beeza geeza Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Hi All I am a little confused with the wiring of the electronic ignition on a 1993 SR125 Book shows:- 4 wires going to the pulser coils, 2 to each, (are both pulser coils for timing?) 1 wire going to the Ignition coil, as expected 3 wires just going between the electronic ignition to the sidestand relay The other wire on the sidestand relay going to the sidestand, neutral, and clutch switches Why 3 wires between the two, is this a diagram mistake? and lastly (maybe not) what actually powers the CDI Hope you can help Ade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted May 30, 2013 Moderator Share Posted May 30, 2013 n Hi All I am a little confused with the wiring of the electronic ignition on a 1993 SR125 Book shows:- 4 wires going to the pulser coils, 2 to each, (are both pulser coils for timing?) 1 wire going to the Ignition coil, as expected 3 wires just going between the electronic ignition to the sidestand relay The other wire on the sidestand relay going to the sidestand, neutral, and clutch switches Why 3 wires between the two, is this a diagram mistake? and lastly (maybe not) what actually powers the CDI Hope you can help Ade i'm not familiar with the bike ade, nor do I have a wiring diagram to refer to However, the bike is a single cylinder so it will only have one pulser coil...the other coil being the 'source coil'. is there a brown wire to the CDI? brown is often the switched live on these older bikes but not sure about yours the collection of wires to the stand, clutch and neutral will take care of the safety interlocks, the ignition will be cut if put in gear with the stand down...maybe not if the clutch is pulled but I dunno about that black wires are chassis or -ve and perhaps each of the engine coils have a black connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza geeza Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Hi again All I think I should share a little more information about the fault/s I am having Original Fault - Bike would start after a lot of effort sounded awful, then usually ran for a while without much power then dies So far found that tappet gaps were non existent, in fact probably pushing valves slightly open, now adjusted Cam chain clattering around, never been adjusted, now adjusted Carb and jets dirty, mixture screw out 5 1/2 turns instead of 1 to 1 1/2, float touching top of chamber, all now cleaned, jets are correct, mixture and float adjusted Leak in air hose from carb to engine due to wrong size hose, now corrected also HT lead, plug and plugcap changed, Petrol tap filter was clean, air filter cleaned, oil changed, brakes done etc etc etc Fault now - Has trouble starting but when it does it sound great, Once started I can turn it off and it will normally start straight away easily without even warming up, but the next day same symptons Some times it will just cut out while ticking over and the refuse to start again (Petrol fine) Spark did look very weak when the bike was not working, other days spark looks fine (rotating 4 new spark plugs) Purchased second hand coil and fitted Still the same problem (I could of course be unlucky and bought a coil with the same fault) New battery fitted today (though I did not think this was the fault) Started after not to much trouble, went out for a ride, sounded lovely up to 50mph with no problems Got home turned corner 1st gear it died and has not started again since!! Spark again does look a little weak Can Electronic ignition affect the spark density? in theory it just shorts the coil to earth at the correct moment and the coil defines the power of the spark. Help Appreciated, Ade (Next step tomorrow is to measure the Pulser and Source coil resistance, I deduce from the last reply the Source Coil is the power for the CDI) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted May 30, 2013 Moderator Share Posted May 30, 2013 yeah check the ohms value of the source coil and pulser coil and compare them to spec usually + - 10% specs in the workshop manual and sometimes in the parts book under 'Service Data' also the ignition coil (HT coil) can be checked against spec in the same way Yes the source coil is power and the pulse coil is trigger for the ignition is the HT cap to HT lead connection good? I'd try a new cap and cut 10mm from the end of the lead and re-make that connection...caps are usually 5k ohm but again that will be in the manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeza geeza Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Just an update to my wiring question incase anybody need the info in the future "3 wires just going between the electronic ignition to the sidestand relay" My 1982 to 1996 Haynes Manual wiring diagram for the 1991 onwards models is WRONG Real wiring - One of the wires goes to the On/Kill switch, one to Earth and the third does go to the sidestand relay Now seems a lot more logical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts