Calum122 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Cheers lads. It's an expensive hobby but am getting really close to finishing that TZR engine. Can't wait to run it in and open her up fully. I'm not expecting power like my YZ or my RS just interested in seeing what those TZR's can actually achieve. There's a lot of nonesense out there and want to know for myself. Will be and have been doing test videos for comparisons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Posted Today, 04:11 PM Something I'm going to do down the line. After spending a few hours today scoping it out it's definitely doable but best results will be if I work from the ground up. So I'm going to wait until I don't ride the bike everyday. And when the bike has been powdercoated I'll look to have some brackets made up and work on it from there. Whether or not these radiators are suitable or not is again another question. Sorry for the repost that was horribly distorted! I'm not quite sure why people keep telling me this. I appreciate not everybody spends a huge amount of time reading my post. It's mainly for my own satisfaction that I both posting. But I'll reiterate my point. I'm using a TZR125R Belgarda engine from which the radiator is this! TZR Radiator Standard DTR radiator: That standard DTR radiator is much longer than the new radiators I've bought. But they are thinner. Where as the TZR radiator is much wider and still relatively tall. **Edited to correct skew** Edited January 26, 2014 by Calum122 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I would think they would be over kill the thermostat would be getting quite the workout trying to keep the eng at temp with the typical temp you live in. .Judging by the size in the pictuers I would think just the extra surface area and volume of 1 of thoes rads would be more than enough to control any extra heat from the hoped up motor. My wr250 dosent have that much rad surface/volume Or just a puller type 12v fan for stop and go traffic if she want to run hot at stop lights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Something I'm going to do down the line. After spending a few hours today scoping it out it's definitely doable but best results will be if I work from the ground up. So I'm going to wait until I don't ride the bike everyday. And when the bike has been powdercoated I'll look to have some brackets made up and work on it from there. Whether or not these radiators are suitable or not is again another question. Sorry for the repost that was horribly distorted! I'm not quite sure why people keep telling me this. I appreciate not everybody spends a huge amount of time reading my post. It's mainly for my own satisfaction that I both posting. But I'll reiterate my point. I'm using a TZR125R Belgarda engine from which the radiator is this! Standard DTR radiator: That standard DTR radiator is much longer than the new radiators I've bought. But they are thinner. Where as the TZR radiator is much wider and still relatively tall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 TZR Radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Most likey it because a I.C.E is realy just a heat exchanger reduce the thermo efficency and you reduce the finnal output. In the stock tz frame with body work the eng would be running hotter,and in the location of the rad,negitave air perssure behind the front wheel and it just dosen't flow as much air to cool the eng. Factor in the location and the huge air scoopps that you use in the dt and the size of the rad can easly be made smaller with the same efficency. In the picture the new rads look thicker. Do you have the tz rad to see how much volume it holds to be able to compare to the dt rad? I would be more inclined to try the stock dt rad and see how well it works first and then see what more is needed if anything. If a old 490 yz could run with just some finns hanging on the side of the motor then how much cooling do you realy need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Clearly you sound knowledgable. So I appreciate the comment. Really I do. I don't. I have a Aprilia RS125 which has about the same power as a TZR125R perhaps more. And that uses a similar radiator which again is huge. From Graham Bell's tuning book he says for every 5 degrees lower you run your engine at. Expect 1% power gain. My main concern is that whilst yes it may be okay when pottering aroundbut how about prolonged exposure to high RPM. I didn't just spend all this money for it to go bang after a couple of uses. I want it to last at least a year before it needs a rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Plus there is the fact that there is the YZ125 with two rads and that does alright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 The reason why the 2 bikes you mentioned have such big rads is because of the negative air pressure/s enviroment they live in. co efficent drag dictates ,,they must be located where they are, you on the other hand are pushing a bilboard down the road in tearms of drag co. efficenty ,,so alot smaller rad will do the job is all I am sain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 Okie Dokie. So it's a bit pointless? Granted that sums up my project thread to be fair. But let's say I decide to do it anyway. Are there any drawbacks? Is too much cooling really an issue. I mean my bike reaches 90 degrees in the summer! 50 degrees in the winter. But 90 degrees is a bit hot don't you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Are you not running a t stat cause your bike should run at the same temp summer or winter,granted it will take longer in the winter to come up to full temp. If you talking in C not F then 90 is fine 50 is to cold I have discused this before but lets talk more about over cooling, the piston gets very little effect of cooling from the rads,the cylinder however gets a great effect ,every time the t stat opens it should stay open to get a even/consistant flow if the rads can cool the coolant down faster than the motor can heat it then you run the risk of cold seizure ( commonly refered to 4 corner ) the cylinder litteraly rappidly cools and grabs the piston,old air cooled bikes had this problem when run hot into a cold water stream/river. The termostat is opend and closed by a wax pellet and dose not change temp as fast as the coolant to close when nessary so with to big of a cooling system it can flow cold coolant into a hot motor then trap it.The piston at the same time is not changing temp. You have no options on what temp t stat you can run so you need to match the cooling capisity to the amount needed or your eng will be running hot cold hot cold.You can drill holes in a t stat to compensate but not advisable. Most if not all cooling systems now are built to just meet the needs under normal driving and backed up with a temp controled elec. fan to compensate when ideling for the lack of air flow.Many systems now incorporate a method to close off the cooling system at high speeds when the air flow exceeds the demand for 2 reasons 1 decreased drag and 2 to keep the eng at a optimum operating temp.and not cycle the t stat. Ask anyone over the age of say 45 and they will tell you about changing t stats 2x a year 1 for summer 185F and 1 for winter 195f in there 60's 70'80's cars. You mentioned a yz 125 having 2 rads well thats fine for a bike intended to be run at 100% all the time crusing around on a yz125 it would be running to cold. So what I am sayin is try to match need to ability keeping it from over heating but at a optium temp .Royal purple claims there coolant to drop temp by 10% so that might be all you need. Other co's make simmilar claims Here is a debate about temp and how to coold wears a eng fasterhttp://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?84106-Coolant-Temperature-on-2-strokes no conclusive answers but more to think about. Good luck with the project I too have built things just cause I could,but going into unknow teritory is alway a gamble,there was another member who was doing the same thing with a belga motor in a dt NEV i think mabey try and pick his mind you 2 might be facing the same challenges/decisions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Very informative and I will take it on board. Read it all and will have a mooch around the web. I've seen these coolants but thoight they sounded a bit mickey mouse. Yeah me and NEV are moderators on the DT forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Got programmable ignition sorted now. Very pleased with it. Very easy to use and works a treat. With the right jetting it'll be awesome. http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=SeGT8DWe8gU&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DSeGT8DWe8gU%26feature%3Dyoutube_gdata_player Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finnerz89 Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Seems to be shifting nicely mate, and sounds sweet too! Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 The ignition has made a nice change from standard. Just waiting on Yamaha to finish with my cylinder. All i wanted was a rebore and they've had it for well over a month waiting on wossner for a piston :/ As soon as that's done though I can finish off the tzr project and finally get that on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliks Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Man you guys are champions at riding on wet roads over there eh? lol Bike sounds great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 I'm a useless rider I'm afraid. My brother said I should let him do the test rides as he's much better. Thank you for the kind words though. Bike has become a big hobby so unfortunately I take it personally when it's slated lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgen Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Sounds a lot fitter Calum, keep up the good work and on the cooling front it does make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 My new Exhaust pipe. Hand made in Stainless Steel. Will be interesting to see the difference? If any. I'm slightly worried it might be less than the DEP system. But will GoPro it if anyone is interested... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts