mickwill1978 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 hi everyone as the topic suggests i am new to this site,was wondering if anyone could help with some info please.i have just purchased an 03 dtr 125 electric power valve model.i have owned these bikes and rode them for years back in the 90,s.my problem is on the older models it was easy to set up the power valve with this one being electric ime struggling to find out if its fully open or deristricted,it has a full dep but dosent seem as if the valve is open full any help or suggestions would be much appreciated thanks mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 20, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 20, 2013 Greetings mick see here fella Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Welcome mick , tons of info about power valves in here,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Welcome!! Check the Rees switch is out it retards the powervalve, pull light shroud off and you should see it taped up tucked away or it will still be in back of clocks pull it out and tap it up! Best looking at link airhead posted up, helped me no ends!! Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 cheers everyone much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Reed switch should I say!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 still cant find this reed switch no idea what colour it is or anything,thats all it can be now as it does 70mph in 4th gear then dies in 5th and 6th cheers,any help would be greatley appreciated ive looked on all the links and cant find out what colour this wire is and wether i cut it or move it,cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 If it's doing 70mph in 4th you should be happy mine tops out at 60mph in 4th and 75mph in 6th.. I find there isn't much in last 2 gears especially 6th I can only get away with 6th either on the flat or down hill.... If you can get your dt past 60mph with ease then you are fully derestricted, while my Reed switch was in place I would loose a lot of power and struggled to get to 50 never mind touching 70mph Cheers Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 9, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 9, 2013 thats a good point ken, have the sprocket sizes been changed it may be overgeared? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Sounds like it, bet there is a 17tooth on the front rather than 16t... I had a 17 on mine but I found the last 2 gears even more useless, coming to hills was a nightmare aswell didn't pull as good as the 16t sprocket-got 16t on mine now and I can pull 60mph+ uphill no problem. Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 reed switch had been removed allready just taped up and tucked away beside the clocks,power valve is now fully open checked this by turning on ignition and watching it do its cycle and it sets fully open,a mechanic friend of mine adjusted this to fully open ,did this with exhaust off and looking up port.full dep 240 main jet seems to run better with the expansion chamber off that comes off the side of the airbox,ive been told to tape this up and re atatch it as its some sort of resctrictor,done that and it still runs better with it off.1st to 4th it is quite quick but dies as i said in 5th and 6th.a few of you got it in one its had a 520 chain sprocket conversion.phoned a yam dealers this morning standard front sprocket should have 16 teeth,and rear 57 teeth.my rear has 55 teeth and not sure on the front obviously its been upgeared hence struggling in higher gears.also its a much heavier chain standard pitch is 428.ime still sure theres more to be had not sure about this airbox expansion chamber and ive read somewhere on here theres a peice of rubber on the carb that can be cut bigger,happy riding mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 also i have found some info about the cdi unit restricting the valve,ime just printing it out it involves removing and cutting into an earthing a wire ime assumeing this is what this german thread floating about is regarding will try n upload the pic and details later ime certainly going to try it this weekend with the original gearing back on all being well,cheers mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 10, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 10, 2013 nahh dont be messing with your CDI, there are a few versions ( I think ending in 10, 20 or 30) and you may have one that isnt restricted...ask 'NEV' 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 cheers airhead,think i,ll just try the gearing bit more bottom end and a k&n filter as its still running standard airbox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Standard airbox is fine, you change filters you will have to adjust carb to compensate for it-if your dt can't suck enough air through the box you will be able to tell besides its better to have an enclosed filter for them muddy occasions/deep puddles etc Personally I would buy the standard sprocket and chain kit that should help you no ends.... Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 cheers ken still seem to be having bother with the expansion chamber that comes off the side of the airbox,from what ive read on here it seems like u tape it up i.e block it then shove it back on to the rubber tube off the airbox,ive done this and it runs terrible,may try it again and adjust the air screw cheers,deffo back to standard gearing saturday.when i detatch the expansion chamber i have to have the air screw fully out for it to run sweet so maybe blocking the chamber up and reatatching i may have to wind the air screw allway back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Are you talking about the plastic expansion chamber that fits to the carb inlet manifold?? If so there is no real benefit from detaching it as it isn't restrictive but does serve a purpose I can't remember what it does but helps the bike run smooth Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 yes thats the one cheers ken apparently they tape them up or bung them and reatach it,having problems with valve now its as if when the bike revs past a certain rpm it kills the valve.i have to stop turn off ignition restart it hey presto works again,its as if valves sticking arghhhhh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenDAWG Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Keep the plastic expansion chamber inplace! Take out your powervalve it might be coked up and need cleaning' Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickwill1978 Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 cheers ken had the valve out,clean as a whistle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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