Kelum Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Guys, I posted here several times regarding the start problem I had with my xv125. After trying all I thought I should replace carb so bought a reconditioned carb and installed. After several cranks she started but now when I crank it runs few cycles then dies. Vacuum system doesnt work. There is no fuel tap leak nor pump leak...So all the start attempts went at PRI position. When running also I set petcock to ON position to realize engine died. So it was left at PRI..When I crank at on position, my transparent carb feed line shows that the petrol with air bubbles, non of the bubbles even shake...means there is no vacuum at all .....Does this vacuum affects sucking petrol from carb bowl into the engine..at PRI or ON or RES? Absence of vacuum is the case? Is it possible the crankcase to have a vacuum leak? I cleaned the carb very well...petrol comes to bowl, I tried IDLE adjustment nob while cranking, no luck.. Now if I go and crank, she would run several cycles and dies immediately.. Please help me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 I sealed the leaks I thought were leaks around the manifold joint with Curil, a German sealant resistant to petrol,mineral oils etc... I checked the pump by giving it a vacuum by mouth...it ejected petrol out fine.. Cranking now at PRI....doesnt seem to start still... help me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 :) :) it started, now the engine running at ON...There have been air leaks of course. But dont know how long she will start... Am thinking of removing the manifold again, add some new spacers covered with petrol-resistant Curil and seal it properly. The liquid gasket I used earlier has been dissolved by petrol and that has created leaks... But Please comment on my first post here, for my info...thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 It appears to me that the starting requires choking...is that bad...on and off it starts without choke... Joy never lasts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Why does the bike need choking? Does the carb receive inadequate air through air filter? Should I look into the frame-carb airway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old1eye Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 some bikes need choke, my dt50 wont start without choke even when its 48 degrees outside! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hello...thanks for the comment old1eye.. Bike didnt start long even with choke.. I bought a used carb and a manifold...with carb alone fitted she started a bit but not for long, then I thought the manifold had leaks so I bought a good condition used one, installed manifold today.... Bike tried to start several times but didnt hold on...I am totally lost, carb bowl receives gas...removed air filter and cranked to see if it was blocked...no it didnt start.. I found the crank breather pipe was loose...it had a crack...since it goes to the frame...would it be the cause? It appears to me the bike does not suck fuel in...but what is the cause.. I checked for sparks, they were ok...CDI unit properly fitted... All I see is the vacuum created by engine to suck fuel in is nor enough...the crank case breather should be the reason? pls help.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 http://www.graniterock.co.uk/400manuals/Miscellaneous_Carb_Questions_FAQ.pdf Every biker should go through the above PDF...Reading tomorrow, hope it will bring me solutions.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old1eye Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 it might not be your carb side, could be crap compression from a leaking gasket, or your sparks to weak or ignitions going/gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 I thought the same regarding the compression....How can I check it? The finger on plug hole method? Well the sparks...when I put a teaspoon of gas directly into carb, the bike starts... what do we have here...? carb not delivering gas into the system right? In that case the sparks should be ok...I checked the sparks they jump from wire to crank around 10mm gap...so it cant be weak... I feel like someone has toyed with floater level adjustment..like the jets do not immerse in gas in float bowl? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old1eye Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 you can try to rest the float level, there will be information on google for how to do that. as for compression testing, you realy need a testing kit to work it out properly. what colour are your spark plugs? white, black or tea brown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 you can try to rest the float level, there will be information on google for how to do that. as for compression testing, you realy need a testing kit to work it out properly. what colour are your spark plugs? white, black or tea brown? It was tea brown....I put new plugs in and cranked to notice that there was no discoloration which means there was no burning inside...plugs sparking ok so the fuel does not go in to the bore... seriously the carb does not feed the engine for some reason...as I remember, when I replace the carb, I placed old carb's floater in the new carb....I'm guessing I should swap floaters and see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old1eye Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 if you replaced the carbs, why did you put stuff from the old carbs into the new ones? surely if you had a problem with the old carbs and you bought new ones then you want to use the new ones as they are and not use anything from the old ones that didn't work?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 if you replaced the carbs, why did you put stuff from the old carbs into the new ones? surely if you had a problem with the old carbs and you bought new ones then you want to use the new ones as they are and not use anything from the old ones that didn't work?! The reason was I absolutely didnt think floater did not have something to do with the issue...and when I compared the two floaters , they looked different..I thought I should keep the old one.. Actually, both carbs are used ones...new carbs arent available here...the are on ebay.. I should put the old new arrival's floater and will update you...hope it will heal the issue.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemer328 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Hi Kelum, If I where you I would stop spending loads of money trying different bits in the hope it will cure your problem and use the cash to take the bike to a mechanic and let them sort it out, chances are it is something a mechanic will find very quickly. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hi Kelum, If I where you I would stop spending loads of money trying different bits in the hope it will cure your problem and use the cash to take the bike to a mechanic and let them sort it out, chances are it is something a mechanic will find very quickly. Good luck. Hello beemer, thanks for the advice buddy, the thing is these bikes are not very common here and unlike in your countries they practice it by experience...most work on Indian crap...I take bike to them when there is something I cannot handle only...actually engine opening, rod fitting, rocker arm fitting etc were done by a mechanic...last time also mechanic and I did the overhaul and fitting...They work on Japanese bikes but the experience is less on them..but the guy did a good job...also these guys do not have proper tools so when ripping off he damaged some parts and I had to take those parts to soldering and lathing...all by hand...even though he does a great job actually... The other problem is he wouldnt at least roughly specify a date he would fix and return...I will always have to be there for get him to work on it..if am not there he will simply leave it like that...last time I spent months of time there...that was a waste...you dont know what it feels like, there is no proper place even to sit...so as a whole, loads of issues...he's the only one working there..anyway I call him and get his advice ....sometimes he's drunk Am not disrespecting him but with all the probs above it is better I nibble with it and with advice guys here give, fix the problem... Sometimes if you take the bike to mechs, they just make it run without a lasting solution and give it to you...We know the symptoms better and at home you have enough time day and night to play... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemer328 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hi Mate, yes after reading that it sounds better to do your own work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hi Mate, yes after reading that it sounds better to do your own work I always believe that I should be an all-rounder, you know jack of all trades...It makes you least rely on others... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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