Posted October 1, 201311 yr Can anyone guide me through a clutch adjustment before I consider replacing clutch packs? Fitted new cable so no problem there. The manual talks of an adjustment screw behind the cover. I have 2 DT175`s and notice the angle on the clutch levers on the engines very different. The one that`s slipping, the angle on this lever is way more forward. Is this maybe a clue its out of adjustment.
October 25, 201311 yr Author OK I see the pip. Adjustment is a bit out towards forward of the bike. Strange thing is, the other bike with the good clutch is even more out in the other direction. I`ve checked out a video which shows the play on the gear lever also gives an indication of clutch adjustment. Lever on the bad clutch very loose and on the good clutch very tight..so seems that`s also telling me something.
October 25, 201311 yr Moderator like I said, you have to slacken the cable off, then push the actuating arm forwards by hand. it should stop / show resistance when the pointer on the end of the actuating arm aligns with the pip. Use the adjuster in the centre of the pressure plate to achieve this.
October 26, 201311 yr Author How important is the return spring on the actuating arm? Mine is broken and loose so do I need to replace it?
October 26, 201311 yr Moderator It will stop the clutch lever from rattling about when the clutch is disengaged...your call really
October 29, 201311 yr Author Adjusted arm in line with the pip but it still seems to be slipping. I think new clutch plates required here.
October 29, 201311 yr Moderator Have you got free play at the lever? is the cable dead free with no sticktion between inner and outer?
October 29, 201311 yr Author Yes made sure it has about 10mm play at the lever. Its a brand new cable..replaced it so i could eliminate that.
October 29, 201311 yr Air head is the pressure plate screw not suposed to be loosened 1/8 of a turn after bottoming before tighting the lock nut? To alow the pressure plate to fully seat.
October 29, 201311 yr Moderator Air head is the pressure plate screw not suposed to be loosened 1/8 of a turn after bottoming before tighting the lock nut? To alow the pressure plate to fully seat. I see what you are getting at but the adjustment is done with the actuating arm pointer...and the marker on the case. The pressure plate adjuster is used to align these. Because the operating arm travels further back (aided by the return spring) there is no danger that the clutch push rod doesnt have any free play. Of course you need some cable slack to allow this. And yes the broken return spring wont help!
October 29, 201311 yr Author So do you think replace clutch pack..or is there any more adjustments I can check?
October 29, 201311 yr Ah I see now the free play is achived by the cam in the chain cover returning past the point of touching the push rod,so holding the actuating arm with resistance against the push rod is essential when setting the arm to the pip on the case via the adjusting screw in the pressure plate.
October 29, 201311 yr Moderator You are having lots of trouble, I'd replace the friction plates and the arm spring if i was going through all of this bother, perhaps the plates have become hard/glazed with the slipping!
October 29, 201311 yr Moderator Yes that's it with this bike mate Ah I see now the free play is achived by the cam in the chain cover returning past the point of touching the push rod,so holding the actuating arm with resistance against the push rod is essential when setting the arm to the pip on the case via the adjusting screw in the pressure plate. Item 20 part~ 90508-20345 http://www.motosport.com/ZA/motorcycle/oem-parts/YAMAHA/1978/IT175/CLUTCH
October 29, 201311 yr Well that sum it up then Mc ferra if you have adjusted the arm properly then the only thing's left are worn/glazed plates or weak springs
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