j0hn Posted July 19, 2013 Author Share Posted July 19, 2013 Ahh, trimming the bolt isn't much of an issue. I was thinking of sticking an iridium plug on there and I'll make sure not mess up the boot, thanks for the tip. Oil level, no problem, I do like to take care of all the general maintenance quite frequently so that shouldn't be a problem at all. I'm lost when it comes to all this valve clearance maintenance though. At least I can work on this bike unlike my XT where I was in fear of losing a ride to get to places, hence why I didn't go into all the detailed work. The three grand mark is a scary price to pay though, so I'll need to learn about these valves, what they do and how to properly fix them. That's a good point about the bicycle speedos being too small. Another issues is that nearly all don't have a constant back light and usually turns off after a few seconds, not ideal imo. It's actually a toss up between a DT speedo or a Trail Tech. The cheapest DT speedo I came across was around £60 and the Trail Tech Endurance II is also in the same price range. So I think I'll be going for that instead, newer and sleeker looking. Thanks for all the help and support so far dt, it's great having another more experienced WRF owner so I'm not completely lost . I got myself a Hynes book for the WR so that should also come in handy. I'm not sure if the factory manual would have this info but I'm wondering if you know what the correct size for the banjo bolt would be? I've got a list to select from and not sure which is the right one: Single 10 x 1mm Pitch Single 10 x 1.25mm Pitch Single 7/16" x 24 UNC Double 10 x 1mm Pitch Double 10 x 1.25mm Pitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Not sure of the rules in you neck of the woods but the factory manual comes with the bike in all languages you should have got it with the bike PITA to read through but I will have a look through it to see if the banjo bolt is specified. The book says " front brake hose union bolt m10x1.25" so you would want a double to put a front switch on. torque spec is 22ft lbs or 30Nm....I take it your going to put a front brake switch on? Should be easy to run some new wires and tie them into the rear brake switch wires. As for the valves get a set of feeler gauges and get to work, you don't need any new gaskets unless the old one's leak already.I cant count how many times I've had mine off and still using the same ones that came with it. The trail tect is a nice piece if i wanted a speedo I would go that way, the magnet fit's in the brake rotor and is prety hard to knock off when dirting,but it's still a computer and you cant beat a mechanicl speedo for reliability. I'llbe watching to see how it works out esp the axel part I realy want to find out about if the xt wheels will work With how many of thoes bike were sold shouldn't be hard to find a used set to Sm my bike. paved track bike in the works 290cc kit and yeha road legal weapon good for dirt and urban assualt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 The guy didn't have the manual but I managed to get a PDF version of it online. Thanks for checking the bolt size and yea, it's to put a front brake switch on. I've ordered some feeler gauges, those angled ones that fit better. Any idea what I should with the old speedo cable when that gets replaced? I know you can buy speedo drive spacers but is it ok to cover up the end point somehow? So that I've got a backup just in case the Trail Tech gives up. I'm just surprised it costs so much for a supermoto kit, it's only rims and tyres. Will you gain much by going up to 290cc? I've always thought such a small difference wouldn't make up for what its worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 So after reading back what you were saying about the tail tidy, I just realised they are different things. If I'm thinking right, the tail tidy goes on to the rear fender rather than eliminating the fender altogether? I've just spend the last couple of days trying to figure out how that Acerbis tail tidy I posted above is suppose to fit with the current rear fender off lol. So what you were saying was to get an Acerbis rear fender or a YZ fender and then stick the Acerbis tail tidy under it? Because it would look weird trying to fit onto the original fender that has its own light. I came across this UFO rear fender which seems to be the full thing and includes the rear light. This should avoid the hassle of trying to get a tail tidy to fit a normal fender right? I'm thinking of getting the black version of this and then buying some black plastics. I found a black plastic kit done by Racetech, however, the kit on eBay says it's for 05-06 versions and another for 07-11 versions. Would it be risky to get a set, I thought the WRs kept similar frame structure throughout the years. I looked on the Acerbis site and their plastic kits starts from 2004. It seems like the 2003 model is being ignored for some reason because they don't have side panels or radiator scoops for 2003, but have it for all other years starting from 2001, wtf . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Well I hadn't seen th ufo set up but it look to me like a yz fender with a tail tidy,and yes thats what I was suggesting to do.about the 03 modle parts like plastics I though were all the same.What I can do is take some measure ments of the mounting points for the rad shrouds ,looking at your picts it looks very much the same as mine Got to get off to work now but I 'll have a better look after work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Thanks for checking. I might just buy the rear fender now and leave the brand new plastics for when I need to replace them after crashing and breaking the current ones during a session lol. No point in buying them now 'cause everyone is saying you'll end up dropping the bike. The book says " front brake hose union bolt m10x1.25" so you would want a double to put a front switch on. M10x1.25" is right but I had a look at the parts catalogue then an actual picture of the bolt and it turned out to be a single, not a double. Just in case someone wanders into this thread looking for the correct size for the banjo bolt . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 afterlooking closer at your bike you have closer to 04 body work,you have the easy access air filter with the door .the rad shoruds have a fill in piece in the center of the air hole. I though the biks went 01-03 same style the 04-06 and 07-10 but from what your saying look's like the 03 might be all by it's self,ok just had A thought so I went and checked out my fave plastic site. checked out www.decalmx.com they list 01-02 03-06 then so on but looks as I thought 04 is the same a little pricey 140 a pair USD but they are haveing a promo and mounting free decals.you can check out wwwmxplastic.com they migh be cheaper for plain plastic but I like decal works cause you get wicked stickers with your custom numbers and they have 3 different styles to choose from and all you have to do is bolt them on no pissing about tryin to mount decals. rad shrouds are only listed under the yzf but look Identical to yours fron and rear fenders 20 each and 40 for the pair of shrouds and yz side pannels are 40 bucks cheaper. I put the yz side pannels on mine and just had to trim a we bit of plastic from the back side to fit around the coolant tank can't see why you couldn't do the same,hit the local dirt track and ask some one with a yz if you can try on one just to see if it will fit.Someone will even have some old plastic kicking around you could get cheap and save yours for the steet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Thanks again for looking into all this. Decalmx has good pricing on the kits compared to the UK but I know I'll get screwed over on import tax and customs if I order if from a US site. I actually just came across a UK site called http://www.mdracingproducts.co.uk which does full and individual kits for 2003 and also in black. So I'll have a look there and see what I can get. Spending so much money on this right now, I'm going to have to slow down a bit. Added the plastics to another day, just going to focus on the rear fender right now. Need to buy a rear tyre for my XT as well, which is coming just under £100. When I start going to the tracks, should be easier to compare what fits on the bike, good idea . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Well considering you have yet to findout what you valve train is like thats a good idea,you may need to spend some cash in there and a TE rebuild can run into a g note. Typical things that will need doing yearly 1 new rings 2 replating the cylinder roughly 300 eveery 4-5 rebuilds 3 new valves,, keepers and springs This can varry DOE like can you remove and replace the valves yourself or are you going to pay someone to do it for you ,I've seen that alone come to close to a G note for a complete re fresh and quick porting,not much to clean up porting wise but every head is slightly different and some work can be done to improve the flow.Over all the factoy did a awsome job on these engines,mostly just a clean up aroung the valve guides and de buring any left over casting imperfections is all thats needed.That can be done easy with a long bit on a dremal and a few sand wheels don't let anyone tell you it needs hours of work to port it,that would be complet BS. But enough shop talk when are you going to go and try to scare the crap out of yourself and ride this thing,ya got to itching by now. Or has a late night adventure happened allready I know I would have slaped the plate on and gone for a ride by now or taken it to a track and had a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan09 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 This looks like a great fun bike, I just hope its not going to be a commuter! They dont have a key ignition either do they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0hn Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 dt502001, I think part of the problem here is that I have no idea what those listed things are doing, so fixing/checking them is considerably harder. How did you learn about the in-depth stuff? Exploring yourself? Books? Unfortunately, I haven't had a sneaky ride on it yet. I have no idea what it would feel like but I'm dying to try it out . Ryan09, it won't be a commuter. I have my trusty (knock on wood) XT for that. I plan to use it purely for off-roading unless my XT is out of action and I desperately need a ride. It doesn't have a key, just need to press a button to turn the ignition on. However, I bought a cheap alarm/immobiliser off eBay for about £30. Comes with a remote key to lock/unlock the bike. At least this way, nobody can come up, turn on and ride away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 LOL no John I leard the relly hard way my dad toughtme sice I was 6-16 then told me to fix myself. ( and if you had my dad teahing you would understand why thats the hard way LOL) Tought me alot but absoutly not good at explaing anything and only ever told you once and you better do it right I'v been turning wrenches most of my life as a mechanic. And after reading as many manuals as I have ,you would have learned alot too. So get to reading and then get dirty hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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