feliks Posted October 16, 2013 Author Posted October 16, 2013 Doing the oil change now, got the exhaust off so I can access the oil filter, got the filter housing off, but the bolt and filter are stuck in the housing...is there some sort of trick for this or do I just give it a good whack on the bolt side to free it up?
Moderator drewpy Posted October 16, 2013 Moderator Posted October 16, 2013 give it a whack with a rubber mallet
feliks Posted October 16, 2013 Author Posted October 16, 2013 Got it out already...but yeah that's all it needed was a good push! I've never done an oil change on a motorcycle before so this is all new to me... learning as I go. Got it all done and put back together, it runs even smoother now than the day I got it with the new filter in there, the old one was almost solid full of crap. Oil and Filter Change by feliks.ca, on Flickr
dt502001 Posted October 17, 2013 Posted October 17, 2013 Wow thats the hard way to change the oil,but as it was your first time I guess it made sence to you to have to pull the exhaust. It can be done with the exhaust in place,bit fiddely but if you keep pulling the exhaust your going to need to replace the o ring gaskets that seal the exhaust or worse strip the studs in the head. If the oil filter was that bad bets to do it again. On the bottom of the carb is a small screw to drain the carb,open it and see what crap come out,getting the carbs out is easy getting them back in can be challenging. As the bike is running good option #2 is to drain the carbs then fill them with carb cleaner through the fuel inlet let it soak over night ,Hold the throttel wide open and crank the motor over a few times ,then drain and flush with new gas not a perfect clean but better than not cleani/ng at all. And this method has proven to work many times for me. Just don't get carb cleaner on the paint as it makes a great stripper.so attach long hoses to the drain port on the bowls. One question has your tank got any rust at all in it,it could be small bit are getting to the carb and jaming the float open.
feliks Posted October 17, 2013 Author Posted October 17, 2013 I'm going to leave the oil & filter for now...but I appreciate the concern! I really don't think there's enough room to get the oil filter cover off with the exhaust in the way, but I didn't try, I only went by what the manual told me to do...luckily the exhaust came off nice and easy! One of the bolts was already stripped though...the flange or whatever it's called is only held in with one nut...but it seems to hold ok as long as I keep checking the tightness of it. I think I need to re tap the stripped threads in order to put a slightly larger bolt in there, but for now, it's good. Good news, no fuel leaks this morning! I guess whatever got stuck, isn't stuck anymore...which is good for me! Do you think I can get away with leaving the bike as-is until snow comes? That way I can take my time while I have it apart and make sure everything gets fixed properly. I'm afraid if I try to do it now, I may rush because I want to get it back on the road... Tank looks pretty good, can't see visible rust, looks like the PO patched up a spot on the very bottom corner but I think that's just the support for the tank. No rust or metal fragments were on my oil drain plug magnet.
dt502001 Posted October 18, 2013 Posted October 18, 2013 Old sayin "don't fix what aint broken" as we are weeks away from bein snowed in can't see why not. The fz is one of the easiest motors to get out( for a inline 4),the last one I did the carbs on I loosened the frame and rotated the motor foward/down to get them in/out. For the exhaust I would put in a heli coil or a thread sert.
feliks Posted October 18, 2013 Author Posted October 18, 2013 Interesting..never heard of such devices but I googled it and that makes sense...maybe I'll try that for the missing bolt! Thanks!
Moderator drewpy Posted October 18, 2013 Moderator Posted October 18, 2013 Old sayin "don't fix what aint broken" as we are weeks away from bein snowed in can't see why not. The fz is one of the easiest motors to get out( for a inline 4),the last one I did the carbs on I loosened the frame and rotated the motor foward/down to get them in/out. For the exhaust I would put in a heli coil or a thread sert. To get the carbs out, I loosened the top rear sub frame, took out the battery box and air box. unconnected the muffler and the whole thing hinged back to get to the carbs. can do it in 1/2 hour now
feliks Posted October 19, 2013 Author Posted October 19, 2013 Great advice and tips, thanks guys! Got all of the stripes painted black that were purple and had to take some updated photos... Here she is! Black 1986 Yamaha FZ600 by feliks.ca, on Flickr Black 1986 Yamaha FZ600 by feliks.ca, on Flickr Black 1986 Yamaha FZ600 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
feliks Posted October 21, 2013 Author Posted October 21, 2013 So before bed last night I checked on the bike...gas on the floor. Gah. So I took off the fuel line and clamped it up with some vice-grips then went to bed. Got up today and drained the gas into a gas can here (should have just done that last night) and got to taking her apart! Was trying to put it off...but, that's not going to happen. First things first. Took off the gas tank, and then the petcock to inspect. The diaphragm and springs and internals all look good, but there is one gasket that's under the knob that looks a little rough, and this gasket is the one that should be stopping the flow of fuel when it's in on position, but the bike is off. So.... I rotated the gasket and cleaned it up..hoping it'll work, and I'm going to test it out with a bit of gas in the tank. Next will be taking the carbs out to clean then, I bet my floats are stuck. Third will be installing a secondary fuel-cut off valve, this will "solve" the symptoms, but not the problem.
feliks Posted October 21, 2013 Author Posted October 21, 2013 So I tried taking the whole petcock apart but there's a rubber gasket in there that's just messed up enough to allow fuel to flow no matter what.... it's just a drip when the engine's off but it's enough. Think I'm gonna just pick up this $12 fuel cut off valve for when the bike's sitting for now until I can get a new petcock for this, or a non-vacuum petcock. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/2/OutdoorLiving/SnowRemoval/SnowthrowerAccessories/PRD~0603912P/Snowthrower+Universal+Fuel+Line+%26+Shut-Off+Valve+Kit.jsp?locale=en
feliks Posted October 21, 2013 Author Posted October 21, 2013 This is what I need! Apparently I can't post an ebay link...but here's the pic:
feliks Posted October 21, 2013 Author Posted October 21, 2013 Actually, I found a non-vacuum assist petcock that I may pick up....plus it has on, reserve, and off. Off is a good thing to have.
dt502001 Posted October 22, 2013 Posted October 22, 2013 The pet cock from my wr might fit,give me the mesaurments bolt hole center to center and I will check.It has off.Thing is the same rubber wears out in them too but faster cause your using it everytime you shut the bike off. For the ten bucks to get the new rubber I would try it first,I`ve replaced many and they all worked proprely after.
feliks Posted October 22, 2013 Author Posted October 22, 2013 Thanks for the offer! Yeah I'll try that rubber piece out first maybe.. it's cheap enough...but for now I stuck in a secondary shut-off valve to be certain no gas can get through when it's off. Should come in handy for when I winterize it and want to run the gas out of the carbs. Secondary Fuel Cutoff Valve - Yamaha FZ600 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
feliks Posted October 22, 2013 Author Posted October 22, 2013 Alright, everythings back together, tank is in, gas is filled, no leaks, starts up, and I can shut it off permanently now if needed, woo! Mission success.
Moderator drewpy Posted October 23, 2013 Moderator Posted October 23, 2013 you can get kits from http://www.siriusconinc.com/ I have a local supplier, but these guys are in Canada
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