Bosanski Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Well i got a yamaha dt125 from a friend and have some questions. im not looking to make it perfect, but nice enough to not be totally embarrased by it. First i need help identifying what year it is. there are also a few parts i need help sourcing and some info on how to get it on the street legally. theyve had the bike for 13 years and they dont remember having any form of title for it. but they do remember having tags for it at one point and legally drove it on the road, i dont have any title or bill of sale for it, how can i get it legally on the road? its not a huge concern, but something i would like to accomplish. Ill upload what pics i have and some of the pics i have question about, i appreciate any help! one thing i was wondering, from the airbox to the carb, is there supposed to be something connecting them together? or should i just get a filter for the carb and house it inside the airbox? also what is the cover called for this? they said thats wat mixes my oil and gas where does this cable go to? its coming from the same place that the cover is missing? does this go anywhere? it seems like a tube/hose coming from the same place as well as the cable and where the cover is missing? i doubt this is the factory exhaust, so wats my best option? it seems to be poorly sealed and makes the exhaust loud, not unbearable, but enough to not sound like a 125 is there anyway to fix these dents or am i better off getting another tank? not a must, just an annoyance im also looking for a seat, the original one is torn badly and was covered in a burlap type fabric also on the hunt for the mirrors and turn signals. i would assume that this is where the battery would go? wat kind of battery would i need and what hooks up to the battery? the lights seems to work fine though when i start the bike, they said they dont remember having a battery for it ever is there a way to open the gauges up and clean/repaint the gauge faces? just wondering as they look bad in my opinion? also the miles on it, low/high/or usual for a bike this old? thats all the pictures i have for it now, needs a good cleaning, i can get any other pictures that are needed though. im new to bikes so pictures/detailed descriptions help me beyond belief, thanks for all the help guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 OK" piccy 2 , the cable should go into a splitter under tank, same place as throttle cable. piccy 3 , is the oil feed to carb, or banjo on crank case, Run this bike on pre-mix till this is sorted.. 4600 mls is low, for a bike this age, it looks like an 1980"s style, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Hello. You should 1: clean your bike. 2: buy this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/DT125LC-1982-87-Workshop-Motorcycle-Manuals/dp/1850104174/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1362776693&sr=8-11 Everything solved:) It looks like a LC MK1 from the swing arm, might be a MK2. Take a look in projects. And for the gauges, I used some very fine abrasive paper, then spray painted with clear coat. Looks fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Yip DT125 Lc MK2 1985/6... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouch Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Nice little project bike, should keep you entertained, you could have it looking mint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 yeah i plan to run premixed for a bit, im also looking into getting a repair manual, and im doing my best to clean it, but a couple years or dirt/mud/oil/ and slime are a pain to get off, used just some water, a brush, and some high pressure air. i plan to go at it tomorrow with a good degreaser as well. i looked at the 'muffler' on it, and wondered y it was so loud, turns out the thing is empty inside, they gutted it but put it back on to look stockish, where i live, and the fields im on, its no different than a straight pipe, so i made it a straight pipe haha ill switch it over once i find a good exhaust at an affordable price, not stock, but not too loud haha ill also look into getting those cable and hoses in the right spots, could you maybe explain better where the oil feed is on the carb? and theres another little brass nipple on the front of the carb and it seems to leak fuel, wat goes there? ill get a better describing picture soon. and as for the cable that goes to the same place where the throttle cable goes to? thanks for the help so far guys, appreciate it, warned you i was new to this haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Let me save you alot of money,forget ever getting it on the road.Just beat whatever life it has left in it and save your cash for somthing better to start with. Your going to spend 1500.00-2000.00 or more to get this thing back into shape,for that kind of cash you can buy something that hasn't been beaten and neglected. A nice yz 125 2000 ish can be picked up for 1500.00 in very good condition,with better suspension brakes ect.. For now take the rivets out andstuff some insulation in the old pipe and stick it back on that will sush it up a we bit, to re fit the oil pump hoses will require you cleaning the whole thing as I'm sure it's full of dirt,not worth it just pre mix it for field use,and plug the brass nippel at the carb. They gave you this bike because it's not realy worth fixing. If it's been run for long without a air filter you can be asured that there is dammage to the eng. and by the looks of it it has. the motor alone to fix is going to cost inwards of 1000.00 add new tires brakes, signals, fork seals+ possibly new forks if they are pitted and I bet they are,seat cover, new chain and sprockets (yours are done now) new front sprocket cover, handel bars,grips, levers,battery box and battery,ect.. add another 1000.00 at least.. As I said beat what ever life it has left in it with a air filter might last a week maybe a month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 yeah, but i hate letting old things die out, ive spent more than i should on my subaru, just because most people wouldnt fix it up, i knew itd need a lot of work, i took it on as a project knowing full well id be in a pretty penny. i dont like seeing old cars/bikes being beaten as long as there is a slim chance of it being restored/fixed up. if it does take 1500-2000, thats just more money ill have to work for. if i wanted a nicer bike with less work, i wouldve gone that route, not meaning to sound harsh, but my bike, my money, my choice. i may be new to bikes, but i still know when there is enough left to make it worth restoring, im not in a rush to get it on the road, and it will probably see A LOT of field time until i find a way to get it titled (didnt have one for 13ish years). again sorry if i seem harsh man, im trying not to (long day). i understand where your coming from, but id rather restore it and see an old bike on the road again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Fair enough as you said your money,any help I can give no problem. First find a intake rubber and air filter Thats the part you need to fit between the air box and carb. The little wires hanging are what the battery hooks up to the other 2 ar for the signals. Or oil level sending unit. The pump can be checked by putting some oil in the tank( if it still exists large hose from pump goes back to tank) and run the bike oil will come out of the hose next to the carb while the bike is running,if not pump is junk. They are self lubed by the oil being pumped through if left too long without oil it is probably NFG. But will need the cable hooked up. The oil pump cable hooks up to the throttle cable, Half way down the cable will be a plastic tube and it goes in there .most likely been changed so your going to need a new cable. The small hose will fit to the brass nippel at the carb exhaust side. Never let it be said I stoped someone from fixing anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 thanks for the help, made sense of quite a bit. so the cable from the pump attatchs to the throttle cable? ill have to see if i can find where you described, if not ill have to look and order the right stuff, until then ill just premix it. wats the ratio i should run? and i take i mix it with regular 2 stroke oil? i went to walmart and seen all kinds of fancy 2 stroke oils, which is the best to use? and as the oil i put in the engine, wat oil do you recommend? 2 stroke as well? because my old bike was a 4 stroke and i ran 5w-30 in the engine. thanks for all the help so far, hoping to get it running this weekend, gotta get a new tube for the rear tire or patch mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busyeddie Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Any motorbike specific 4 stroke engine oil in the gear box. And a half decent two stroke oil. Dont be putting car oil in the gearbox. The clutch wont like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 ok so 4 stroke oil in the engine, and 2 stroke in the gas? also i fixed the hose/tube that went to the oil feed on the carb, now i just gotta figure something out for the cable. also does anyone know what is supposed to hook up to the brass nipple on the front of the carb? it seems to be leaking fuel so id imagine it went somewhere haha, any help would be great, ill try and get a picture uploaded soon of what im talking about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbikerehab Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 yeah, but i hate letting old things die out, ive spent more than i should on my subaru, just because most people wouldnt fix it up, i knew itd need a lot of work, i took it on as a project knowing full well id be in a pretty penny. i dont like seeing old cars/bikes being beaten as long as there is a slim chance of it being restored/fixed up. if it does take 1500-2000, thats just more money ill have to work for. if i wanted a nicer bike with less work, i wouldve gone that route, not meaning to sound harsh, but my bike, my money, my choice. i may be new to bikes, but i still know when there is enough left to make it worth restoring, im not in a rush to get it on the road, and it will probably see A LOT of field time until i find a way to get it titled (didnt have one for 13ish years). again sorry if i seem harsh man, im trying not to (long day). i understand where your coming from, but id rather restore it and see an old bike on the road again This being the case, my .02 would be to put your first $$ into strictly functional and safety stuff like good fluids, cables, brakes, filters, spark plug, . . . ? Barring any major unseen malfunctions you should be able to get it running and performing like a champ and just have some fun riding pretty much anywhere you want for a while as you get a feel where you want to go with it in terms of aesthetics an street look. Get the engine running like new, then get it looking new, then get it street legal. If you know you definitely want to title it, start that process now. Depending on what state you're in, it can be a lengthy and expensive process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbikerehab Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 A whole lot of degreaser and a pressure washer. Don't be afraid to blast the !@#$ out of it with HOT water for this first round of work. Dirt bikes love pressure washers and it will make your work a lot more clean and fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 ill see if i can get a hold of a pressure washer soon, and i have it planned to get it 100% mechanically sound first, looks to me dont matter a whole lot if it runs without a problem, i know the looks aspect is gonna take a while so im prepared to put that last on the to do list. as for titling it, im not 100% sure yet, that depends on how i feel with it after a bit. ill be moving this summer to CT so ill look more into it there, but i was wondering if anyone knows the process of roughly doing so, is it worth it? im hoping it wont cost too much, i can handle the wait on it. thanks for all the help so far! a lot more help than the previous forum i was on. all i gotta do now is get a rear tube, fill it up with oil and gas, and its on the road. still have to figure out wat that brass nipple to on the carb goes to, i havent found any other hoses/tubes that seem disconnected. ill get a pic up shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 This is the nipple thats leaking fuel, wats it supposed to be hooked up to? i cant seem to find any hose/tube thats unhooked? sorry its a bad pic, hard to get a good shot of it also i fixed the hosing for the oil pump, it didnt want to fit on the nipple for it and when it did the hose cracked and fell apart so i replaced it, not just to find a way to make the cable work with the throttle cable, if not, ill just premix until then haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 9, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 9, 2013 That nipple is at the bottom of the float bowl right? If so It's the bowl overflow and you should check your float height or fit a new float valve assy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosanski Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 ok, i might do that, i noticed it only leaks if its being pushed and in gear or if its in 1st and being walked. i havent had a chance to take it past 1st gear so im not sure if its a problem yet, ill keep an eye on it once it gets on the road. cleaned it up pretty good earlier, took the header/exhaust off and went at it with a nuematic soft wire wheel, took A LOT of the rust/grime off so i went at the rest of the bike with it. the wires are soft enough not to damage the hoses, plastic, or wires, but tough enough to clean through the grease, oil, grime, mud, and any rust. doesnt even scratch the paint, so i got a few of these to go at most of the bike to clean it until i get a pressure washer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 10, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 10, 2013 If it only leaks when you push the bike in gear it may not be the float or needle, if youre lucky it could just be a blocked vent tube...try pulling off the vent tube from the side of the carb and test if the problem is repeatable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Put a cone style air filter on it at least untill you find a intake rubber,sucking in dirt will kill the eng quick. No pressurer washer ...no problem get a gallon of varsol and a stiff brush,put a try under the bike to catch the varsol so you can reuse it,and just go at it untill all the old grease,dirt ect is loose and then hot water with dish soap.Pop the carb off and plug the intake will make it easy to get the eng under it cleaned up. Is ther rust in the gas tank? if so you should put a filter in line so the rust dosen't get into the carb and plug it up. The easiest way to get a ownership for it,is ask the last owner to go to the licence offic and get a relpacment as the original was lost noromaly 15-20 bucks.But they will have to know who's name the bike was regerstered in. The next way is to claim the bike abanonded go to a lawyer and sign a affidavit that you can't find the owner and take that to the licence office with the serial # and they can produce a new one in your name, normaly 50 to the lawyer and same 15-20 to the licence office. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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