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Just been given yes given an XV125.


Iceni
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Had similar issues when I first got my xv125 (had been in storage for 5 years). Would stall when knocked into gear. Managed to free it up in the same way, got engine hot and the plates unstuck.

When I store the bike now I tie back the clutch leaver with a zip tie or string, this takes the pressure off the plates so they shouldn't stick back together.

I too was tempted to swap the clutch out as it kept sticking, but since using this method its been great.

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It's wet today :(

I've started to look into security.

Picked up an Oxford Hardcore XL 1.5M from halfords. Should work as my main lock for the bike at home. I still need to pick up or make a sutable ground anchor.

I'm also thinking about fitting a second hidden fuel tap. There is space on the fuel pump on the drivers side to do this.

There was also a thought about rewiring the kickstand and cut out switch. If I make the cutout to the kickstand (up for on). And then rewire the kickstand to the cutout off for up it should confuse people if they try to drive it away.

Basically you would need the kickstand up, and the cutout in the off positions to ride.

The kickstand been down would be an unstartable machine.

The Cutout on run would be a machine that stalls every time you pop it in gear.

I'm going to investigate this sort of security in more detail later.

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Yeah I tried that one already. Thinking it might just be enough to pop the plates appart. I think it's just a case of popping the clutch cover off and giving it a tap. The parts are pretty cheap to replace it. Less than £30 so i'm not going to loose out even if it's all bound up and needs scraping appart.

ATM even with the clutch in when you pop it into gear the bike lurches and stalls instantly. If the plates are not at fault part of the linkage inside might have a problem so i need to inspect it even if it suddelnly pops free. It's just not worth the hassle of it going pop when I'm out on it. I'd rather have 100% knowelege of what the problem is and know it's fixed.

I also don't know how the clutch sperates. I would assume it's an arm that seperates the plates towards your foot. Then upon relese the plate come back into contact.

I have found the XV125s manual on the yamaha homepage. While not a haynes manual it has enough information for me to be able to forumlate a work plan for the bike and a service schedule.

Odd as it might sound it's not the first gift with an engine I've recived! I got a Honda gx160 based kart given from a mate for doing their mechanic work without pay for 2 years, The same guy also gave me my first car, a fiesta MK1, then he tried to give me a honda H100. I didn't want that bike as I already had the car by that point! This XV125 is from a differnt person, I have however done him a lot of favors. Stop your perverted minds right away.. :D

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Yeah I tried that one already. Thinking it might just be enough to pop the plates appart. I think it's just a case of popping the clutch cover off and giving it a tap. The parts are pretty cheap to replace it. Less than £30 so i'm not going to loose out even if it's all bound up and needs scraping appart.

ATM even with the clutch in when you pop it into gear the bike lurches and stalls instantly. If the plates are not at fault part of the linkage inside might have a problem so i need to inspect it even if it suddelnly pops free. It's just not worth the hassle of it going pop when I'm out on it. I'd rather have 100% knowelege of what the problem is and know it's fixed.

I also don't know how the clutch sperates. I would assume it's an arm that seperates the plates towards your foot. Then upon relese the plate come back into contact.

I have found the XV125s manual on the yamaha homepage. While not a haynes manual it has enough information for me to be able to forumlate a work plan for the bike and a service schedule.

Odd as it might sound it's not the first gift with an engine I've recived! I got a Honda gx160 based kart given from a mate for doing their mechanic work without pay for 2 years, The same guy also gave me my first car, a fiesta MK1, then he tried to give me a honda H100. I didn't want that bike as I already had the car by that point! This XV125 is from a differnt person, I have however done him a lot of favors. Stop your perverted minds right away.. :D

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Well I appear to have run into another problem.

2nd gear and up will not engage. 1st and neutral are fine.

I'm doing the standard work arround stuff atm.

I'll reset the gear change spline, check the clutch cable ect

I've dropped the oil and taken the clutch cover off, The clutch has been stripped and cleaned.

The next part of the work arround is to see if I can make it shift. I suspect it's minor corrosion on either the control rods and forks, Or the splines for the sliding gears.

I'm going the easy route first. I've picked up a nylon dowel and will attemps to shock the control rods. If that free's second I'll class it as work complete after a bottom end flush.

If the shock method fails it looks like i have to strip the engine to get to the splines. I may attempt a turnover with some thin oil. 0w30 or something similar to see if it can penetrate and free the parts.

The good news is all the gears both plastic and metal inside the clutch plate cover look brand new. No wear on any bearings, and no metal in the oil.

Whilst I'm doing this work I'm going to use a silacone gasket for the clutch plate cover. Once it's working I'll replace the gasket with the correct parts.

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Yeah I got a friend to come over and take the bike to a local off road path. 1st is not a problem.

When you try to select 2nd it'll just drop to neutral. As you push past the neutral position it feels springy. I suspect that is more the foot pedal flexing than movement in the gearbox.

When we brough the bike back we put it on blocks to see if something was out of place. Even on blocks we couldn't get 2nd.

He sugested it might be the clutch thats why we stripped it. When we stripped the friction plates out it was noted that the plates had the signs of been dry for a little time. There was rust in spots that I removed with wet and dry paper. I suspect the same is probably true inside the gearbox. If it frees up then I think it'll be fine. The rust was not flakey, It was hard surface rust, With no real penetration. I suspect if it can be free'd then any rust that gets into the oil will be picked up by the filter. It's going to need a couple of oil changes now I think just to be sure I'm running a clean engine.

I'm hoping that the control rods are visable from the clutch housing. If they are then this nylon punch will be tapped a little on the rod as we try and drop it in second gear. It's either going to bind into 2nd, and require a stripdown. Or work. We should be able to get the correct control rod since 1st and second are opposite's on the same spline. I'm also hoping that 1st is the outer race and not the inner one. If 1st is the outer race then tapping into it should free it. If it's the outer one then I'll have to work somethign else out. It's been a few years since I stripped an engine and without a dedacated Haynes I'll be working on half the information I need with the XV 535 manual.

I can't comment on 3rd 4th or 5th yet :D One at a time :D

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Yip , look at the end of selector drum, the pawl [ hooked claw] should return and grab drum -ready for 2nd gear, :eusa_think:

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Might need a rethink then :D

I'll strip out the clutch again this week. And have a good look at the linkages. I'm sure I'll be able to try something. I'll make sure the pawl is working. I didn't check that it was so it's worth a very close look :D

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Right I've been back into it. I think it's a bit of user error on my part about the gears.

With the cover off and the engine off I can get the shift lever to go 1st or neurtal. If i try to go past neutral Up to 2nd then the Pawl extends to full extension. However the Cam follower holds neutral. I can see that it's going to full extension as the pawl linkage only has a range of movement limited by a hold cut inside a guide.

I'm wondering if the gearbox is designed with beginners in mind and will not go to 2nd without enough drive speed through the box.

I then made sure the selector drum was working, By spinning the Clutch houseing, And operating the Pawl with a screwdriver, all the gears will drop in with no force, and they all engage.

Now I have a problem.

I can take the bike back to the off road path, Go faster and see if I can get all the gears. This means me walking the bike out, And walking back. The problem been I'm less than confident. Added to that I haven't done my CBT yet.

Or I can leave it for the time been, Get the CBT done, then have to deal with the problem as i take the bike to get MOT'd....

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you should be able to put the bike on blocks and change gear that way. even with the engine turned off (but neutral light on) you should be able to flick it into 2nd from neutral.

just out of interest how far up are you moving ur foot? i ask as i found the link between the foot lever and engine was set a bit high for me , which increases travel to the point where it struggles to engage when going up the gears, try adjusting it (might help), also have you checked the biting point on the clutch? if its set too high then getting into gear becomes a problem, and one more thing check that the drive chain isnt too tight, this can also make it hard to shift gear.

how dose it feel when you put it into gear? is it smooth or dose it clunk or rattle?

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I just stripped it this afternoon,

Took off the clutch down to the spline, and the oil pump gearing so i could get into the gear selector.

Turns out this bike was incorrectly put back together at some point. Part of the selector mechanism wasn't lined up dot to dot. I moved it over 1 tooth and it now selects all gears... so simple. LOL.

The gear selector is not like the xv535 or xv1100 setups.

On the selector arm you have the pawl, spring and quatergear. It also has an extended shaft with the oil pump gear sitting on the end.

The quater gear links to the cam follower and arrestor on the LHS of the gear drum.

The Quater gears line up dot to dot, thats where the problem was.

The effect on the pawl was to place it lower than it should have been on the drum. Causing it to miss the upshift nubbin. I'm not sure why neurtal was still working TBF :D

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I'm not sure.

As far as i know the block has never been stripped so I don't think it's a bad mechanic. Perhaps it happened in the drop. The shift might have been landed on causing it to jump a tooth.

The odd thing is I got the impression the previous owner had ridden the bike after the drop. I know the drop happened before I had even met him and that means if that is the case then it's been sat unused for over 8 years, with only a minor fault. Some people must have money to burn to leave a simple problem that long!

I've also found a few more issues with the bike. The main one been a small crack forming in the rubber inlet manifold. I want to strip the carb at some point as well so I think i will replace this part with the strip down. I'm not sure if i can remove the carb without removing the tank. I'll so some digging and find out. If i can it should be a fairly easy job. I'll clean the jets, do the float tank then rebuild it to factory standards. I may also pick up a larger jet kit at some point so i need to know what the carb is like to remove. I think the tappets want doing as well so there is plenty to be doing.

I've also decided that the sissy bar is going to go. I may get it stripped so i can put it back on at some point. It is the only bit of the bike other than the handle bars that I hate. The handle bars are also going to be replaced. There for want of a better word uncomfortable. They put my wrists at a funny angle so I will be replacing the whole bar with something lower and straighter. The bars are also slightly bent and I need new end caps. So a full replacement will work pretty well.

I'm also thinking about adding a screen. Nothing big or fancy, Just a little wind reflector. It should help with the top speed, and improve fuel economy slightly. I'm going to keep an eye out for something that suits my needs. By the end it's going to end up looking half way towards a cafe racer lol!

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The intake splitter is ordered.

Sorry for any Yam lovers that stick to OEM I went with a chinese variant :D Cost £11 delivered! It's the XV250 pipe with no flow restriction inside.

I've got a mate heading over tomorrow. Were going to drive down to the local bits shop. See if they have any handlebars that I like. I'll want new grips as well as the stock Yam ones are a little ugly.

I need a tank protector as well to hide some zip damage.


Today i reset the jet position. The plugs are showing it to be running rich on both cylinders, But thats been at idle with one mild reving I was fully expecting it to be lean with the split in the pipe. Once I have this part and I can take it down the lane and get some heat in it I'll make sure it's running brown. I also had a little power test earlier and managed to get the back wheel spinning on the grass in my back garden :D

I've also reset the brakes. The rear brake pedal was set at a silly angle. So it's been dropped to be inline with the shifter. And I've sorted the play on the pedal so it comes on when i want it to rather than when you tap it!

I also found out I can get to the tool box without needing to remove the seat. This means I won't have to carry a set of spanners in my pocket if i want to adjust on the fly.

The last part I need is the sealing washer on the sump bolt. Mines got a little drip of oil (3 drops last night).

Looks like I'm running out of excuses for not going and doing a CBT!

.

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