Torkorp Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hi. I'm new to this forum, and would like to share ( and recieve:) ) some experience while restoring an old DT 125. Interesting enough; more and more of the cool bikes and cars from my youth, seem to have become vintage almost overnight. In january I found a 1983 DT 125 LC with most parts still in place, and decided to start what I call a 75% restore. That means get everything in good workin order, change everything thats worn out and get a decent, not showroom finish. Engine had low compression, so I did a Nr. 2 overbore, changed piston and tok the engine apart for examination. Pretty much everything had acceptable tolerances ( that puzzled me), but I changed the main bearings and all gaskets/ seals. So far, all main frame parts has been removed, and I've gathered some new parts from ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 29, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 29, 2013 all good fun. I love building bikes but money, time and somewhere to do it always gets in my way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 29, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 29, 2013 how is it getting parts from ebay in Norway? are there parts within Norway or are you having to buy from other countries? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 There is no use trying to source parts for old bikes in Norway. Way too small market. I use ebay.co.uk as my main source when it comes to Yamaha two strokes, with Germany as a good number two. I have two favorite sellers that usually has what is needed. The over all costs in Norway is so high that even when shipping and the occasional taxes are paid, the prices are pretty good. Here is the engine back in the frame. Frame is sanded and painted. There was just a few spots of corrosion easily primed. No welding necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 29, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 29, 2013 I thought as much, It makes the whole project so much more difficult due to sellers unwillingness to export items and also so much more expensive! so you really need a good bike to start with that doesnt need many replacement parts...I see yours does look quite good from the photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Fuel tank straightened out and primed. I think I`ll try to wrap it with 3M 1080 white gloss instead of spraying it. Thats the plan for all the plastics anyway. It`s a white and red DT by the way. Rear frame almost ready. The bushings and slides has to be changed - it might be a challenge to find a swing arm repair kit for the DT LC MK1. So far I´ve just found for the more vintage DTs. Theres a new handle bar there - the old one was bent badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 I thought as much, It makes the whole project so much more difficult due to sellers unwillingness to export items and also so much more expensive! so you really need a good bike to start with that doesnt need many replacement parts...I see yours does look quite good from the photos Thanks . Yes it is a remarkably good bike for restoring. It has probably never been used as a field bike, maybe just a commuter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 29, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 29, 2013 I can see this being a great job, tell us about the vinyl wrapping as you progress... I've never seen it done and would like to see how Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Wrapped the plastics with vinyl today. I used 3M 1080 series White glossy quality. Learned how to do it by watching some youtube videos - the trick is to use a hair dryer when stretching the vinyl over, and work in small increments. I´m rather satisfied with the result, will try the fuel tank tomorrow. I really can`t find a swing arm repair kit for the early LC. All I´ve found so far is the bushings, but I need the sleeves too - the old ones are too rusty for my taste. If anyone has suggestions for where to look, I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 30, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 30, 2013 maybe a call here? http://shop.bruun-larsen.dk/en/mc-spare-parts-25/yamaha-reservedele-26/frame-parts-32/shaft-pivot-dt125-tdr125-1367.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 OK. So wrapping a 2 dimensional plane over a 3 dimensional fuel tank makes absolutely no sense . The only way I managed to get a smooth surface was through an improvized Mercator projection. Cylindrical with lots of cliffs and valleys. I give up!! Spray paint is next. That said: all the plastics looks very good though. I'll cut some black vinyl for the black parts of the side cover. Small curved areas is very manageable for an amateur, so a wrapping expert would probably fix a fuel tank wrapping too. Cleaned all electrical contacs and changed some corroded ones. Fitted new handlebars and the repainted and straightened exhaust. I also change all bolts with new flat head hexbolts. I sent a mail too the Danish company about the swing arm bushings and sleeves. Thanks, Airhead. The sleeves are 17.5 mm diameter. Do anyone know if this is the same size as the older DTs? In that case, I could buy a kit and split the long sleeve into 2 shorter ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 31, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 31, 2013 ............. I sent a mail too the Danish company about the swing arm bushings and sleeves. Thanks, Airhead. The sleeves are 17.5 mm diameter. Do anyone know if this is the same size as the older DTs? In that case, I could buy a kit and split the long sleeve into 2 shorter ones. dont know what you mean by that, some of them have a reduced diameter between the bearing surfaces at the ends what is the exact length of the original one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 The pivot bolt runs through two sleeves that are surronded by vinyl bushes in the swing arm. Between the two swing arm sleeves, the bolt goes through a smaller diameter bushing in the engine. The length of the two sleeves is 69 mm, outer diameter 17 mm, inner diameter 12 mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 31, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 31, 2013 cant see it being a major problem I bet the DT175MX one is long enough to cut in half and machine to those lengths, I'll check if I can find one I think the plastic bushes will be the same too so if the measurements are OK you could buy a kit for a DTMX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 Fuel Tank finished. Aerosol spray paint+ clear coating. White Vinyl on the sides and top of the tank, as it it more resistant against schratches. New battery and gearlever. All wires lubricated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted February 2, 2013 Moderator Share Posted February 2, 2013 Nice work man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted February 3, 2013 Moderator Share Posted February 3, 2013 Swing arm bearing part # 90387-127F2 Always try your Yamaha dealer first you may be pleasantly surprised Failing that http://www.cmsnl.com/ttr225ppc-2002_model11059/collar-10v_90387127f2/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Been following looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torkorp Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 A short update: New brake shoes, tacho cable, fork dust seals and oil seals arrived today. For the swing arm: Yamaha Norway claims 170GBP for sleeves and bushings. (!) But Dave at Yambits measured up a cheapish DT125MX kit for me, and I should just have to cut the sleeve in 2 parts to make it fit. Kit is ordered. Maybe some of you fine folks can suggest the best oil weight for the front fork? The Haynes manual says that 10W-30 engine oil is the preferred OEM oil quality, but points out that single grade fork oils with different weight can be used for personal adjustment. 30 years of added experience since the Haynes manual was written might point me in the direction of which oil grade to choose for best performance. Preferred use is 70% trail and 30% road. Driver weight 85 kg. I'm open for all suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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