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dragstar 650 1999


chas1954
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Hi Chas, if it CLONKS into first gear, they all do that, but if it clonks in ALL the gears then you might have a problem, when you think about it to change gear you move a moving shaft (crank) into a non-moving shaft through the gearbox, if you do it slow you get a CLONK if you do it fast you will not get such a loud CLONK, this is because if you bang it in it cannot grind where as if your gentle with it you get a grind. The best way to ease the clonk noise is to pump your clutch lever a couple of times to make sure the plates are separated, especially first time you start it as over night they can stick, then get your revs a low as you can to reduce the amount of turn on the crank shaft and get it into gear quickly but firmly, this is the only way I know of avoiding a loud CLONK, you could if you lived on a hill, roll down the hill before you select first gear, but people only usually do that when they are stealing your bike!!

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In all honesty Chas, Yamaha gearboxes are either clonky or clanky, I've tended to live with it, sometimes thinking whether the gearbox is going to survive or not but after about twenty years as long as the engine is well lubricated I have seemed to accepted it.

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I find that if I lightly preload the gear shift before actuating the clutch mine changes smoothly. If I actuate the clutch before applying pressure to the shift lever I get the clunk.

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fil77 is right, forgot that bit, it seems that if you put a light pressure on the gear change it helps with the clunk, well spotted fil.

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I find that if I lightly preload the gear shift before actuating the clutch mine changes smoothly.

Can you explain that to me because me no understand.

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You put downward pressure on the gear lever as you pull the clutch in. It's supposed to preload the gear but I am to lazy to bother but some people swear by it.

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Thats a shure way of blueing selector forks,,,,as you apply pressure, the drum will start to turn = selector fork rubbing on gear,

Try shifting up without clutch,,, as there is no syncromesh. in bike gearboxes,

Once selector forks are blued [ burnt] they will wear to the point they"re thin , resulting in sloppy changes ,

and jumping out of gear,,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq11CusULlk

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Thats a shure way of blueing selector forks,,,,as you apply pressure, the drum will start to turn = selector fork rubbing on gear,

Try shifting up without clutch,,, as there is no syncromesh. in bike gearboxes,

Once selector forks are blued [ burnt] they will wear to the point they"re thin , resulting in sloppy changes ,

and jumping out of gear,,

I have to dissagree. The clunck is the sound of a shock within the gear box as the dogs running at different speeds try to engage. That would be much more destructive than two parts, well lubricated and rubbing together (which is what they are designed to do anyway). It creates a smooth change with no grinding, clunk, or jerking. I preload each time I shift both up and down, have for years. Shifting without the clutch will occure if you use a little more preload pressure and remove the load on the gears, ie drop the acceleration or decelleration. Same deal with the selector forks rubbing though. I will take the smoot change over a clunk anyday.

Can you explain that to me because me no understand.

You apply some pressure to the shift lever, either up or down according to which gear you want to select, before actuating the clutch. Not enough to force the change without the clutch but just getting it ready to change. When you want to make the change you actuate the clutch and ensure to push the gear lever fully home when it moves. I keep the pressure on the gear change lever untill I have released the clutch to ensure the change is complette. Match the engine revs whilst the clutch is actuated.

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