Cylindric Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Doesn't solve the problem of wiring it in somewhere though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Thought I had already done that!! Have a poke around in side the headlight and find the wires you need there, you could also look at the bottom/side of the ign switch to see where the wires go. Got to be your best bet really as the wire run will be much shorter if you use something near the headlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cylindric Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Oh yeah, that's fine, its just the lighter sockets seemed to be offered up as solutions. Headlight power could be perfect - saves me routing through the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Same as Ken I have just ordered an adapter from good old ebay at £1.44 for my cig lighter which I think has saved me about £17 on the price of a dedicated USB only adapter if you factor in the cost of the original adapter plus the new bit. Thanks Ken would never have thought of that without your input No worries pal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cylindric Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 All done! I couldn't find anywhere particularly easy to get to the headlight power, at least not without removing a lot of fairing, so I went for the back light instead. The wiring out of the lights and fuses etc is very compact, so I had to chase the cable back until I could find enough slack to attach my charger's lead. I removed the pillion grab-rails and the little bit of fairing on the right-hand-side and found a rubber flange where the tail-light (and other stuff) connects into the larger loom. That's the squished rubber thing in the bottom-middle of the image: I stripped back a bit of the plastic covering the three wires to the tail-light (ground, 'always on' power and 'brake light' power) and used a clip that came with the USB adapter to piggy-back onto the middle 'always on' wire: Seems to work okay, and as I mounted it to the bracket that holds the upper front fairing to the body, it's completely hidden, but still quite easily accessible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild foamy Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Looking good there buddy that piggy-back connection looks shite imho, i dont ever use them any more, reqired the towbar on my car as the previous owner had installed it using them, i cut the wires and solder them back together with the towbar wire aswell, then cover it in heatshrink to make sure its secure, but im just picky tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cylindric Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 I was scared of soldering more than I needed to - my new garage doesn't have power (yet) so was limited in tooling a bit. I luckily found a truly shite little gas-powered soldering iron I bought from Maplin years ago, and I used that to extend the lead from the adapter, but the way it was spluttering and spewing gas flame about the place I didn't want to use it more than absolutely necessary Next time I'm near the garage with the car I'll run a real iron from the inverter I have. Or park the bike nearer the house when it's not pissing it down outside. Really need to sort out some power options for the garage, unfortunately it's not attached to the house, and the neighbours probably wouldn't like a 150m extension lead trailing around the neighbourhood. Something like this 12-240V Power Station with JumpStart and Inverter from Amazon should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Well done mate looks like a good job, long as your happy with it and it does what you want it to do no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedshop Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Both the USB and the cigarette kits we sell have a clamp to mount to the bars. If you remove this you're left with a flat plate with 4 holes, which makes mounting it in alternate locations very easy Those connectors are shite, we recommend a ring tongue or spade terminal crimped (as soldering causes the wires to break at the point where the solder was drawn up the wire stops) and come off the battery or starter relay. Some bikes have an easy to get to switched live here and some have the main power junction here as well, so there's a choice. Often there is a blank terminal and just adding an extra terminal into the connector block is possible on some bikes. Its live all time so a separate fuse is needed and it means you don't need the bike's ignition on to run power. If you hook up to the switched live you still need a fuse but the bike's fuses will protect the added circuit. We can supply proper weather sealed piggy back connectors for anyone wanting to splice in the the switched live elswhere, but they are fairly expensive compared to the horrid car type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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