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Clutch help please


Coopsterz
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Hello,

So I picked up my 03 xv125 yesterday it's really clean with only 6k miles on it, it's been laid up for a year in a garage yesterday I fitted plugs and new oil ;-) - I'm learning lol,

I'm finding it really hard to get it in to neutral I've adjusted the leaver on the top by the grip to its max but still no go, it's like it's not pulling the clutch hard anuff - now on the bottom part of the cable by the side of the engine the adjuster there looks to be all the way in!!? Should I adjust it here or does it sound like a new clutch is needed, the rest of the gear changes are fine - hope I've explained my self correctly here as I'm a bit of a newbi with bikes :-)

Thanks a mill for any help

Coops

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If the clutch is disengaging properly (no dragging in 1st with the clutch in) and it's fully engaged when the lever is out (no slipping when opening the throttle), then it's as well adjusted as it can be.

Some bikes are just a bit of a pain to get neutral - my H*nda NTV will only slip into neutral if I tap the lever while still moving or blip the throttle to 3000rpm at a standstill, try it at tickover and all you'll get is a bruised toe from bashing the lever.

You just need to figure out your particular bikes little ways and adapt to them - sometimes a different spec of oil can make things a bit better, but is it worth the extra money if you can learn to work around it? Your choice.

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Hi thanks a mill for the reply, also just to add

When in first gear pulling off and letting out the clutch there is no bite line on it like I can't feel when the clutch is engaging and the pull off speed is so so slow its like I'm still reveing at a stand still !? I know it's only a 125 but I think I should have more of a launch than what feels like me pushing the kids off on there first push bike :-)

Thanks again

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OK, here's what I'd do:

Screw the top cable adjuster (at the lever) right in so there's no thread showing. Take up the slack in the cable by screwing the bottom adjuster out until there's only a few mm of free play at the lever end. This should give you a clutch with a bite point about half an inch (10mm or so) before the lever is fully out, everything from there back to the bar should be a free clutch.

If it's still dragging slightly with the clutch all the way in it could be:

Oil is a bit thick/cold - go for a run to get it warmed through.

Clutch plates are sticking a bit where it's been sat for a while - go for a run to free them off.

Clutch actuating mechanism is badly adjusted - if the cases haven't been opened this is unlikely.

So, if it were mine I'd adjust the cable then take it for a damn good thrashing and see how it goes.

:thumb:

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  • Moderator

The whole world is in a rush these days.

As already said ride the thing. Every bike is different and yours sounds ok. My tdr wont take nutral easy either. If i dont catch it before the wheels stop turming you need to switch it off or you wasting your time.

Just get out and get some miles down.

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aaah it would apear to be a little worse that i had thourght, i took of the clutch cable off to change it for a new one to find a few cracks in the Carb to Head Rubber, also looks like the carb has seen better days (rounded off screws ect)

so some one has been at that too

plan of action is new rubber new carp new clutch cable and ill do the choke chable while im at it,

oil and plugs have been done already so we will see whats what once i source the parts

cheers

guys :-)

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Yuo say its needing a new carb" why, if its running ok, :eusa_eh: Anyway" on the subject of clutch drag, i found the clutch basket , the fingers were too tight together, ie as i installed the plates i had to push them thru with force,, now if there tight on the basket, even when clutch is disengaged " it will drag like fook, Solution= took out plates , buffed a few m,m off the side of raised sections. then they slipped thru basket nicely. = no more drag, if too mutch is buffed off plates = cluch chatter . probably were pattern plates, worth checking tho" ;)

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