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DT175 Running problems


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So I have a 1981 DT175 and am having a bit of problems running was looking for some help.

I was trying to ride it recently and it would start and get into 1st go a few feet and stall.

I did some searching and have:

adjusted the petcock for optimal fuel flow

adjusted carb float for more gas

checked pilot jet and airways

put new clamps on carb and filter

blocked small hole on case to oil injector

I also have two rubber seals on each side of my carb not sure if they are supposed to be there

Now it wont idle with choke off and stalls when shifted into gear. I am running pre-mix.

From what I have read it could be:

stuck clutch plates

air leak preventing vacuum

carb float level not enough gas

Any help is appreciated

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Yeh plates wil be stuck, put front wheel against wall, ,and with lever pulled in select gear,, if that dont work ,, strip needed,

them air joints on carb look iffy, :eusa_doh: and stock air filtre would be better, to solve the running issues , :yeah:

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That filter wont help at all, you'll have more luck with a pair of frilly knickers in there.

As for stuck plates, old or contaminated oil could be cause.

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I had similar problems when I took my DT175 out of the shed after 10 years. The clutch was pretty well stuck. I gave it a good push in neutral, jumped on the bike and then put it into first gear while rolling. Unlocked itself in a few goes.

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That's 'Panties' to you stat :razz:

Yup, over here, knickers is a basketball team. No, wait...like I know anything about sports!

I'd also like to see what that petcock optimization looks like, I guess my '78 don't have that. :icon_cheesygrin:

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Well I have a pair I could throw on there. Do the frills help air flow better?

The stock is a foam filter right? I will check on ebay.

Thanks for the info

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Yup, over here, knickers is a basketball team. No, wait...like I know anything about sports!

I'd also like to see what that petcock optimization looks like, I guess my '78 don't have that. :icon_cheesygrin:

Yeah it's not the original petcock, I done got me a petcock from the future. You should get you one.

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Sorry bout that bit of a noob I am

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clutch pulled in

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should the plate seperate more with clutch pulled in?

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Yip , when lever is pulled in they should be loose. do you have a socket set, start by slacken them 5 bolts, if it turns ,slip a 2p in between them cogs, , and place every plate in order they came out, , clean the steel plates with sand paper, or the like as you install them in order, :thumb: theyre will be rusted marks on them

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I took the clutch plates out and they are not rusted together. There is oil between each of them. The oil seem to make them stick but they aren't rusty.

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Could the clutch not be releasing the plates? Is there any adjustments?

Thanks

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when you put it back together make sure you put that protrusion on each plain plate so that they are equally spaced

through 360 degrees or you'll have vibration

For adjustment...Leave the cable slack and with your hand push the operating lever on the engine forward until you meet resistance, at this point the pointer on the end of the lever should align with the raised pip on the engine casing...I

use the adjusting screw and locknut in the centre of the pressure plate to achieve this. After you've done that...then adjust the cable adjuster to give just a little free play

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I tried adjusting the clutch cable to no avail. But when I removed the plates again, I found that one of the plates is broken one one side. Could that be causing the lurch then stall problem? Also are the rubber rings between supposed to be twisted?

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No stat " there supposed to be straight, , the lurch you are on about could be rivets on clutch basket excess play. Clearance " check the leanth of both pushrods, and is there a ball in there ?

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