dt502001 Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 NP let it have 3-4 mmm free play at the lever the gap between the lever and the perch might fixer right up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 I hope thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Write i ajusted the cable gav it a bit of slack and still slippin and over reving . Only when the bike is cold tho?? I recently fitted a k&n air filther and done an oil change it was fine bfore that .would that have anyting to do with it or is a new clutch needed ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 What type of oil and what grade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Motul 10w40 semi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 You could try droping it into a clean bucket,so you can re use it and put in 10-30 ,if that dosen't fix it then you might be looking at a clutch job. also are you sure you have free play in the cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 At the start my clutch lever was loose so i ajusted it till it was tight now i loosend it up again . How can i tell if theres free play . Also i used the same oil in my older 2000 fazer and never had any problems thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 As long as you can move the lever without moving the cable you have free play,you don't need alot of free play but it has to allow the clutch to fully engauge. From what I understand its been a bit colder this year over there, oil thickens when cold so might just be cold enough to warent thinner oil or just let it warm up longer to thin out the oil. Hope that clears it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Thanks for the advise . Yes u hav a point it only happens on first start in the morning . When it warms up its grand and even after i stop for a wile then start again it doesnt happen . Would it cause any danage if i keep drivin it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Well its going to wear your clutch out faster and as the same oil feeds the rest of the eng,rings piston cams ect the debree from the clutch will be wearing at that as well. It's going to blue up your steel plates so when you do have to replace the clutch it's going to cost more as you will need to replace the steel plates,instead of just the fiber plates. Oil while not exactly cheap it's cheaper than a rebuild,I would drop it and go wilth a thiner oil,save the clutch for as long as possible and the rest of the eng. If you have a lawn mower use the old in it,it will love it and the mower will last way longer with that high grade oil in it. Or put it in a oiling can and use it for what ever. Also if the thinnner oil dosen't fix it then you know it's just about time for a clutch better to know now than down the road away from home and be stuck with a slippin clutch to nurse home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Great thanks for the advise i think il phone around tommorow for prices .better safe than sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Right im goin have ago at changeing the clutch myself . Could anyone recomend a good clutch to use and were to buy ? .i can do a clutxh in a car so it cant be that hard . And as for tje garage prices . Madness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Right im goin have ago at changeing the clutch myself . Could anyone recomend a good clutch to use and were to buy ? .i can do a clutxh in a car so it cant be that hard . And as for tje garage prices . Madness Dont do anything or buy anything yet. Am going ta bed now and work in the mornin, but after that ill chat to ya and you can do some checks before ya start anything. Ya mightened need a clutch at all yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Dont do anything or buy anything yet. Am going ta bed now and work in the mornin, but after that ill chat to ya and you can do some checks before ya start anything. Ya mightened need a clutch at all yet. +1 I didn't say you need a clutch,besides you need to know how to set it up properly,, even with new clutch set up wrong it will slip. don't jump to conclusions. and they are way different than a car clutch single plate system, it's a multi plate (probably 6 steel and 6 fiber) and the pressure plate has to be set,unlike a car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 ok 2wheels . and sorry dt i no u didnt say it was the clutch but from all the advice ive got it sounds like a slippy clutch and ur right i googled it there and there is a lot more involed than a car clutch so maybe i would b better off leaving it in to someone who no.s what there doin . Bit rip off garages and there shocking prices is what made me become a car mechanic many moons ago . but aparr from motorcross im a newby to the road bikes and id b lost without the advice and help i get from everyone on this site so thanks again ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarke Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 When drivin my fazer i have a problem sumtimes when i clutch and go to select gear the gear leaver goes up but doesnt dgo into nxt gear . Only happens goin up gears any idead what would b the problem thanks Just going back to the original post, how long has this been happening? Has it been a while or fairly recent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kearnsy123 Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Recent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 ok 2wheels . and sorry dt i no u didnt say it was the clutch but from all the advice ive got it sounds like a slippy clutch and ur right i googled it there and there is a lot more involed than a car clutch so maybe i would b better off leaving it in to someone who no.s what there doin . Bit rip off garages and there shocking prices is what made me become a car mechanic many moons ago . but aparr from motorcross im a newby to the road bikes and id b lost without the advice and help i get from everyone on this site so thanks again ! Na do it yourself it's a straight foward job,if in fact it needs to be done. I'm thinking it's the oil if it started after the oil change.So thats the first thing I would do. But if you want to check the plates thickness or just change it for the sake of knowing it's new. you can lean the bike to the left side and not drop the oil. Remove the cover Remove the 5or6 springs this will alow the pressure plate to be removed note its position relatede to the basket Caution don't loose the ball bearing on the end of the push/release rod in the center when removing. Remove the fiber and steel plates 1 at a time noting how each steel plate is possibly positioned different ie 12oclock 6 ,3,9,ect also the steel plates outer edge have a rounded edge side and a sharp edge side sharp edge goes in. Measure the free length of the springs and thicknees of fiber plates,check the steel for warpage( i use a plate of glass) Sorry I don't have specs for minum thickness of the fibers or spring length. Check the outer basket fingers for notching where the fibers engauge. Check the gear on the back of the basket,no free play. Check the roller bearing thrust washer and washer in the center of presure plate (known for failing)possibly all that is wrong. Install new plates ,pressuer plate,springs ect. If you pressure plate has a adjusting screw and lock nut in the center,remove the cable,loosen the lock nut back the screw out ,then turn in untill it seats against the push rod back out 1/8 of a turn and lock nut down. Install cable and adjust slack untill you have minimal free play at the lever. New gasket and cover DONE. EBC and barnett make good clutches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Right im goin have ago at changeing the clutch myself . Could anyone recomend a good clutch to use and were to buy ? .i can do a clutxh in a car so it cant be that hard . And as for tje garage prices . MadnessI think Id be inclined to strip it first, then see what parts I may or may not require. Try googling for minimum clutch plate thickness. Thats what I did when I did mine late last year, took the parts list to local yammy parts supplier (I always do that with critical/internal parts), you can buy crap off E bay too easily. It might be as dt says, just an oil jobee, or thust bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Wheels Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 DT has answered ya but ill just say the same. Ok about the sliping clutch,,,,even though you started this topic about not being able to select gears going up through the box. Might be related anyway. 10w40 is the corect oil BUT it has to have the letters JASO wrote on the container,,,, if it doesnt then your clutch will slip regardless. 3--4mm free play at leaver end,,,, this is important so your clutch can release fully. Here is leaver free play So to get you back on the right track,,,,,,, right kind of oil right amount of oil right amount of free play,,,,,leaver end. In normal circumstances this should sort it out for you. Providing the clutch hasnt been sliping much and caused the plates to Blue. However if it doesnt do these checks next. Back wheel off the ground,, bike not started,, select 1st gear,,,you should be able to grab the back tyre and barely turn it forward. What you are doing is turning the engine over against its own compression. If you can turn your tyre fairly easily then your clutch plates might well be woren. Next,,, try pulling in the clutch leaver with just your middle finger,,, you should be able to do it but again it should be a struggle. You shouldnt be able to pull it in with your baby finger alone. If you can then your springs that push the pressure plate are week or mabey one broken. Now back to adjusting clutch further,,, should right oil and free play not fix things. Where the clutch cable enteres the side casing at the bottom,,,,,well just below this there is a rubber cover. Pull it out,,, behind it there is a locknut and a screw. First fully slacken the cable at the leaver end. Then loosen the locknut,,,then unscrew the screw a few turns. Then tighten in the screw slowly untill you start to feel pressure,,,when you do fell pressure loosen the screw again by 1/8 turn and tighten the locknut,,,,,,rubber cover back on. Back up to leaver and set free play. If all this does not sort out your slipping clutch then you will have to open her up for a look and see whats happening. None of this is hard to do,,,,, just a bit of patience needed when sorting out the plates. By the way you should be able to go up and down all the gears with the bike not started and back wheel off the ground without any probs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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