for the head gasket that can varry in quality but as the factorys dont make thiere own any way,they source them from "huck bonig yeppie" so i cant see why it would be a big problem. Post a links to what gasket kits your looking at?,Then if someone has used them they could tell you why they are junk or not For my stuff I normaly use factory head gasket and crank seals but the rest I would use anything that fit.I have built many a motor wit aftermarket kits and had no problems,in some cases the repro stuff has been fixed/made better that OE because they see where it failed and fixed it so it wouldn't again. And as far as slowing time down too late ...I set the time /matter accelerator to warp so spring comes faster 16 more weeks at least befor we will see roads worthy of riding ...so with the accelerator set at warp it will be only 14 weeks,unless the ground gog see's his shadow then it will only be 14 weeks . Just for thoes who wouldnt or dont know we have this stupid tradition that on a day in febuary if the groundhog Wiraton Willy http://www.southbrucepeninsula.com/en/wiartonwillie/welcome.aspsee his shadow then only 12 more weeks till spring,if he dosent then 12 more weeks of winter.Either way it still 12 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Drewpy you mean you cant get thesehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ-600-2HW-1986-1987-Aftermarket-Gasket-Set-/150932536404 took me 2 seconds to find and came up UK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted December 24, 2013 Moderator Share Posted December 24, 2013 that's just a gasket kit. a rebuild kit has all the oil seals in as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 I have never seen them come with the crank,shifter ,output shaft ,rings,,ect seals,normaly just the valve seals ,valve cover,head and paper gaskets. Maybee ryan has found something different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Yeah the gasket kit is what I was talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 I'll probably start with a compression test, see where I'm at before doing anything else! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 I think my next step will be to look for a donor bike with a good engine. This way, I can rebuild the engine in my spare time, and still keep the one I've got running as-is! Either that, or sell this come springtime after I pass my M1 test and pick up a newer Yamaha. Probably R6. We'll see.... I'll be sure to keep you guys posted. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 I'll probably start with a compression test, see where I'm at before doing anything else! Will a compression test really tell you anything useful about the leak? The leak is below where the rings seal to the cylinder. I think you really need a pressure test - block the intake and exhaust ports, then pressurize. This is what we do to 2T. With a 2T, it's critical that there are NO leaks. A leak creates a lean condition that could melt the top end down. I might be off here - dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 ... For my stuff I normaly use factory head gasket and crank seals but the rest I would use anything that fit.I have built many a motor wit aftermarket kits and had no problems,in some cases the repro stuff has been fixed/made better that OE because they see where it failed and fixed it so it wouldn't again. Ok DT, I'm with you on that comment. OEM for sure on head and crank. I go OEM for everything. There are some crappy repro gaskets out there. Ask the RZ guys about oil seal rebuild kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 Well if there's enough oil blowing by the rings, then a compression test should tell me how bad it is, right? I know it measures from the top but if the rings are fucked then it should at least tell me how bad they are.... but, I'm probably off.... if anyone's off here. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 For what a old used motor will cost you your better off just rebuilding your's yep iot might cost a few hundred more but it will be fresh and making full Hp. How long till the move to steel town? If you get all the parts you need,rings ,seals gasket kit, I can drive up and put it together in a day,you buy the beer and burgers. Ya a compression test will show how well the entire top end is sealing,same with a pressure test/leak down test.The difference between a 2t and a 4t is that the crank seals realy arent improtant to the overall running of the motor just keep oil in in a 4t. A 2t however if the crank seal leak then air gets in to the fuel mix and leans the bike out= melted pistons,crank con rod bearing dammage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Ya a compression test will show how well the entire top end is sealing,same with a pressure test/leak down test.The difference between a 2t and a 4t is that the crank seals realy arent improtant to the overall running of the motor just keep oil in in a 4t. A 2t however if the crank seal leak then air gets in to the fuel mix and leans the bike out= melted pistons,crank con rod bearing dammage I understand how important the leak-down test is to a two stroke and that it is the only way to know the health of a 2T engine I understand how a compression test will give the overall health of the top end of a 4T. I guess I was thinking specifically how to assess the spot that was originally leaking. Really, going thru all this trouble just to see if the original leak was any better is a waste. Time would be better spent repairing the root cause, with the correct, one-time fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 For what a old used motor will cost you your better off just rebuilding your's yep iot might cost a few hundred more but it will be fresh and making full Hp. How long till the move to steel town? If you get all the parts you need,rings ,seals gasket kit, I can drive up and put it together in a day,you buy the beer and burgers. Ya a compression test will show how well the entire top end is sealing,same with a pressure test/leak down test.The difference between a 2t and a 4t is that the crank seals realy arent improtant to the overall running of the motor just keep oil in in a 4t. A 2t however if the crank seal leak then air gets in to the fuel mix and leans the bike out= melted pistons,crank con rod bearing dammage If you're serious about that offer, that would be awesome! I can get everything I need together and ready but when it comes to putting an engine together, well I've never done it before so it'd be a learning process and probably take me quite a while! You can do it in a day?! That's nuts! That would be awesome if I could get your help! Beer and burgers on me! The wife will even bake some goodies, she's a great baker! Real estate agent is coming to look at the house Jan 4th so it's going up after that. When's good for you?? I work at home so any time is good for me, you just let me know! Would it be better for me to get the engine apart before you got here or would you prefer to rip it apart and put it together so you know where everything went?? I'm sure you know what to do but I don't want to do anything that'll make it harder for you! Can you think of anything else I may need for parts so I can get them ordered up?? Once again thanks for offering up the help! Merry Christmas to me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 For what a old used motor will cost you your better off just rebuilding your's yep iot might cost a few hundred more but it will be fresh and making full Hp. How long till the move to steel town? If you get all the parts you need,rings ,seals gasket kit, I can drive up and put it together in a day,you buy the beer and burgers. BTW - nice offer DT. You work cheap. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Hey feliks Here is one of many sites that have on-line fiches, so that you can look up part numbers. It helps give you an idea what you may need. http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1986&fveh=177130 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Nice - thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rzresurection Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Nice - thanks! No prob. Can help with cross-referencing same parts on different bikes too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Just thinking out loud here...well, quietly, typing and thinking.... I should take the engine out and apart BEFORE you come, this way I can assess the damage, see what parts I need, AND get the stripped holes rethreaded with some proper inserts! SO! I'm going to get to it!! Any advice for removing the engine? I have the factory manual here so that should help....says disconnect airbox, carbs, pull the carbs out, remove exhaust, remove front sprocket and chain.... seems pretty straightforward. Any tips or just get at it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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