Keiran95 Posted October 19, 2012 Posted October 19, 2012 Hi all! basically when im at the traffic lights it trys to creep off from you when its idleing in first gear with the clutch in, soon as you give it a little bit of revs it stops. i really clueless to why its doing it because none of my bikes have ever done it before... hopefully its just the clutch cable is abit worn?? Thanks for reading hope someone can help me
dt502001 Posted October 19, 2012 Posted October 19, 2012 Try adjusting the cable first to the proper adjustment if no luck then change the oil.
Keiran95 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Posted October 19, 2012 i've adjusted the cable that connects to the hand lever but its made no difference, will changing the gearbox oil really help? really appriciate the help though matey
Moderator Cynic Posted October 19, 2012 Moderator Posted October 19, 2012 You need to check the adjuster at the gearbox, you may need to open her up though. YZ clutches are intended for life on a motocross track which we all know is a long way from town traffic. Slipping it may have warped the metal plates, they only need to warp by .1mm and you will have drag.
dt502001 Posted October 19, 2012 Posted October 19, 2012 Yep change the box oil out it's to thick for current temps,if that dosen't work then you need to replace the thrust washer or bearing on the end of the push rod.
Keiran95 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Posted October 19, 2012 sounds complicated, if i adjust it at the box and it still creeps forward is it a majoy issue? will it do damage? ifnot i dont think ill bother
dt502001 Posted October 19, 2012 Posted October 19, 2012 If left to drag it's going to wear the friction plates.Try changing the oil first,if you can't get it to adjust with the cable ,it needs to be done 1 x a year at least so noting to loose if it dosent help.
Keiran95 Posted October 24, 2012 Author Posted October 24, 2012 i cannot find how to adjust the cable at the box and the bloke who i bought the bike from said that it recently had the bottom end rebuilt? surely it would have had new oil, what oil should i replace it with?
kenDAWG Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 Am I correct In thinking that when the temperature outside drops the oil becomes more thick which Is causing the clutch plates some friction? This is happening to me on my dt125r at 6.00am on way to work but disappears after warmed up! I'm looking into thinner oil for winter. This is what I was told anyway! Cheers Ken
Ryan09 Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 I never had any problems with my dt? Rode all year in all conditions, I always warmed it up before setting off though. The yz should be able to be adjusted at the box. By the way are you riding a yz on L plates? =S
dt502001 Posted November 1, 2012 Posted November 1, 2012 Am I correct In thinking that when the temperature outside drops the oil becomes more thick which Is causing the clutch plates some friction? This is happening to me on my dt125r at 6.00am on way to work but disappears after warmed up! I'm looking into thinner oil for winter. This is what I was told anyway! Cheers Ken 100% correct ken either waste gas letting it warm up fully or change it out fot a lower # oil ie if your runin 80-90 try 75-90
Ryan09 Posted November 1, 2012 Posted November 1, 2012 Its only a 125, its not exactly going to waste any fuel and plus im sure its better for the engine to fully warm a bike up. Im not saying you do but i hate it when i see people start a bike and hammer it from cold! You could look at the other factor that you could be wasting decent oil which most likely costs more than a tiny bit of fuel.
kenDAWG Posted November 2, 2012 Posted November 2, 2012 sorry bud i dont hammer bike until its warm, you be lucky if im anywhere near 4500rpm through the gears after initial 5-10mins warm up... all im saying is the clutch plates still have alot of friction with the oil being cold on my bike which is in a little tin hut at the bottom of my garden, i would have to warm it up for 20 mins if i wanted to thrash it off the bat but i dont neither do i have time nor the neighbours or my little girl for the tinny noise of a 2 smoker at 6am i paid £1.5k for my dt and i aint gonna abuse it - thinner oil for winter is all it needs and would it not be a good idea to change oil atleast twice a year if so then you could easy replace oil with change in weather/tempretures. ken
dt502001 Posted November 2, 2012 Posted November 2, 2012 Yep with ken on this,infact when Ice racing we run automatic car tranny fluid in the 2x's gear box,,, the clutch pack in a auto and a bike are almost identical and the sun gears can spin faster in a auto than a bikes.I'd go with the oil change first.
Ryan09 Posted November 2, 2012 Posted November 2, 2012 Yep with ken on this,infact when Ice racing we run automatic car tranny fluid in the 2x's gear box,,, the clutch pack in a auto and a bike are almost identical and the sun gears can spin faster in a auto than a bikes.I'd go with the oil change first. I see what youre saying in this instance but i dont think it gets that cold in the uk to worry about these things. Its up to you ofcourse Ken, I was just saying that I never had any issues on my DT in the cold. (Was playing a bit of devils advocate as well in my last post). I used to change the oil once a year (thought that was enough) but obviously it could be worth a shot to see if it sorts your problem.
kenDAWG Posted November 3, 2012 Posted November 3, 2012 to be fair its been reaching very low temps through the night and at 6am its still really bitter where i live! im sure it was below zero with thick fog last week, i live a 5 min walk from the river tyne!! there in my opinion us 2 options here adjust your clutch cable and/or change oil or just do them both and report back to us and let us know how you got on... ryan09 i can understand why you think its not cold enough in uk and i dont mind people putting there argument/point of veiw across thats what this forum is for but do it again and i shall hunt you down and make you hurt lol only joking i had a 50cc automatic 2stroke a week or so back that wouldnt move off the spot revved up etc but no movement i couldnt fathem it out then a mate of mine that used to race 2 strokes changed the oil to thinner stuff and off it went - me scratching head wtf??? that prompted him to tell me that in the winter if i plan on using my bike (which i do with winter tyres on) i would prob need to change the oil especially once its reaching sub 0 temps. i only get problems with mine until i do a few gear changes and the plates are warmed up but when i first engage gear it jumps then creeps until it either stalls or i pull away the 2 mins down the road at the next junction its fine, i know its gonna get worse the colder it gets so gonna order some new oil soon. cheers ken
Ryan09 Posted November 3, 2012 Posted November 3, 2012 Haha brilliant. It has been nippy but not comparable to Canada. Give this stuff ago, i used to use it without any issues: http://www.visionmx.co.uk/castrol-mtx-1ltr-10w-40.ir
kenDAWG Posted November 3, 2012 Posted November 3, 2012 Haha brilliant. It has been nippy but not comparable to Canada. Give this stuff ago, i used to use it without any issues: http://www.visionmx....-1ltr-10w-40.ir ill keep that oil in mind... i havent changed the oil in mine since i bought it a couple of months ago so it might be the case for me that the oil is thicker than the yam recomend, unfortunatly i have no money and alot of stuff to buy... i need winter tyres aswell as christmas creeping up. ken
Ryan09 Posted November 3, 2012 Posted November 3, 2012 Winter tyres? I Used to use the same tyres all year round. a mitas ef-08 up front and a michelin ac10 on the rear. Theyre off road biased but i used to do a fair bit of greenlaning too, not bad prices either.
kenDAWG Posted November 3, 2012 Posted November 3, 2012 just got avons on at the min and there worn down alot and hopefully gonna get into the green lane riding soonish selling all my hydrophonics gear on ebay to get my bike ready ken
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