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fazer problem


kearnsy123
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Thanks 2wheels il get right on it first thing in the morning and get back to use with progress .

Thanks

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Ok 2wheels . There is 3-4 mill slack on the clutch lever . There is the word jaso on the oil container . I cannot move clutch lever with small finger and its a struggle to pull it in with middle finger ... i cannot move rear wheel wen bike is in first . And i removed the rubber cover nxt to were clutch cable is and loosend bolt but the screw wond move there is small pieces of metal tho ??

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Behind the bolt there is a metal ring that looks to b in bad shape behind that i c ball bearings

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Also ive just noticed i hav a bit more oil in it . Its up to top of the sight glass a bit above the full dot would this matter ??

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Also ive just noticed i hav a bit more oil in it . Its up to top of the sight glass a bit above the full dot would this matter ??

Too much oil is bad,,,, puts extra pressure on everything,,,, should be half way on sight glass but not more that the dot full mark. To chek oil level,,start bike, let warm up, stop bike, wait 5 mins then sheck level at sight glass. sometimes ya have to lean bike left and right to get correct level.

Ok 2wheels . There is 3-4 mill slack on the clutch lever . There is the word jaso on the oil container . I cannot move clutch lever with small finger and its a struggle to pull it in with middle finger ... i cannot move rear wheel wen bike is in first . And i removed the rubber cover nxt to were clutch cable is and loosend bolt but the screw wond move there is small pieces of metal tho ??

You couldnt move screw cause you had cable adjusted up at handlebars,,,,, anyway doesnt matter now. Behind the nut and screw there is a housing with ball bearings in it,, this is what is shaged on your bike. It lets the clutch swivel in action as you pull in the clutch leaver. The bits of metal you can see is prob the springy cuped washer that is fooked. The hole housing comes in one unit and is number 20 on this picture.

For the life of me, i cant remember if ya can just change this from this side of the bike/clutch,,,,,, i think ya can but just not sure !!! Anyway take off this cover that coveres the front sproket, after you loosen the clutch cable at handlebars. Take care not to damage the gasket----you can use it again---its not sealing in oil or anything like that. You will see straight away wheather this housing can be changed from this side or not. Again i think it can or hope it can,,,,,, because if it cant it means the hole clutch assembly has to come out and apart. So take cover off to see.

http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-yzf600rmrmc-2000_model10892/partslist/C-06.html#results

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That number 20 part . If u c the 3 metal over laps there not there in mine .hense the shards of metal . Do u no what tould have caused this to happen . Its an expensive little part but needs done . So u rekon my clutch is ok ? And just so i no . The damaged part is making my clutch stay open a bit which is like im double clutching all the time ??

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That number 20 part . If u c the 3 metal over laps there not there in mine .hense the shards of metal . Do u no what tould have caused this to happen . Its an expensive little part but needs done . So u rekon my clutch is ok ? And just so i no . The damaged part is making my clutch stay open a bit which is like im double clutching all the time ??

Mabey ware and tear or someone dicking arround overtightening it. How many miles is on this bike ??

Expensive,,yes but you need it.

I cant say that your clutch is ok yet, but this part WILL be locking up and not letting your push-rod to the clutch disingage fully.

yes its keeping clutch pulled a bit if it wont let it release.

take cover off and see can it be changed from this side.

drop oil to correct level

put on new housing

adjust screw,,,tighten locknut,,,, set free-play at bars

Then its a case of hoping its sorted.

Hard to turn back wheel and hard to pull in clutch leaver is all a good sign of clutch being ok.

But thats the things with bikes,,,,,, there not fixed till there fixed right.

Let us know whats the story behind sprocket cover.

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Its a 2002 with 20k miles on the bike i bought it in jan everyting was perfect til i done a service . Should of kept my 2000 fazer that never gave me any trouble . Thanks 2wheels il let u no asap

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Ok behind the sproket caseing is a lot of gunk . But ye ounce i remove that . Then undo the cable . Un hook the spring then undo two small screws the hole piece should come off . Then should i keep tje back part that the spring and cable attach to and just replace the front part . Do they come apart ?

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yea they come apart. ya just need the front part.

have you seen this part so,,,,, is it in bad shape.

dont panic 2 much,,, your bike will be good again.

ball-screw-housing-assy_medium1WG1630400

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Well with a bit of a fight with a screw that wpuldnt cum out and tools flying everywer o got tje part out . Mew part orderd so just a waiting game now ... will give me time.to.clean that aera up anyway

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well just back from a week in scotland and the new part has arrived . Tell me 2wheels do i need to greese it or anyting bfore i fit it ? Cant rember how it all goes back togetor now . Haha

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Put it all back togetor and its still happening. Heads wrecked !!!!

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Drained sum of the engine oil out down to the correct level and now its not over reving till i reach higher revs ????

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Aye kearny" you say over rev " you mean when you close throttle ,it still revs up ?

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No bfore id take the bike up the road and in every gear id get to 3-4 thousand revs and then the revs would shoot up but i wouldnt b goin faster . Now after draining some oil as i had two much in i can drive normal and reach 6-7 thousand revs bfore it would happen again . Ots like a power valve kicking in without the power if u get me

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The bike will drive normal if i bring up the revs slowly its only when i rev it a bit more it will over rev . But as i said its not happening now till i reach 6-7 thousand revs wen bfore i drained it was 3-4 thousand revs . Also just to ad there is a great bite on the clutch in 1st gear

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Thats clutch slip kearney" worn plates or weak springs, or bad adjustment, or contaminated friction plates [ wrong oil] :eusa_think:

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Bfore i go changeing the clutch plates i think il try different oil ... can anyone recomend a different oil to use ?

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Bfore i go changeing the clutch plates i think il try different oil ... can anyone recomend a different oil to use ?

I use,,,,,Silkolene 10w40 semi synthetic

Now back to adjusting clutch further,,, should right oil and free play not fix things.

Where the clutch cable enteres the side casing at the bottom,,,,,well just below this there is a rubber cover.

Pull it out,,, behind it there is a locknut and a screw. First fully slacken the cable at the leaver end. Then loosen the locknut,,,then unscrew the screw a few turns. Then tighten in the screw slowly untill you start to feel pressure,,,when you do fell pressure loosen the screw again by 1/8 turn and tighten the locknut,,,,,,rubber cover back on. Back up to leaver and set free play.

Did you adjust the clutch with the screw and locknut correctly,,,,,, then adjust it up at the handlebar

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