Noise Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Right here we go! this thread is a walk through talk through of how to attempt to rebuild the XVS 650 Dragstar engine. I am not a mechanic, nor will i ever use mechanical terms. I am just a keen DIY'er with a Haynes Manuel and a little knoledge of Mechanics. If there is some thing ive missed or you would like to know then i will try and help with extra pics etc if not as we are on a forum.................................um, i guess you can ask everyone else. I DO NOT KNOW EVERY THING................................................... so be warned i maybe doing things completely wrong and you can laugh point etc and watch me further fuck up my bike, but at the end of the day at least you will know how NOT to do it and come away knowing that ive still tought you all a lesson So what you will need are the following: One dead and stripped XVS 650 Engine Haynes Manuel Tools (i have soem good ones but still very basic) Hi Fi System Some where to do the job (Shed, Kitchen, Living room) RTV Sealent (gasket / crank case's) Copper slip + Loc tight Paraphin (for cleaning) Blue Roll / Rags New full engine gasket set Rubber gloves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttaskmaster Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Heh heh, good luck!! And post LOTS of piccies!!! Incidentally, for you and others who were asking - blokie still hasn't started on sorting the spares from the bits he wants. The 650 is a sideline project for when he isn't inundated with bikers and Supra drivers (as well as general car owners who can't change their own oil) queued up for work doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Right, the reason why i had to rebuild my engine was because of a fucked crank and big end bearings, so i managed to get my hands on a very good second hand one from the states so this is my starting point of how to rebuild from. _____________________________________________________________________________ Start with making sure your happy with the condition of the crank case's paint, if your not then remove old paint and re-paint. i done mine in Halfords VHT gloss black and its brilliant, probably the only good thing they sell bar WD40! Start by packing out the inside of the crank case with blue roll / rag to stop any shit getting inside and make cleaning easyier. After paint (first thing depending) start cleaning all of the mating surfaces of the crank case ready to put them back together when doing this crap will fall in the case but hopefull the rag will stop it going too far in. Once these are clean then get cleaning the inside of the cases. As my big ends where shagged i had shards of copper colored metal every where so took a fair while getting this out. Now its time to start rebuilding! Install new crank, wrap rag / blue roll around the con rods to prevent any damage when you join the cases together. As you can (hopefully see) the mating surfaces are nice and clean ready for the sealant Once this is in place DRY fit the case's to make sure things are lined up and not all to cock so that once the sealant is on every thing slides in gravy. Note: That the gear selector is a funny shape and has to line up with the cut out in the left hand case! And make sure all the dowls are still in place! Once your happy with the dry fit remove the left case and wipe the mating areas again and apply RTV sealant. Join the two case's toghter (you may have to tap it with a soft mallet (DONT WACK IT................TAP IT) Place all the crank case bolts back in place and do them up just shy of finger tight, now get your Haynes Manuel and find the page for the tightening sequence and start to do them up bit by bit so that the case's sit flush. TORQUE SETTINGS ARE: 6mm bolts (small bolts) = 10nm 8mm bolts (fat bolts) = 24nm Once you have done this then id say its time for a Cup of tea. Next job is to start putting all the other crap back in. TO BE CONTINUED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted August 15, 2013 Author Share Posted August 15, 2013 Right then, after your cuppa its time to get cracking again. Sping the engine round to the right side and lay it down (like so) Now its time to fit the Gear selecting Mechinisum, this is a bit of a pain in the ass and i forgot to take pics of this process but its quite self explanitory how to get it in place. Here is a pic of it in place (bottom left) Other side of Gear selecting mech Now its time to fit the Front cylinder timing chain with one of the chain guides, followed by the oil pump gears. Slide the chain throught the top of the case and then over the top of the crank shaft onto is gear. Then slide the chain guide down through the top as well and do up the two nuts. NOTE: that the chain has a small spot of paint on the side that should face out towards you After this place the oil pump gears over the crank shaft and do up the center nut, then pinch the locking washer round the nut TORQUE SETTING FOR CENTER NUT IS 70nm Next job is to fit the clutch basket and clutch plates. Pretty easy, as long as when you took it apart you tie wrapped it all in the same order you took it off. just slide all the parts over the shaft and bobs your fanny! When you put the clutch plates in, all the fins on the basket are blank bar one, this one has two little dots hammered in, this is the grove that the notches on the clutch plates that have two V shapes cut out goes in. Groves for the clutch plates lined up with pin holes TO BE CONTINUED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Looking good.... Make sure you don't leave any of them blue paper towels in there though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 Ha Ha, yer tell me bout it ive been pulling them out as ive been building her up but replacing as i go so that if i did drop any thing then atleast i aint gotta strip it again or try and hold it up side down and shake the bit out Right next, spin the engine round to the right hand side, now its time to fit the Rear timing chain and chain guide. Slid the chain down through the top and thow it over the Shaft out the side of the case onto its gear, then slide the chain guide down through the top as well and bolt into place. Next is to fit the starting gear (big thin gear) this is behind the fly wheel. Now in side the fly wheel there are six 6mm alen head bolts that fix a bearing onto the back of the fly wheel, you have to remove three of these bolts to fit a puller to remove the fly wheel but i removed all six bolts and took the bearing off to inspect it. So after fitting the starting gear, slide the bearing over the shaft as well and push it over the lip of the starting gear. Next up is to fit the wood ruff key. BEfore fitting make sure the grove the key goes in is clean and free of shit and so is the key, other wise it aint going in, fit the key so that the curved part is facing down and make sure its not in on the tit (it wont fit flush as it needs to stick out the top) now grab your fly wheel / rotor line its grove up with the wood ruff key and slide it on. Stick its bolt in and start tightening it up Torque setting is 80 Nm Tip: nw the Fly wheel will turn as you do its nut up, as im a basic tool holder i didn't have a special tool to stop it spinning so a folded bit of blue roll in the gears done the trick just fine with no damage. Next up is to fit the starter motor gear. very easy, slide the gear in first and then slide in the shaft (small gear in the pic) Now on to the pistons. Stuff blue roll into the crank cases under the con rods and down in the timing chain holes just in case you drop the piston's locking clips. push out the pistons shaft and fit to the con rod. now fit the locking clips. These are fiddely little things (well for me they where, it was my first time) so if its your first time too then the way i managed it was to fit the bottom of the clips first that have the split then push in the top (where to half circle cut out is on the piston) as far as i could with my finger, then pushed it home with some pointed nose pliers. Now fit the prop shaft coupling, easy as pie! push into place (but not all the way in) but in the four bolts but dont do them up, now fit the two half circle thin spacers so the notches in them line up with the bolts and then start bolting it up. Job done TO BE CONTINUED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Ok your doing a nice job and making a great" how to" but take the time to clean the pistons, this should have been done before installing so you should buy new c clips and remove them so no carbon ends up in the bottom end,carb cleaner work ok if you soak the pistons in it for a couple of days. then a stiff bush like a nail Personaly I would have used three bond and not rtv to seal the cases. Keep at it and you'll be riding soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 Thanks for the tips dt, as I said at the top I ain't no mechanic and have some good tools but nothing professional ha ha. As for the rtv sealant my step Dad has used it on his Harleys and every bike he has owned so if it's good enough for him then it's gunna do for me ha ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 LoL noise ever notice that hardleys leave ther pee spot everywhere they park,I'm not saying it wont work but three bond 1104 is what yamaha uses,hope it works and you don't have a bike that likes to leave pee spots.Would be dissapointing to go to all that work and have a leaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Lol, it's not leaking oil. It's swetting power! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Oh that explanes it then why there so slow,when it supposed to be resting all the power leaks out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Yep exactly ha ha. Still trying to figure out what to do with regards to fueling. Do I stick with what I've got, turbo it but that means a side draft carb as well as the turbo or shall I chuck a Weber 40 carb on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Ya cant turbo it with stock pistons,the compression is to high and the stock head gasket won't hold.you would have to oring the head and barrel.Have them groved to hold copper wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikkoH Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Right, the reason why i had to rebuild my engine was because of a fucked crank and big end bearings, so i managed to get my hands on a very good second hand one from the states so this is my starting point of how to rebuild from. HI, I have same problem.... Did you find your new replacement part from eBay? Or from some other website? 650€ crank if I buy new one. I can't find replacement bearing big enough so I can machine the old crank.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noise Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Hi Mikko, It took me some digging but in the end i found the whole crank with con rods on Ebay USA. by the time i had finished messing about with a full gasket set and oil pump etc it would have been cheaper to just buy a new second hand engine (plenty on Ebay)It take a fair bit of hunting my friend for a good crank so don't loose track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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