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Cams Shaft and con rod shells


Noise
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Morning folks,

Well Betty is truly not very well, the big ends on her front cylinder are fooked and was the cause of the tapping sound i had. and yes i know it was all due to me being a cock and not changing the oil and now im left with the bill for sorting it out. But still its a good excuse to get my hands full of dirt and grease!

So with the Con rod bouncing about every where like it shouldn't i can only asume at this point that its done some damage to the cam shaft, ive not got as far as splitting the box yet as there is the small task of taking out the clutch / gear box etc to get the motor in two, once ive done this i can see what damage has gone on with the Cams shaft.

My question is tho, dose anyone on here (UK based) know any where i can get the cam shaft re-ground and both con rods fitted with new shells?

I have found a second hand cam shaft with both rods on E-bay for 430 nuggets but if i can get mine re vamped for less then id be more happy.

Many thanks

N

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I think he means crankshaft.

How much is second user motor? also will a bigger lump if in, If so a good opportunity?

As for shells and grinding havnt had it done for years so cant help.

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Sorry yer ment crankshaft :eusa_doh:

There is a chap ive just e-mailed on Gumtree thats selling a 650 motor for 300 notes but not had any thing back yet. And sadly the 1100 motor wont fit the 650 frame, (think there has been many a topic on that subject)

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Gotta be a replacement motor it will cost more to repair it than replace. As Preload says opportunity to go up a size perhaps? Sorry to hear your baby is broke tho, still always a bright side if you look for it.

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Yer been pricing things up and it is the best option to get a new motor but they are like rocking horse poop. there are a few in the US but looking at £1000 for them. But i have just rang a chap in Southampton and left him a message as he has one for sale for £300 so fingers crossed he still has it.

Id love to stick a bigger lump in her just that im not sure if the 1100 has the same mounting points and if the frame can withstand the extra torques etc?

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Hi N

A replacement motor is probably the most cost effective way to go both in time and money, however I would still strip down the current motor and assess the damage, you never know it may turn out to be cost effective to repair and if not it will also give you various known spare parts to use to bring any replacement motor up to scratch, as you may find a replacement engine with a good crank that has casing damage or a spoiled top end.

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You can usually expect most 650 engines to be £450-odd.

The killer is how much the postage ends up. If you can collect, it's usually good. If not, sell your house!!

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You can usually expect most 650 engines to be £450-odd.

The killer is how much the postage ends up. If you can collect, it's usually good. If not, sell your house!!

My mate used a reverse bid auction site for couriers and got an engine delivered 200 miles for £60

I used them meself and paid £30 for an engine case with bits to send to Carl

http://www.uship.com/uk/

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Parts built to order... how much does THAT cost?

And if it's actually sensible, why did no-one mention these guys earlier, dammitt??!!

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Well I've gone and bought the crank and con rods from a chap in the US and A so should be back on the road in time to welcome the winter ha ha.

Question tho. Am I the only One on this forum to strip and rebuild a draggy motor? If so shall I do a start to finish guide thingy to help / give guidance to others wishing to do the same?

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Yes you should!! Others will find it useful and it will help out lots of the guys/girls on here. Always a bit of a fiddle tho trying to build an engine and take photos makes it take twice as long. Should help you think things through tho.

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Strip, no. Rebuild, yes.

We got the front cylinder apart with the whole assembly still in situ and it was NOT easy!!

The cylinder is held together by four threaded shafts. We had to get the top off, then use a pair of nuts counter-spun to undo the lower end and then slide the bottom of the cylinder up enough to wiggle it out.

Getting the bastard thing out of the cradle will make things MUCH easier, if you can manage it.

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See i had no problems at all getting the heads and cylinder off the threaded shafts, just un done the four bolts, took off the cam chain cog, took out the little ninja bolt hidden next to the spark plug, slid off the head, then took out the one small bolt on the cylinder hit it with a rubber mallet and off it came.

Ok once i start the re build i wil start a thread on how to do it. but as im no mechanic and am of the simple mind you will have to bare with me as i may come out with things like "bolt the doo dar to the thingy with a par of whatsist"

The worst thing so far to get off was the bastard nut holding the clutch cage in palce and the nut on the oil pump gear, Haynes manwell tell you to make a DIY tool to lock them in place.............me i just folded some blue roll up and jammed it in the gers and after the 3rd try bobs your fanny off it came, guess you smart arses already new that try? thought i was being clever :eusa_shifty:

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