trumpetdude Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 So. Battery good, bike will bump start and when I press the button I just get the red oil light. Starter runs when attached to a straight 12V feed. All fuses appear to be fine and I bridged the starter relay, ignition off, (woo, sparky!) and the starter turned over. So I'm guessing this all points to the ignition switch? I'll check the relay as per Haynes guide lines tomorrow but anyone anything else to suggest? Cheers! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I've had the same problem myself, if you remove the seat and the fairing with the grab rail on the right hand side of the bike you will find a relay/block connector at the front of a row of three or four.relays/connectors, remove it from its holder, turn it upside down and you should see a blue/white cable which is from the starter button. Check the connection going into the block, mine was corroded so I cleaned out the female connection in the block, joined a new bit of wire to the cable and pushed it into the block then taped it up with insulating tape and the jobs a good un. Also check the kill switch is set to run. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Duncan Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Hello, i have just got my yammy back on the road after a similar problem, what it turned out to be was one of the bushings in the starter motor not being fully out, ( had sprung in, but not returned) this may be a possable problem? Regards, Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trumpetdude Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Cheers Chaps, Just tested the relay and it's resistance appears to be nominal so I'll check out that blue white wire. Thanks! Cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trumpetdude Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Yup, blue and white. Corroded and snapped clean off. They're all looking a bit ropey so I'll just see if I can get a replacement block with connectors in better condition. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Great result " well done mike, ,,, "experience" [bad /good] is what make this fourm , this thread should help others too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trumpetdude Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Got myself a partial loom so I just used the replacement main relay plug with inline crimp connectors, all taped up too. For good measure I've put a plastic wrap around the entire relay area to try tobprotect it from our glorious weather, not sure about this but I'll see how it goes. Pic to follow as I'm on my phone just now. Hopefully the bike won't die the first bump I hit! Cheers to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Please remove the crimp connectors and solider it , for your own good,,,,them dam things are crap who ever invented them shoud be kicked in the balls,the weather will get under even with tape and you will be back to square 1 the wires will rot green death. Use shrink tube to seal it after solidering it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Please remove the crimp connectors and solider it , for your own good,,,,them dam things are crap who ever invented them shoud be kicked in the balls,the weather will get under even with tape and you will be back to square 1 the wires will rot green death. Use shrink tube to seal it after solidering it. dt, I've been thinking of squirting some silicone gel in there, any good ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Ok here is the problem with crimp connectors,the voltage/amp flow is droped /restricted when installed, your only connecting the outer wires and the crimp creats a resistance that wouldn't normaly be there so no matter how you seal it, it's still wrong. Now that said.. any way of sealing it moisture tight is better but still wrong, ugly, tape over time will seperate and allow moisture in, good for a quick fix but not permenant ..any wireing problems should be fixed as close to original as possible to ensure that thier is no extra resistance on the system that in time will cause other components to fail on that circut due to over loading /back feeding of the circut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1949 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Right dt, in my reply (post #2) to trumpetdude I correctly advised him of what the solution to his problem was because I have had the same problem myself about two/three years ago. When I originally had the problem I fixed it by doing as I suggested, i.e. cutting the blue/white cable back about half an inch then joining a small length of cable which at the time worked well, only to happen again about a month ago, so obviously there is a problem with that particular connection. To which I have had to do as you say a "quick fix" to get me out of trouble and to get the bike going so as to get me to and from work. Bearing in mind we are having quite severe cold weather here in the UK. So when spring comes and I have time to spare I hope to do a permanent job. So in layman's terms, for me and trumpetdudes what exactually do you mean by Ok here is the problem with crimp connectors,the voltage/amp flow is droped /restricted when installed, your only connecting the outer wires and the crimp creats a resistance that wouldn't normaly be there so no matter how you seal it, it's still wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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