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Clutch slipping - SR125


AndrewElvisFan
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Help please! I'm not sure what is going to be best to start with. I know I will need a new gasket, but after that I don't know why else I may need. Basically the clutch is slipping through all the gears, even 1st and 2nd, suddenly 'kicking in' as if the gear wasn't quite engaging. I've looked on eBay and there seems to be several different options - clutch plate kit ranging through to complete assembly. Can anyone tell me what is going to be best for a relative novice mechanic (previous experience on lawn mowers only) to try first? Other than a garage that is!!

Cheers,

Andrew

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Cheers but that was the first thing I checked and it is slack enough. If anything the lever has a little too much play! Although thinking about it I'm not sure if it is releasing fully each time. I'll check the return spring on top of the gear box.

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andy, screw adjuster on clutch lever right in so its slack, follow your clutch cable down to where it connects to motor casing, usually there is a rubber or plastic disc on the face of that casing, praise that off with a screwdriver inside you will see nut with a screw in the center. hold screw and loosen nut about 1 turn then turn screw clockwise until you feel resistance then turn back half a turn, hold screw while you retighten nut, now re adjust cable on clutch lever.

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If you have been using it like that the clutch may well be done now anyway.

If you do buy one get the metal or "plain" plates too. If its been slipping that bad they will have warped and your new clutch wont last long.

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If you have been using it like that the clutch may well be done now anyway.

If you do buy one get the metal or "plain" plates too. If its been slipping that bad they will have warped and your new clutch wont last long.

Bugger!!

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I have noticed that she goes into gear properly when I push the clutch lever back. Also when she's on the centre stand in 1st, before I release the lever, the rear wheel will turn. Is this normal? Sorry, I've been on a twist and go for 6 years!!

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Just a thought, have you changed the oil lately and did you use MOTORCYLE oil? Cos if you put car oil in your bike the clutch will slip due to the additives in car oil. As I say just a thought!! :jossun:

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yes andy, that's normal especially when cold, co's oil is thicker. someone else was asking about that on here last week

let us know how you get on, if you need to fit new clutch, have a look on youtube "motorbike clutch" for how to do it

it will be easier to understand wacthing it, if your still not sure see if there's any other YOC members local who can help?

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Just a thought, have you changed the oil lately and did you use MOTORCYLE oil? Cos if you put car oil in your bike the clutch will slip due to the additives in car oil. As I say just a thought!! :jossun:

I only picked her up a month ago, just had service inc oil change. I assume that the garage used the correct oil. Think I'll be getting a Haynes manual though so won't need to rely on trusting a garage!

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Any ideas on a quick fix on filling a 3mm hole in th exhaust? On the can just past the weld to the main pipe, just under the footrest. I've tried exhaust gum which works for a short while, but the next day moisture has built up and breaks this down as it forces out through the hole

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Any ideas on a quick fix on filling a 3mm hole in th exhaust? On the can just past the weld to the main pipe, just under the footrest. I've tried exhaust gum which works for a short while, but the next day moisture has built up and breaks this down as it forces out through the hole

If it's the hole on the bottom of the pipe it's meant to be there to drain condensation.

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If it's the hole on the bottom of the pipe it's meant to be there to drain condensation.

I did wonder as it is a perfect hole! Should I be getting exhaust gases coming through it or does that point to an internal issue? Tomorrow I'll remove all the filler from it!!

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It is a new cable so good condition. Cable oiler? I've just been using 2 in 1 and letting that drip down inside the casing - is that good enough?

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its second best, if find 3 in 1 is better than 2 in1. " in 1 is definititely missing something ;)

Theres definitely something amiss isnt there, make sure there isnt any tight bends in the cable...that the route is the easiest possible

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its second best, if find 3 in 1 is better than 2 in1. " in 1 is definititely missing something ;)

Theres definitely something amiss isnt there, make sure there isnt any tight bends in the cable...that the route is the easiest possible

ha ha

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Don't assume anything about 'services' done by the supplying dealer. Have you checked the OIL LEVEL? unlike a car the clutch rides in a bath of oil, if the oil level is low it will make the bike (a) have a clutch that feels awful, juddery, slipping etc (B) make the engine torque break the clutch, if the low oil level doesn't break the engine or gearbox first. Check this before you drop the oil to get at the clutch, as parts are expensive, a top up of oil is a few quid.

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Don't assume anything about 'services' done by the supplying dealer. Have you checked the OIL LEVEL? unlike a car the clutch rides in a bath of oil, if the oil level is low it will make the bike (a) have a clutch that feels awful, juddery, slipping etc (B) make the engine torque break the clutch, if the low oil level doesn't break the engine or gearbox first. Check this before you drop the oil to get at the clutch, as parts are expensive, a top up of oil is a few quid.

Thanks for that. Level is fine on flat ground. I've just dipped into the oil with a clean screwdriver and the oil feels a lot thicker between my fingers than car oil so I'm fairly confident it's the right type! Think its new parts for me :(

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