j0hn Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Got this bike a couple of weeks ago and posted about it in sub forum. I've just had some time this week to start working on making it road legal. It'll be used as an off-roader and the XT will still be my commuter bike. I don't have a trailer so it needs to be legal enough to get me to the trails. Here it is in it's initial state. And next to my XT. I've had a lot of info from some of the members about where to begin in my first thread and a special thank you to dt502001 for covering a lot more detailed stuff . Initial issues No speedometer (only an odometer) Exhaust has no baffle Small number plate 6x5 (not road legal 9x7) Rear tyre for race/competition use only Rear brake light only works with foot brake (standard), must work with hand brake to be legal Push button to start the bike (not too comfortable with this so I'll be looking to install an immobiliser) This is only a bare minimum list. I have plans to mod it slightly for aesthetics - like replacing that hideous headlight and rear fender. I should have made this thread at the very beginning but I guess it's like a continuation from my thread in the bar because some of the parts have already been ordered, received and fitted. Initial order AC10 130/90-18 rear tyre Cyclone V2 Motorcycle Alarm & Immobiliser Trail Tech Endurance II 2 Speedometer Exhaust Baffle Polisport Halo Headlight UFO rear fender Bolt kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Your most welcome ,thank you .how about a new pict when you get it done I can't waite to see what my bike would look like in street trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Managed to get a few things done so I can start crossing off the list. Cyclone V2 Motorcycle Alarm & Immobiliser There was like no space to place this anywhere. Could have stuck it behind the headlight but it was too visible so I managed to fit it snug under the seat. Was cutting it close because there is virtually no space under the seat. Works pretty well, alarm goes off and the bike turns itself off when you try to turn on the ignition without unlocking it. The remote start is also pretty sweet. Trail Tech Endurance II 2 Speedometer Was pretty easy to install. Replaced one of the front disc brake bolts with the magnetic one that was supplied. The hardest bit was drilling an 1/8" hole through the brake calliper to attach the sensor. Got the power feed to the speedo from the ignition so the backlight is permanently on only when the bike is turned on. It comes with an internal battery too so it works either way. Auto activates the display when it detects the front wheel is moving or if one of the buttons is pressed. Polisport Halo Headlight Love the look of this headlight compared to the stock one. Nothing to screw, it uses rubber mounts attached to the forks to hold it up. Apparently it's better for the light because the rubber reduces vibrations, should be good for those trail runs I guess . The stock doesn't have the "parking light", not sure if that's the correct term for it but it's the light that comes on when the ignition is on. There was no connector for that light so I had to tap into the ignition again to get a power feed. I'll need to lower the speedo down slightly because it's pretty exposed at the moment. Overall, looks pretty sleek. Exhaust Baffle Received this today and already noticed there was a problem. The bottom end of the baffle wouldn't go though because the exhaust is slightly smaller after the tip. Had to grind that circle piece of metal for it to fit. That stainless steel exhaust tip was a bit of hassle to drill into, didn't think they would be that hard to drill, might have just been my shitty drill bits though lol. To top it off, while I was screwing the end of the baffle into the tip to hold it in place, the head snapped off but it's screwed in pretty well so shouldn't be a problem. It was too late in the night so I couldn't really start the engine up but I'll give it a try tomorrow and see how it sounds. I'm still a bit sceptical about how this simple piece of metal tubing could lower the DB though. AC10 130/90-18 rear tyre The last thing I was working on today. Had to hold off this long because I was waiting for the tyre irons. Got the tyre old powdered and up when I inflated the new inner tubing, I noticed it was the wrong size (2.75/3.00 18). I should have checked when I got this from the shop, so now I'm having to wait a couple of days for a 120/90-18 (4.00/4.50). dt502001, I had a closer look at the axle and by the looks of it, it's slightly larger than the axle for the XT. I'll get you the proper measurements when I take my XT wheel off. Other things ordered Motul 5100 Engine Oil/Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid/Engine Ice coolant 9x7 road legal flexible number plate and a reflector NGK Iridium IX spark plugs Air filter/oil filter Green 12V Led light (going to try and fix up a neutral light) Banjo bolt for front brake Zefal Spy Mirrors (thanks to Ryan09 for the ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Lookin good,let me know if the mirrors actualy work or just show pieces. I figured the axel would be bigger but posibly just a bearing swap to mak the xt rims work, while you have it apart can you check the bearing OD size and ID sizes or just get the #'s off the bearings from both. And that Trail teck is so cool going to get 1 for my bike,curious how easy is it to set for lap times and use for that?Like are you going to loose time pressing buttons just to record your laps times or would it be just a quick hand off the bar and back on. That little pipe is the cheap version of a DB killer but will work well,you should probably pull it back out and fix the broken screw befor it falls out or vibrates a bigger hole in the can.It work's by making more back pressure. after seeing your baffel I'm suprised that it wouldn't pass a Db test with just some packing.I bet that it was packed and over time the PO didn't bother repacking it aft it all blew out. A wee bit of fiber glass house insulation would work just fine for that Drilling SS is a PITA drill slow with lots of lube is the best way but you got it done allready Edit ps that head light will work 10x better than the stock I put a UFO one on mine and what a difference I never bother with the day light( the extra little one you were talking about) as the light is on as soon as you start the bike any way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 WRF: ID = 22 OD = 50 XT: ID = 15 OD = 35 Surprisingly, the Endurance 2 doesn't have proper lap time functionally. One that is remotely close is the "Trip time" function which can be reset by holding the two buttons on the left. Don't let this put you off though, it seems like a great little speedo. I'll follow up on how it functions while riding. This is a pretty good review for it: http://www.redbikejohn.com/Trailtech%20Endurance%20II%20Review%202012.htm Yea, I'm going to pull the broken screw out. I ordered a left handed drill bit and a replacement bolt, should be here tomorrow. I fired up the bike yesterday and that DB killer had no effect on lowering the noise. So I guess the exhaust would need to be repacked. Would something like this be suitable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321011861483 Also noticed the front brakes are squeaking heavily. A bit of coper grease at the back of the pads should solve that problem right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I can't see why that packing wouldn't work,just don't wrap toomuch around the baffel ,don't want to choke it . The brake squeel could be from the type of pads,but I would try greasing the backing contact ares,and shamfering the edges of the pads,but don't worry too much about it they might quiten right up when wet if they do then the po put hard pads on,Great for muddy riding but hard on rotors,I put sbs on mine but can't remember wich ones LOL I know they were mid between hard and soft Dosent look like the xt wheels will work then,doubt anyone makes a 35mm od 22mm id bearing,that only leaves 13 mm for bearings and races so @ only7mm for bearings,I'll have to lookinto that Thanks for checking it out now I know what I'm looking for,,there has to a few of them xt's in the wreckers over there and would be alot cheaper than the rims I could find here. The headlight strap undoo them when your not riding the bike they only last a couple of year before they start cracking,had to buy new ones for my bike only 20 bucks but now I know not to leave them tight hopefully they will last longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Cool, ordered some packing, hopefully that'll just work . You might be right about the pads being dry, but I'll grease them up and see if that makes a difference. I also bought this brake bleeding kit, going to change the brake fluid before I take it out for a ride. What about the WR250X wheels? Are they also too expensive? The strap for the headlight is holding on using its last tooth because the shocks are pretty big. I'll maybe tie up the strap ends so they don't come undone. I guess the straps are going to be another running cost lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I like the way you've worked on thAt. No half jobs here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Well John it's not that i can't afford them just looking to do it on the cheap,as they won't get used much open paved track days and possibly a few SM races,SM racing is catching on around here but few races per year and lots of traveling to get to the races.So mostly the Sm wheels would be sitting in the garage, I'm starting to lean towards a set of cast wheels as I can get some for around 2-300 hundred,but then I will have to make spacers for the axel and a hanger bracket for the front caliper to run the 320mm rotor all doable but a PITA,was looking for a simple way. The wrx didn't sell well here so tryin to find some from the wreckers is like collecting rocking horse shit. As for the straps don't they just hook quickly together,I know about the fact that they just barely fit the massive fork streched to the limit,thats why I said un doo them when parked.The UFO ones are most likely the same. I like the way you've worked on thAt. No half jobs here. Now there's a complement,just look at his bike and the work he put into it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Haha, thanks for the complements . Just love working on this and learning all this new stuff. I don't think I would have had this much fun if I were to buy the bike brand new. I've been busy messing around with it the past few days so it's going to be a big update. Neutral LED Mod Also known as a blue wire mod for easier starting (if the wire is unplugged). I left it plug'd in because the 2003+ WRs have a safety mechanism which means that it will only start if the bike is in neutral (or if the clutch is disengaged). The sky blue wire gets grounded when in neutral so I simply patched a (black) wire into the connector. I needed to make a bracket to hold the LED and drill two holes, one to hold the LED and the other to mount the bracket to the old headlight mounting points. Since the wire coming from the neutral switch connector is grounded, the LED needs a power source to complete the circuit, which I tap'd from the daylight. Looks pretty sweet and going to make finding neutral a whole lot easier . Second attempt at lowering exhaust noise Fitting the baffle didn't work so it was time to repack it as suggested. Managed to get that broken bolt off without any damage. The old packing seemed to look pretty beat up. Used a wire brush on the tube with the holes to clean up the crap and wrap'd it in new packing. Getting it to fit back in to the exhaust was a PITA (even when held tight with some masking tape), ended up cutting some of it off but finally managed to squeeze it in and seal it tight with some silicone. However, this was a waste of time because the exhaust is still loud, I'd have been lucky to lose a DB lol. Engine oil and filter change Nothing too complicated, if you know the right place to pour the oil in . I read the manual and just assumed it was where the dipstick is. I think I filled a litre before I stopped and wondered why the bottom filler (on the engine) was still empty. I just assumed the oil would simply run down from the frame into that tank. Wrong, had to empty the frame oil and start again lol. Lesson learned, pour some into the bottom filler, start engine and leave it running for a couple of minutes, then let it cool down for a few minutes before checking with dipstick. This was after midnight and had to do it outside in the freezing cold lol. Banjo bolt for the front brake Nothing too fancy, the M10x1.25 (single) bolt fit nicely. Definitely need to bleed this now because there is some amount of slack, I think some air got in. I'm going to pull the two wires from the banjo straight to the rear brake light connection just to keep things simple. UFO rear fender Was excited to see this turn up in the post. Looks so sleek compared to the stock fender. I would have got this all fitted and wired up but one of the bolts holding on to the coolant reservoir broke off. Spent some time drilling it out and I think the thread got damaged. Need to use a slightly bigger bolt now and use a nut at the end. So this is the current state of the bike until tomorrow . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Oh crap I should have told you how to change the oil as you need to undo all 3 bolts to get all the oil out,1 at the bottom of the frame 1 on the lower eng and the 1 at the filter . Next time don't run the bike for more than 30-40 seconds then top it up, it's a ROYAL PITA to do a oil change esp if you don't know how my bad.I completly forgot to tell/mention this to you.But I guess you know how to do it now Be watching tommorow to see how my bike will look with that new fender LOL your bike that is,,, bet the bank account is taking a beating over this new toy,do i dare ask how much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwan Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Well, I'm more then impressed!!! no pissing about, straight to work on it. that neutral light is brilliant, as is the immobilizer! was the immobilizer hard to install? making the bike truly one of a kind! And everything seems to be for function as well as looking good! Well done sir! keep the updates coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 The immobiliser was a piece of piss to install, I actually spent more time looking for a suitable place to store the unit. You should have no problems installing it on your XT (if you're planning to do so). However, It's not insurance approved/listed though (only £30), so don't hope to get any reductions. Just makes a good deterrent I guess . No worries dt502001, I have a copy of the service manual and the Haynes book. I should have read the oil change instructions thoroughly lol. The bank account has indeed taken a big hit in the past few weeks but it was money I had been saving up for a new bike so I'm not too disappointed . I got the rear fender fixed and wired up. Seized bolts and other little things made it another after midnight session so I'll get the pictures and a run down of all the parts/tools I've bought posted tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwan Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 sounds like a good idea either way! Nah the XT is going to be sold as a project or something to someone that fancys a cheap fixer-upper. Reason that was asking is that i have gone out and put a deposit down on a big bad thumper (and thought it might help with the insurance, guess not lol )should be picking it up end of this week! as to what it is i'll leave you in suspense until i go and fetch it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Oh crap, I forgot your XT was done for lol! Oooh a thumper, hoping you've stuck with the family and went for a Yam . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 welchwan you went and bought the 426 didn't you? Or did you go bigger? well john waiting to see the bike all kited up in one piece .I was going to take the wr out today but woke up with a knot in my back,so I think i'll just do a beach cruise again on the bandit ,holliday here today and have to work tomorrow so i don't want to limp into work and still have lots of good riding days ahead this year. You got to be chompin at the bit to get it out and let it rip,I'm waiting to hear your comments,you can do wheelies right? cause you will be first time you crack the throttle,you still have to mto it as well right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwan Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I have left it long enough for one of you others to mention the song, since no one has i better had!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABc8ciT5QLs As for what bike, I'll keep you lot guessing but unfortunately it isn't another yammy! it'll take more then a new bike to get rid of me though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Oh jeeze welshwan, thanks for ruining my big finale track lol . So finally, the bike is done and road legal . I had to take it in to the MOT centre and since it's my first time on the bike, I was mainly worried about keeping it upright. It's so tall that I can't even tiptoe, have to slide off the seat slightly. After stalling a couple of times on the drive way, I slowly got on to the road. I was scared to open the throttle just in-case I flip the bike lol. Got to the main road and had a taste of that sweet acceleration. It's unbelievable how fast this is compared to my XT. Every time I opened the throttle, I thought I was going to lose grip of the handle bars, I kept getting pushed back. Got to the centre in one piece and was glad to pass with just a few advisories. I'll be out on it tomorrow just to get used to the beast and get some footage . dt502001, what's your method for cold and warm starting the bike? Also, what is your average trip mileage before you have to refile the tank (not including reserve)? Those Zefal mirrors are ok but not really practical, I ordered a better, designed for off-road pair. I get paranoid when I don't know what's behind me lol. Here is a run down of the money I spent on this bike so far. Michelin AC10 130/90-18 rear tyre - £49.94 DRC HC2 Adjustable Bike Stand with Damper - £59.90 Cyclone V2 Motorcycle Alarm & Immobiliser - £30.98 Trail Tech Endurance II 2 Speedometer - £69.35 Optimate Eyelet - £8.96 Exhaust Baffle - £14.88 Polisport Halo Headlight - £53.98 Bolt kit - £44.98 UFO rear fender - £45.69 Motul 5100 Engine Oil 5L - £24.95 Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid 500ml - £14.89 Engine Ice coolant 2L - £20.40 9x7 road legal flexible number plate - £6.49 Plate bolts - £3.88 HiFloFiltro Air Filter - £12.85 HiFloFiltro Oil Filter - £6.55 Motorcycle Reflector Holder + Reflector (E marked) - £13.10 NGK Iridium IX spark plugs x2 - £14.98 10M (5M red/black) wires - £2.75 Green 12V Led light - £2.00 Banjo bolt for front brake - £11.95 Haynes manual - £23.92 355mm Motorcycle Tyre Lever x2 - £25.46 Rim protector - £5.90 Tyre valve repair tool - £1.06 Vee Rubber rear tube - £7.49 Magnetic bolt trays (4x small) - £7.69 Magnetic bolt 1x big - £8.08 1500W Hot Air Gun - £13.89 12-Blade Metric and Imperial Angled Feeler Gauge - £6.60 5-Way Crimping Tool and Terminal Kit - £12.47 127pc Heat Shrink Wire Wrap Assortment - £3.80 150mm (6") Electronic Digital Vernier Caliper - £8.23 6 Litre Oil Drain Clean Pan - £3.13 Waterproof secure tax disc holder - £6.67 Sealey Vacuum Tester and Brake Bleeding Kit - £29.85 Zefal Spy Mirrors x2 - £22.38 5pc screw extractors - £1.99 4pc centre drills - £6.90 Left handed drill bit 3mm - £3.62 Left handed drill bit 4mm - £4.40 Front brake pads - £9.00 Rear brake pads - £9.49 5L petrol can - £4.99 300mm/12 inch Carbon Steel Wire Brush - £5.74 4 Stroke Exhaust Packing - £12.95 10 Pack Moulded Valved Dust Mask - £9.94 Heat Resistant Silicone - £7.59 Hose Clamp - £4.41 Syringe 3x - £4.99 500ml Brake Cleaner - £5.10 Chain lube - £9.95 MADHEAD Enduro mirrors - £23.98 Parts/Tools Total: £825.11 (Hooooooly shit, didn't think I had spent that much) MOT - £29.65 Tax - £37.00 Insurance - £320 Required Things Total: £386.65 WR250F - £1500 GRAND TOTAL: £2711.76 Well, with that out the way, here are the final pictures. That's all for now. I'll wait until my bank account regains sanity and buy the rest of the black plastics. Thanks for all the support and help so far guys, appreciated . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bippo Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Sweet, I enjoyed following this J0hn - you've done a cracking job!Take care out there while you get used to it, and I'm looking forward to the videos and other updates. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 She's a beauty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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