ESPANTA Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 hi everyone well i was rebuilding an engine that i had saved from a bike that went to the junkyard a few years ago and was just sitting there waiting for a rebuild to work. since my bike's engine popped off i thouhgt i could rebuild this one and fit it there everything was great until i teared the engine appart and found that the clutch lever is jammed. and the screw that its holding it together it's also jammed the lever only moves when i hit it with a hammer otherwise i cant move it. the screw i can't even move it. here's a few pics any help would be apreciated thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Lots of HEAT is the only way if you have tried everything else, or saw/drill the end off, take the side cover off, remove the remains of the thread/bolt/screw and then buy a new one. Better yet have you checked to see if it might be a left hand thread? Just a thought! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy10bikes Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 The screw has a peg on the end of the screw which is off center to the screw, this sits inside a recess on the clutch lever shaft which when unscrewed should lift the shaft and drop back down as the peg is unscrewed, As the shaft is sounds as if its seized the only options i think would be to place some pressure under the lever while trying to undo the screw, only other option is maybe to split the casings and get some heat on the shaft and bearing, not too much mind., a hot air gun is a good option or place it in the oven . TTB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Lots of HEAT is the only way if you have tried everything else, or saw/drill the end off, take the side cover off, remove the remains of the thread/bolt/screw and then buy a new one. Better yet have you checked to see if it might be a left hand thread? Just a thought! yeah i've already thought about drilling it but the problem is that its kinda hard to find spares for this engine out here. probably if i done it i would had to make a costum one The screw has a peg on the end of the screw which is off center to the screw, this sits inside a recess on the clutch lever shaft which when unscrewed should lift the shaft and drop back down as the peg is unscrewed, As the shaft is sounds as if its seized the only options i think would be to place some pressure under the lever while trying to undo the screw, only other option is maybe to split the casings and get some heat on the shaft and bearing, not too much mind., a hot air gun is a good option or place it in the oven . TTB i'll try that pressure thing and then report back. good thing that the hot air gun that i've borowed came back home broken thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 well i've apllied some heat and so pressure onde the lever and it came out a bit but now it's stuck again and the lever has seized not a bad place. can always be welded back every time i rotate the screw in any way the lever drops back in place anyway the lever still doesnt work properly. actually it's exactly the same has it was in place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 16, 2013 Author Share Posted March 16, 2013 any more sugestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 16, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 16, 2013 you havent unclipped the return spring before trying to lift out the operating arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 th spring its seized bellow the lever. it cant be seen on the picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Not to be rude but the spring is clearly visable in the pict,well at least the 1 that air is speaking of . If removed then it might lift out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 17, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 17, 2013 That screw needs to come out before the arm will come out. Simple as that. turing the arm will make no difference. The screw is the problem. You keep trying to force the arm out and you will knacker the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Not to be rude but the spring is clearly visable in the pict,well at least the 1 that air is speaking of . If removed then it might lift out. the spring its seized. doesnt really matter if its there or not. its not doing anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 That screw needs to come out before the arm will come out. Simple as that. turing the arm will make no difference. The screw is the problem. You keep trying to force the arm out and you will knacker the case. thats the problem. i cant get the screw out either. it doesnt move at all in any direction. to get it out it has to rotate or to pull it off? it had a nut that i could get removed almost instantly but still cant move the screw i've already thought about getting another case but i cant find them in my country. i feel like i'm the only guy here that owns one of these engines lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 17, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 17, 2013 Can you post the engijne number then we can better help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 what you mean? the engine number that is placed in the cases or the engine code? cause i dont know what engine code is this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 what you mean? the engine number that is placed in the cases or the engine code? cause i dont know what engine code is this... I think he's referring to the engine numbers stamped on the casing... but I could be wrong, it's been known to happen on more than one occasion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 19, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 19, 2013 Yes the actual engine number. Its the locknut thats baffling me here. What you 'should' have is a panhead screw that screws down tight on the case and a machined end that locates in a corresponding grove on the clutch arm. The locknut should not have been there and that is altogether not what the locking screw looks like. With the engine number we can find a proper drawing for that gearbox. The ty engine looks very similar with the barrelnoff but has a compleltely different gear shaft mech. Same as some US models have a blend of ty and dt methods. The engine number. Even just the first half if your concerned about security/privacy will nail it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 i'm not worried cause i've got this from a scrapyard and the bike is no longer on the road and well i got it for parts so i didnt had the papers of it so who cares? its not my problem the number is 1F9-108582 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted March 21, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 21, 2013 The screw has a peg on the end of the screw which is off center to the screw, this sits inside a recess on the clutch lever shaft which when unscrewed should lift the shaft and drop back down as the peg is unscrewed, As the shaft is sounds as if its seized the only options i think would be to place some pressure under the lever while trying to undo the screw, only other option is maybe to split the casings and get some heat on the shaft and bearing, not too much mind., a hot air gun is a good option or place it in the oven . TTB Tommy gets the prize. Dont know what that engine numbers from as by my records that should be a 125f not an e. The clutch mech is the same as a ty125/ 175. Which the f shouldnt have???? You can adjust the height of the pad opperating the clutch rod by adjusting the shaft. Entirely pointless and prolly why it got deleted. The ONLY way that shaft will come out is to rotate it back and forth as much as possible and apply penetrating oil. As the shaft being siezed will prevent the screw coming out. Oopsee mr yamaha. Heat wont help as there is too much case to heat. It cannot be stuck in a bearing as there arent any its metal on metal. It may however if its been left unloved in salty air have corroded electrolytically as slly and steel are not good bedfellows. Try to get the clutch arm turning is job no 1. Cos till it does it aint coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESPANTA Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 apparently i still have some pics of the bike if it helps. http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/9660/dsc00667m.jpg the seat that is on the ground isnt hers. and found the identification tag from the frame. any info can be taken from that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Aye Espanta" DT125E --2A6-0000 And that 1F9-108582 comes in at DT100D 1977.. Is yours the Electic start model.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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