I forgot to attach pictures of the lower chain cover:



Taking off fuel c.o.c.k assembly from the fuel tank: (sorry but the annoying automated pakwheel language guard was replacing c.o.c.k with *** . So I had to put dots in between)



Another view:



The tank itself was relatively very easy to dismount:



Spiders living in the tank LOL :





With the tank and seat off this is how the bike frame looks like. Amazingly there was no visual or rust damage at all on the bike frame. The frame appeared to be in a very good health:

In general all over the bike the wiring appears to be totally messed up. It is going to be a nightmare sorting this out:



Opening up right engine cover and draining the oil. Impact screw driver is your friend:



Loads of oil came out, given the fact that it is 10 years old. Amazing !



Taking out the carburettor was an absolute nightmare. The rubber pipes providing fuel were as hard as steel which unfortunately had to cut using a sharp knife. As you can see some idiot mechanic had already taken +ve steps towards the destruction of the carb. I don't know what the hell was he thinking at the time:



Back side:

Slacken off clutch cable adjuster locknut to gain better access to the oil pump. Then take out the oil pump as well:



Detaching gear shift pedal was a nightmare. In order to have better access I had to remove the front footrest assembly. Furthermore the gear change pedal was badly jammed into its splined shaft. I had to strike the spline shaft with quite a bit of force to get the pedal out. In short it was a decent amount of work. As you can probably see the crankcase cover is also damaged:



Engine underside:

Taking off crankcase cover and exposing the rotor/generator assembly:



Closer look at the crankcase cover. It is rusted and fairly damaged from one side:

Rotor assembly closeup. The rotor wheel also has huge amounts of rust on it:



View of the drive sprocket. Some wise zen-master mechanic has already tried to mess it up real bad. You can see the damages on the main nut. Also the area surrounding the gear change spline shaft is full of rust and gunk:



Air filter, or what's left of it lol:



Another view of the electrical mess:

This is it for now. As I mentioned earlier the updates are probably going to be slow because I am feeling lazy most of the time. Currently I am facing the challenge of detaching exhaust pipe from the cylinder. It appears that it is pretty much jammed in due to rust. I applied WD40 and used C-spanner to open the sleeve nut but totally failed.

2nd challenge I am facing is that the rear breaks appear to be totally malfunctioning. So taking off the drive sprocket is proving to be extremely difficult. As I try to loosen it up the rear wheel starts to spin like crazy. I can't put it in gear because 1) the gear change pedal is off, and 2) gears appeared to be jammed at the very beginning.




3rd challenge: The rotor wheel starts to spin like crazy as soon as I try to take off the big nut in the middle of the wheel:

Any ideas ?

3rd challenge: The rotor wheel starts to spin like crazy as soon as I try to take off the big nut in the middle of the wheel:

Any ideas ?

This is what I use, It's a chain filter wrench, I place some strips of fabric backed rubber cut from industrial type gloves under the chain for extra grip...it works very well

This week's updates (5-May-2013)

Hi guys, hope all of you are doing great. This weekend I spent a couple of hours on the bike (3-4 hrs max). Succeeded in detaching the engine from frame. Attached pictures show the progress. Enjoy !!!

Continuing from previous week, still disassembling the bike.

Finally got the exhaust pipe out, was pretty tough job. In this case C-spanner was not effective at all. Too much rust and gunk, the sleeve nut was totally jammed. I then used pipe wrench which did the job:



It seems that the drive sprocket washer had witnessed mechanic abuse (molestation or rape might be appropriate words). I had to use hammer and a minus head screwdriver to chisel my way into the washer. This made enough clearance for the socket spanner to comfortably sit on the nut:



Closeup view:

Getting the drive sprocket off the frame. Attempt 1:

Since the bike was in neutral and I was unable to put it in a gear (maybe broken gears, who knows). I tried to jam the wheels with the help of wooden hammer shaft. Bad idea, i know. This method can potentially damage the rims. Another mistake I made that I removed the rear shocks way earlier. Rear wheel assembly proved pretty hard to control.



Attempt 2: The correct one. Press the breaks real hard . Furthermore use a long pipe for leverage and the sprocket nut will come off quite easily:

Opening up flywheel nut:



Detaching the head. The outside appears to be covered in fungus:



Cylinder assembly:



Another view:

Another look at the head:



Zooming in:



Further zoom. The surface appears to be covered with salt, fungus and other gunky stuff.

Removing cylinder:



Cylinder closeup. We will take a look at it in great detail in near future.




Moving on to detach the engine from the frame. Before loosening up the main engine assembly bolts, it is a good idea to provide some support from underneath:



Cool, air filter assembly is off:

Detached rear wheel assembly. It didn't go off without a fight:



Finally detached the engine. To my surprise engine was not that heavy as I thought it would be:



Closer look:



View from the other side:



Zooming in on the rotor wheel:



Drive shaft closeup:

Rear break pedal assembly. Closer look at the joint:



Bit zoom:



Further zoom. The amount of mud and gunk is surprising:

Got a bunch of new tools. Forgot to show off earlier:

Feeler gauge, 0.05 mm to 1mm. Vice grip plier. I don't know what these are called: maybe magnet holder and magnet extractor?

Finally got the engine separated from the bike frame. Putting the engine on a table to make a comfortable work environment.

No matter how hard I tried, I was unable to get this annoying little kick assembly off the engine:



Closeup of the piston area:



Another closeup. This is the space where the carb is placed. The rubber tubings have turned into like metal pipes after fighting the natural elements for 10 long years. I had to cut these using a very sharp knife or cutter:



Closeup. Check out the deformed screws:

Closer look at the oil pump. Check out the deformed screw heads. Thank God I have my trusty impact screw driver along with me.



Somewhere on top of the right side engine case. I wonder what kind of screw driver can open this one (except for impact driver)

Engine on the table.

Side note: I really love that reflected reddish light. Cool photographic effect for free !!!



Closer view of the rotor wheel. You can see the screws inside the wheel and how deformed they are. All I can witness is mechanic abuse EVERYWHERE !!! My advice: Don't open up your bike yourself if you want to avoid heart attacks...



Gear shaft and drive shaft area:



Closing in. Again, deformed screws. Screws don't melt like this in a harsh environment. This is the work of our awesome mechanics:



Further zoom. Loads of gunk and stuff inside as well:

Let's view the piston in a little bit detail. We will come back to this in later stages of the restoration:

Remember the engine on table:



Let's do some closeups of the piston area. This is how the piston looks like from close. The amount of carbon is HUGE.



REALLY zoomed in piston. THis pic is not clear (I REALLY need to get a decent camera). You can see the carbon deposits on the top side and the first ring: