I read something somewhere yesterday that you can tell that

your chain and sprocket need replacing by the chain adjuster

marks on your swing arm. Is this true?

I know it will depend on the bike etc, but how often should you

change them if you ride every day?

They were last changed six months ago, so I think they need

to be done.

Also is it worth paying more or am I just as well

getting a cheap set? Which would be best to

buy out of these examples?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-XT125X-2005-11-D-I-D-Chain-and-Sprocket-Standard-Kit-/150709236679?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2316f873c7

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XT125-X-SUPERMOTO-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKETS-KIT-05-09-/250905504755?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a6b222bf3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XT125-X-SUPERMOTO-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKETS-KIT-05-09-/250905504755?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a6b222bf3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XT125-X-SUPERMOTO-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKETS-KIT-05-09-/250905504755?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a6b222bf3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XT125-X-SUPERMOTO-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKETS-KIT-05-09-/250905504755?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a6b222bf3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XT125-X-SUPERMOTO-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKETS-KIT-05-09-/250905504755?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a6b222bf3

Cheers.

Did you even pay attention to anything said on your CBT?

Chain wear - as it slackens off, keep the tension correct using the adjusters at the rear of the swingarm. If you run out of adjustment and the chain is still hanging like a Portsmouth prossie's knicker elastic then the chain is fecked. If there are tight spots all over the chain, it's fecked. If the chain can be pulled away from the back of the rear sprocket, it's fecked.

Sprockets - wear is evident when the teeth round off or start to hook over. Either way, replace chain & sprockets as a set, putting new chain on old sprockets (or vice versa) will only wear the new component that much faster.

It's always worth paying more to get a known brand, DID and SSS chains are fine.

I ride shafties so I don't care these days.....

Did you even pay attention to anything said on your CBT?

Chain wear - as it slackens off, keep the tension correct using the adjusters at the rear of the swingarm. If you run out of adjustment and the chain is still hanging like a Portsmouth prossie's knicker elastic then the chain is fecked. If there are tight spots all over the chain, it's fecked. If the chain can be pulled away from the back of the rear sprocket, it's fecked.

Sprockets - wear is evident when the teeth round off or start to hook over. Either way, replace chain & sprockets as a set, putting new chain on old sprockets (or vice versa) will only wear the new component that much faster.

It's always worth paying more to get a known brand, DID and SSS chains are fine.

I ride shafties so I don't care these days.....

Did my instructor say anything about chain and sprockets, or even bike maintenance?

No he didn't.

From the information you have given me, it appears my chain is knackered.

Thanks for the reply.

hahaaha yep they tend to skip the maintenance bit of it.....

I've booked it in to be sorted at a garage next week. I have told him I want a

Renthal kit putting on. I was going to do it myself, but I really can't be arsed

and I don't have time at the minute. The mechanic said it will cost about £70

for the chain and sprocket set, and £48 to fit it, providing everything goes

smoothly. I am being a bit lazy not doing it myself but I know for a fact as soon

as I start it, something will fuck up and it will turn into a complete nightmare job.

????? 6 months is a short time unless you put on 20k miles. Biger cc bikes willeat chains faster because of the more hp/torque.But with the 125'shp you should be able to get at least 10k out of the chain.

You must be adjusting to tight/miss alingment or not oiling properly /often enough if your not getting 10k.+.

Are you using the axel blocks to center your rear wheel? If so stop they are crap! ....use a tapemeasure and ckeck from the swing axel to rear axel center.Also ru oiling the chain when cold or hot should be done hot tight spots are cause by thoes links not getting oiled.

As a rule of thumb you should be running 1 chain for ever 3 rear of tires.

????? 6 months is a short time unless you put on 20k miles. Biger cc bikes willeat chains faster because of the more hp/torque.But with the 125'shp you should be able to get at least 10k out of the chain.

You must be adjusting to tight/miss alingment or not oiling properly /often enough if your not getting 10k.+.

Are you using the axel blocks to center your rear wheel? If so stop they are crap! ....use a tapemeasure and ckeck from the swing axel to rear axel center.Also ru oiling the chain when cold or hot should be done hot tight spots are cause by thoes links not getting oiled.

As a rule of thumb you should be running 1 chain for ever 3 rear of tires.

I have done a minimum of 5k miles of hard riding. The last set I put on was a £30 job from eBay. I have been lubing the chain periodically, but I suppose I could of done it more often. I have some proper Motul lube. When I went to tighten the chain the other day, the wheel would not align if it was tight, so I had to slacken it off to make sure the wheel was aligned. I also noticed the chain is warped. I have been lubing the chain when cold.

Cheers dt

I have never really understood how bike manf came up with such a woefull method of chain care.

For such a fundamental performace item you would think they would do more with it. A badly set chain can cost you 10 To 15 per cent of your power.

Personally i ignore all the bull in the manual and when i have fitted a new chain i rachet the susp down to full comp THEN set the chain slack.

How on earth can an inch of slack with no load on say a 1200 be fine. Prob fine for a skinny bstd. What happens when fat bloke plus rally luggage gets on.

Its got to overload stuff like transmission and wheel bearings....

I totaly agree Cynic a slightly loose chain is better than a over tight one. You never know when someone needs a lift and throwing a extra 125-200lbs on a chain thats ot tight will over load the tranny/wheel bearings.

When you compare how loose I run the chain on the wr to the bandit one would think it would fall off ,but with the massive travel the wr goes through comming off a jump 30'ft high and landing fully compressing the suspension it has to be run that loose.

Not sure what you mean by" warped" Grouch ,But a 60 dollar chain is just that a decent oring or x ring chain DID ,RK,izumi will run 100.00+ . I know everyone will argue this but,if the sprockets are ok just spin on another cheap chain to get you through to march save the cost of changing the sprockets and labour And keep it well lubed. Doing gearing changes for different tracks I use the same chain on different sprockets all the time.

W

I totaly agree Cynic a slightly loose chain is better than a over tight one. You never know when someone needs a lift and throwing a extra 125-200lbs on a chain thats ot tight will over load the tranny/wheel bearings.

When you compare how loose I run the chain on the wr to the bandit one would think it would fall off ,but with the massive travel the wr goes through comming off a jump 30'ft high and landing fully compressing the suspension it has to be run that loose.

Not sure what you mean by" warped" Grouch ,But a 60 dollar chain is just that a decent oring or x ring chain DID ,RK,izumi will run 100.00+ . I know everyone will argue this but,if the sprockets are ok just spin on another cheap chain to get you through to march save the cost of changing the sprockets and labour And keep it well lubed. Doing gearing changes for different tracks I use the same chain on different sprockets all the time.

Warped means twisted. The chain is stretched and twisted, it is definitely knackered. It was April when it got replaced, I have just thought. It was that dickhead rip off con man wanker that did it. If anyone can remember my post, the mechanic ripped me off and lied to me. It must be the way he has fitted it that has affected the lifespan of the chain. In fact did he even fit a new chain and sprocket?

£48 labour?! I've done this on a GSXR600, took about 15 minutes.

Yeah thats what they charge for an hour, the chain and sprockets cost £70 but thats because I chose a good quality set. I could of done it myself, but couldn't be bothered. In the future I will be doing it myself. I need to put a new near brake disc on in the bear future. I'll be doing that myself.

£48 labour?! ...

£70 labour here

Good on you grouch! Other than saving money I think it's just a bit more rewarding when it all comes together after you've done it solo!

£70 labour here

Damn!!! You better learn some basic skills at least!

Good on you grouch! Other than saving money I think it's just a bit more rewarding when it all comes together after you've done it solo!

I've learned quite alot since getting my bike and am very capable at basic maintenece, but sometimes I cba or don't have time.