atocp Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Hey guys, This is just a quickie wiring question. I'm currently wiring up the rear light on my bike. Well actually, i've stopped to have dinner. A nice salad, with a cold meats selection. Really nice, you'd like it. It's healthy and appetising. Anyways, I replaced the light on my bike and the colours don't match, I was just wondering if anyone knew which colours matched with which? Old light was Black - Blue - Yellow. New light is Black/White - Red - Black I was thinking, keep black, black and check the others, but im not sure which I should pair up. Any ideas? You'd really like this salad by the way, its light enough to stop you feeling bloated, but filling enough not to leave you hungry. Cheers for any help you can give me, I'm away back out to the garage soon. Many thanks, atocp
Moderator Airhead Posted October 4, 2012 Moderator Posted October 4, 2012 yeah connect black to black that will be negative I'm positive as for the others, switch on the lights so that the tail light would be on, now connect to Blue whichever filament shines dullest . Connect brakelight (brightest) to yellow
atocp Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 when i connect the battery, the lights don't come one, possibly not enough charge. and i can't start it. any ideas how i should test it?? cheers, atocp
Moderator Airhead Posted October 4, 2012 Moderator Posted October 4, 2012 I'm making an assumption that the rear light should work from the battery providing the battery is good and the keyswitch and handlebar switches are in the correct 'lights ON' positions Try the horn can you her the thing even trying to hoot...any neutral and oil indicators?
atocp Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Oil and neutral indicators come one quite bright. Indicators don't work. Front lights don't work. Brake light doesn't work. I was kind of hoping that they drew more current that could be supplied without the engine running. Unfortunately, as its a 6v4Ah, and I'll end up blowing the rear lights, im going to go and quickly hook up some AA's to give me the 6v and low power. That way when I can get one filament to light but not the other, I'm getting the lesser of the two, and thats the blue. mmm...off to the garage I go. I hope i don't have to raid the remote controls in the house now. i'll be back on soon to let you know how it went. cheers, atocp
Moderator Airhead Posted October 4, 2012 Moderator Posted October 4, 2012 I wouldnt use the AA's all youll likely do is flatten them, if the battery is lighting the neutral/oil lamps its good enough to work with! I have to make an assumption the lighting works like my DT175, thats the key in 2nd position and left handlebar switch to light on posn, this brings on the tail light and a small pilot light in the headlamp bowl...the main headlamp only works from the engine running The brake light (yellow wire) should become live when the brake is pressed with the keyswitch in either of the first two positions
atocp Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Well, some good news and some bad news. Here's the good. Figured out the wire colours, and they - surprisingly - are as follows: Old Light: black - blue - yellow New Light: B/W - BLACK - RED The colours actually match as follows: B/W+black=(ground) - RED+yellow=(brake) - BLACK+blue=(tail light). mmm...confusing. I used the actual 6v4Ah battery and magically worked. I say magic, but im pretty sure physicists know whats going on. Now the bad news. After reading your last post, my electrics don't look too good, at the front. When the key is in the second position, the lights don't seem to function. No headlight/tail light/brake light/dipped beam/indicators. The horn is barely audible (although its an old horn, and could be completely shot - got a new one to fit. However, as I said previously, the neutral and oil light are bright. In fact, the oil light comes on even when full of oil, which to me says faulty oil gauge sensor, but maybe should be saying incorrect wiring? I have already started to take the wiring out the back of the bike, and im going to strip down the front either tomorrow night or saturday. The more I talk about it, the more I start to think I've got something either grounding at the front or I've wired up several things wrong. What else might cause the lack of lights when the ignition is on, the battery is 6.7V! Anyways, more good news. Along with the rather scrumptious salad, I've decided to have a lovely strawberry creme patisserie. This photos not mine, but it looks the closest to my dessert. Gotta balance the good and the bad right? Cheers, atocp
Moderator Airhead Posted October 4, 2012 Moderator Posted October 4, 2012 yeah who said old bike were a piece of cake! The oil light is always on in neutral no matter what level of 2 stroke oil is in there, it's like that as a bulb check facility and is a damned good idea. with a good level of oil in the tank it will extinguish when the bike is in gear. so...is the rear light working as I said then? key in 2nd posn...switch ON etc? The main healight only works with the engine I already said that, but if theres a small pilot that should work...I already said that too
atocp Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 yeah who said old bike were a piece of cake! boom boom The tail light and pilot light don't come on. They used to, back before i took the bike apart, but back then when you pressed the brake the indicator would come on, or you pressed the horn and the brake light would go. It was messed up. But at the moment, no, connecting it all up and putting on the ignition to posn 2, the rear light doesn't come on, on any sequence of handlebar buttons. cheers, atocp
Moderator Airhead Posted October 4, 2012 Moderator Posted October 4, 2012 you'll probably find something is not connected securely in the headlamp bowl, have you got a multimeter?
blackhat250 Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Oi" stop feeding your face, and buy 1 of these,,, there a must , leave that horn too. it will sound louder wen engine runs,, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-12-VOLT-CIRCUIT-TESTER-ELECTRICAL-PROBE-TEST-LAMP-for-CARS-VAN-BOATS-BIKES-/170830295925?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27c6477375
atocp Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Yeah Airhead, I've got a multimeter. The headlamp is a mess, so im going to rewire it and put on proper connectors etc, and insulate the connections with a little tape to make sure. Do that tomorrow night or Saturday. And blackhat, I've noticed the bracket for the new horn is differnt, so I'll leave it to save myself some bodgering. My multimeter has a beep/circuit function on it, is that the same as the circuit tester, just with sound rather than lighting up? Thanks, atocp
shambles1980 Posted October 5, 2012 Posted October 5, 2012 continuity test looks like a right pointing arwo pointing at a vertical line with a horisontal line running through it. hope that makes sence.. that would be used to check that one end of the wire is actually connected all the way through to the opposit end of the wire. "thats just checking the wire dosent have breaks in it or bad connection in the middle some wher. it is not for measureing power." your multimeeter would be used to measure 6/12v by setting it to the correct V --- "dc" or V~ "ac" then you wpuld put the black end on ground. and the red end to the source of the power.. "where it enters the horn/light/switch exetera or where it exits the switch, not the battery live" the multi meeter will tell you how m,uch power you get through.. so its better than the tester above. as it is more accurate. "it dosent really mater which way you have the red and black wires, it will just show a - infront of the reading if they are backwards."
atocp Posted October 5, 2012 Author Posted October 5, 2012 Hey shambles, thanks for the info. I took apart all the wiring at the front inside the headlight - which was a mess - and pulled it all out. Re-wired it all back up based on the colour coding in the Haynes diagram. I used the continuity check when trying to figure out which wires of the same colour were connected to what. I'm going to use the voltage setting once I try it again with everything connected (but not put back in, better test while its out!!), but for now, I have to wait for the battery to charge. Tested it a little before I took it apart and it dropped a few couple of volts. On a related, side note. I seem to have an extra wire. Its thinner than the rest, and is coming from the left hand instruments stalk. There are 3 lights, Indicator, High Beam and Neutral. There is a connector block coming out of it (with Brown-Blue-Black-Green)...and a yellow? The yellow is just sitting there. As I say, its thinner than the others, but is not on the diagram and not accounted for anywhere. The yellow in the headlight connects to a double spade connector, and then down through the loom, but only connectes to one side of the double connector. Is this mystery yellow, thats not on the diagram, meant to connect into the second side, so along with the headlight, it will maybe light up the High Beam? Im worried to connect it up, as the bulb in the instrument panel is only a 3W, whereas the headlight is 25W, so I don't want to blow anything. Or is it a redundant wire that would be used to fit an after-sales part to the bike? I'm going back out in an hour once the battery has finished charging. I think between now and then I'm going to watch the Great British Bake Off on iPlayer. Many thanks for the advice, and any suggestions as to what this weird yellow wire is. As usual, its going to be something really simple and logical, but I just cant work it out. Cheers, atocp
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