Moderator Airhead Posted January 21, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 21, 2013 Cleaning with compressed air alone isnt good enough kelum, you need to use one of those carb cleaner aerosols to disolve and dislodge the goo, and spray it into all orifices of the carb and jets...then do the compressed air blowing It might be best to keep carb cleaner away from rubberised parts though...such as diaphragms...remove these first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Cleaning with compressed air alone isnt good enough kelum, you need to use one of those carb cleaner aerosols to disolve and dislodge the goo, and spray it into all orifices of the carb and jets...then do the compressed air blowing It might be best to keep carb cleaner away from rubberised parts though...such as diaphragms...remove these first Diesle fuel fuel will work too soak the metal parts over night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted January 21, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 21, 2013 Diesle fuel fuel will work too soak the metal parts over night. yeah thats not a bad suggestion, cheap and available everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Thank guys, will do the cleaning that way. Do you think that glue like thing holding the diaphragm piston stuck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 I don't think thats the problem you said when you blew air across the opening it moved,also it won't stop it from starting,just from reving up. Just get the carb fully cleaned fill it with gas and the bike should start. You might still have a fuel delivery problem but one thing at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 I don't think thats the problem you said when you blew air across the opening it moved,also it won't stop it from starting,just from reving up. Just get the carb fully cleaned fill it with gas and the bike should start. You might still have a fuel delivery problem but one thing at a time. Yeah, it moves very well. Let me clean the thing first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi Guys...bike starting now. There was a leak in the air hose between carb and frame. I tried to place another rubber hose there but it was very much difficult to put something too rigid there, so I placed the same old on and tightened it with copper wires so that there will be no air leaks at the top of the carb where rubber hose and carb top meets. Right after mounting carb and gas tank and at PRI, the carb bowl overflew and the overflow hose kept draining gas. Float needle was ok when I checked if it seals properly blowing air across it, I should tap the bowl so if floater is stuck it should get ok. The issue was, the air - carb hose was having a leak and the slider or the piston did not move correctly to draw and deliver gas to the inlet manifolds. I had some high-reving issue too. That prob could be attributed to that leak. Pressure wasnt enough to move the slider so gas wasnt flowing into engine... If there are things u wanna add into this, pls share knowledge with me... Thank you all for help.. Kelum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi...I rode the bike and during the day it ran ok. But at night when temperature went down, the bike cranks but wont start. I know its the slider that is not moving well to deliver fuel. But when I bump start bike starts. When running even I feel like gas is cut off ( slider wont move ) but gets ok fast. membrane is not torn. When I blow some air the slider moves. What makes it stuck, I cleaned everything with ABRO carb cleaner. No glue there....Once bump started u can crank-start for several times. Like the slider lubricates and works for some time. But it wont work after some time... Are there carb repair kits? not on ebay.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Did you use the choke when cold? The slide isn't the problem with starting,the slide never shuts off the fuel only limits the amount.what rmp is you bike idleing at? Possibly you need to turn up the idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Did you use the choke when cold? The slide isn't the problem with starting,the slide never shuts off the fuel only limits the amount.what rmp is you bike idleing at? Possibly you need to turn up the idle My choke was not on the left handle. It was broken by early user and he had shortened it and placed on a long nut between frame and left air cleaner. I tried choke but the cable broke. In Sri Lanka however temperature has no big variation, so carb issues due to temperature, I havent heard! Carbs working without heaters even. These days however, night temperature is low and day is very hot. I didnt measure RPM for I have no means to, However, I rode bike around 40-50kmph. Pick up ok! Could you tell me how to adjust / set idle? Is that the big bolt u could even adjust with your fingers or the small one shown in the images below? I think I have set the big bolt to a point where engine runs very sluggishly, almost going to stop and catches up again level...sometimes it stops.. So are u telling me that the slider has nothing to do with this...??? Even if slider does not move, the bike still starts? What about the other screw in pic above? Could u explain what really the slider does and how idle screw/RPM set up cuts off fuel supply and does not start the beast? Sorry for all the questions, am just curious, must understand how carb works buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Yes, the Idle screw is in the red circle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 My choke was not on the left handle. It was broken by early user and he had shortened it and placed on a long nut between frame and left air cleaner. I tried choke but the cable broke. In Sri Lanka however temperature has no big variation, so carb issues due to temperature, I havent heard! Carbs working without heaters even. These days however, night temperature is low and day is very hot. I didnt measure RPM for I have no means to, However, I rode bike around 40-50kmph. Pick up ok! Could you tell me how to adjust / set idle? Is that the big bolt u could even adjust with your fingers or the small one shown in the images below? I think I have set the big bolt to a point where engine runs very sluggishly, almost going to stop and catches up again level...sometimes it stops.. So are u telling me that the slider has nothing to do with this...??? Even if slider does not move, the bike still starts? What about the other screw in pic above? Could u explain what really the slider does and how idle screw/RPM set up cuts off fuel supply and does not start the beast? Sorry for all the questions, am just curious, must understand how carb works buddy Ok 1st the idle is toolow turn the screw in ,circled red in you picture,it holds the throttle plate up enough to alow fuel/air in for starting and low rmp running (idle).Therefor if to low it won't get fuel from the pilot circut( the small hole in the top of the carb in front of the throttle plate,eng side) the small pilot screw in the first picture(you probably need to turn it out a 1/8 to 1/4 turn if the idle screw doesn't fix it)Puting the choke on also increases the vacuum available and richens the air/fuel mix,so after you get the bike idleing properly,make something to pull the choke closed for cold engine starting,when the eng is hot it can burn the gas easier and choke is not needed.Fuel is only delivered through the pilot for starting and idle thats why it dosen't matter what the slide does for starting only rmp changes. The slide moves because of the difference in pressure,when the throttle plate is open(the part that moves when you turn the throttle) it creats/allows the engine vacuum to enter the rest of the carb behind it,this in turn allows the vac to move above the piston( through ports in the top of the carb body ) that lifts the slide up.For more fuel delivery.This is why the diaphram above the slide must be sealed 100% no rips or holes. You don't need a rebuild kit for the carb you just need to fine tune it,if the diaphram had holes in it you wouldn't be able to rev up the eng. Whew hope that some what clears it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Hey thanks dt502001.. I appreciate the info. I turned the idle screw all the way in. cranked and cranked it still wont start. At the same position, I tried to bump start, but it is not easy like the earlier times. Yesterday also when it stopped, I had to ask someone to push. Earlier I didnt need anyone for bump starting, even without a slopy land with a very slight push with my legs she started. When I try to bump start, depending on the force I'm applying, bike tries to start. But it doesnt hold on. Does this indicate that slider doesnt work and fuel isnt drawn in, probably there's a vacuum leak in crank case? but there are no any oil leak even... :/ The small needle, through which a fine spray of gas goes over the slider and throttle chamber and is operated by the pump located externally on carb itself, has some leak, fuel dripping out slightly...does that mean the pump not doing its job correctly? Could that be the issue? Pulled up choke while cranking, no luck still! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 I left bike for some time with idle screw turned all the way in and started now. Yes it started. Does that mean the problem is over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Klum sorry I didn't mean turn it all the way in just a 1/2 or so more in to increase the idle. If you have turned it all the way in the bike should be running very high idle,is it ? If so turn it back out untill the bike idles nicely. The pump you speak of is the accelerator pump for a quick shot of gas between throttle openings,if it's leaking then it should be fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Klum sorry I didn't mean turn it all the way in just a 1/2 or so more in to increase the idle. If you have turned it all the way in the bike should be running very high idle,is it ? If so turn it back out untill the bike idles nicely. The pump you speak of is the accelerator pump for a quick shot of gas between throttle openings,if it's leaking then it should be fixed. Nope, bike is not reliable even after positioning idle screw at different turns. Yes at the maximum turn-in it revs high and seems dangerous even shifting gears doesnt happen well.. I turned it low but the issue is this... It doesnt start right away when cranking. Choking and pressing start button starts. Whats the reason? Am afraid to take her for long rides as I dont wanna struggle with it starting, bump start requires someone else's push. Normal self push wouldnt do. I have some doubt. let me explain with an image.. As above I told you I put some gasket like thing to fill the gap between two engine head inlets and carb joint. I feel like, I may have for sure, I havent cut the hole on the gasket to match that of the carb joint bore...there is a hole considerably big but I feel like its not enough so that I have this starting issue at any idle screw setting? Should I remove the carb joint again and match the gasket hole to that of manifold? I feel something like this happening, small hole is blocking gas flow into bore...it doesnt go easily through it but requires some extra force like heavy pushing... When playing with idle screw, I'm sure I may have tried all the turn positions so far, earlier there was an another carb joint which didnt need gasket...and there was no need to choke.... It doesnt start without choke easily, but easily starts with pushing by someone. With choke it starts. But there are such points it does not start even with choke... Sorry for being lengthy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Anyone pls? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Make the hole the same size in the gasket as the manofild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 If I recall correctly Kelum, your problems started when you fitted a non standard carb manifold, and then also fitted an additional gasket/spacer that is non standard. I'm with DT on this, make the hole in the gasket the same size as in the manifold, and make sure that it seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelum Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 If I recall correctly Kelum, your problems started when you fitted a non standard carb manifold, and then also fitted an additional gasket/spacer that is non standard. I'm with DT on this, make the hole in the gasket the same size as in the manifold, and make sure that it seals. Hm...I cannot exactly say it was a non-standard. It didnt fit well so I placed some spacers plus liquid gasket so there is no leak of vacuum for sure..but I have doubt that there is a hole issue..must fix it first.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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