Sir Puma Posted September 9, 2012 Posted September 9, 2012 So I've been working on this bike for a bit now. I started with a much needed oil and differential fluid change and replaced the spark plugs. That got it running. But since I had so much fuel in the oil I ordered a new fuel tap. Just got it in the other day and replaced it yesterday. I've got new Dunlop D404 tires on order for it and should have them Monday or Tuesday. That will give me more confidence in riding it on the highways. The brakes are ok for now but they'll need replacing by next spring or summer. But I've noticed while riding as I get it up to around 40 or 50 mph, with rpm around 5000-6000 in the mid gear range it seems like the clutch is slipping. My rpm will jump a little while not getting any power to the rear but then the rpm will slowly drop (without change in throttle) and my power will suddenly jump. I'm thinking come spring I'll need to tear the engine apart and put in new clutch plates and while I'm at it new piston rings.
Sir Puma Posted September 9, 2012 Author Posted September 9, 2012 Oh, actually I forgot. The very first thing I had to do was get a new battery in it. I would love to get all the emblems and decals for it, but I don't think they are available. There's also lots of little things like the clutch cable boot up on the grip needs replacing, stuff like that.
tobi evans Posted September 11, 2012 Posted September 11, 2012 I have a 700 maxim, not quite the same i know, but my clutch slips the same, it doesnt always do it though so its hard to tell if its worn or just to much power but think i will wait until its really bad before changing it.
Sir Puma Posted September 13, 2012 Author Posted September 13, 2012 One other issue I'm now having. The bloody speedometer is screaming like a banshee caught in a rat trap. I've tried greasing the cable and the gear point where the cable goes into the back of it but I can't get the trip meter knob off to get the whole thing out and can't figure out where to oil to make it stop screaming. Dang thing's louder than the engine.
dt502001 Posted September 13, 2012 Posted September 13, 2012 You should do the clutch before you burn up the steel plates it will save you lots of$$$ it's a 1/2 hr job. To get the trip knob off look inside the end you will see a small philips scerw. the whole speedo comes apart from the back side to be able to change the bulb. For the badges start hunting the bike wreckers
Sir Puma Posted September 13, 2012 Author Posted September 13, 2012 Thanks for the tip on the trip knob. However my speedo just died. I wonder if I can get it working again.
Moderator Airhead Posted September 13, 2012 Moderator Posted September 13, 2012 dont know the bike! is it a cable driven speedo from the front wheel hub?
Sir Puma Posted September 14, 2012 Author Posted September 14, 2012 Yep. The speedometer inside was screaming, then today it started sticking on something and finally spun around and snapped the needle off. There isn't a screw in the knob so I cut the case to get it out. If I can figure out something to fix the needle with then I might be set. As it is I can get a new one off ebay for only $200. Wish I could find one for a fair price. I might see if I can figure out an after market setup and just change out the gauges all together. **** Update**** Well I managed to find an instrument cluster for $50 so I'll need to jump on that.
Sir Puma Posted September 14, 2012 Author Posted September 14, 2012 Well, I may have my speedo fixed. I spent some time with some smooth bearing grease getting it into the mechanism and all the gears. Tested it with a stiff wire and my Foredom tool to spin it. not making noise now. Then some very thin spring wire bent and super glued to the central needle and painted with a little red sight paint. Need to test it out on the highway tomorrow and see if it works and is accurate. If so I just saved myself some money.
dt502001 Posted September 14, 2012 Posted September 14, 2012 I know this is a day late and a dollar short but did you try left hand thread to remove the knob?
Sir Puma Posted September 15, 2012 Author Posted September 15, 2012 I know this is a day late and a dollar short but did you try left hand thread to remove the knob? No, but the way it sits on the shaft I think it was hot pressed on and wasn't meant to be removed. But I did take the bike out and put about 35 miles on it and the speedometer worked perfectly. I'll have to take a pic of the fix.
blackhat250 Posted September 15, 2012 Posted September 15, 2012 Hi puma" the clutch slip could be the wrong oil, dont use Automobil oil ,as they have anti friction addatives , use a good M.C, gearbox oil,
Sir Puma Posted September 18, 2012 Author Posted September 18, 2012 Hi puma" the clutch slip could be the wrong oil, dont use Automobil oil ,as they have anti friction addatives , use a good M.C, gearbox oil, Just for giggles I went and purchased "motorcycle" 10W40 at the local cycle shop (Kawasaki oil). Changed the oil just to see if it would help. Nope. Clutch still slips all over the place, especially when I try and put the power down.
Moderator Airhead Posted September 18, 2012 Moderator Posted September 18, 2012 well then assuming you have a little slack in the clutch cable... 1: your clutch needs adjusting (see the manual) or 2: your friction plates are worn out and need replacing hopefully 1:
Sir Puma Posted September 19, 2012 Author Posted September 19, 2012 No slack in the cable, the clutch handle works fine and it shifts fine. It's just when I pour on the power the RPMs jump through the roof but there's no power output to the rear wheel. If I gradually increase throttle it'll speed up ok but I can hear the RPM fluctuate as the clutch slips. I already have new friction and clutch plates on order along with new springs. Doing some research it looks like an easy job.
Moderator Airhead Posted September 19, 2012 Moderator Posted September 19, 2012 Dohh there needs to some slack in the cable of course!
dt502001 Posted September 19, 2012 Posted September 19, 2012 Ya puma you should have 1/8 of a inch at the lever to mount free play if the cable is too tight the clutch can't fully engauge.
Sir Puma Posted September 19, 2012 Author Posted September 19, 2012 Ya puma you should have 1/8 of a inch at the lever to mount free play if the cable is too tight the clutch can't fully engauge. Well, I went out this morning before even having my tea and checked on the cable. I was able to run the tension nut at the handle in about a half inch before the cable started to slacken up. Took her out for a test run and holy crapola, so much better. Thanks so much for the suggestion. I'll hang on to the parts when they come in, eventually it'll need rebuilding and it won't hurt to actually have the parts on hand. But now when I put the power down, it puts the power down. And when I'm at speed and put the power down, no slipage, just power. I'm much happier now. Thanks agan.
Moderator YamaHead Posted September 19, 2012 Moderator Posted September 19, 2012 Glad you sorted your clutch woes Puma...... When the time comes, swapping out a clutch on these XJ's is a piece-o-cake.
dt502001 Posted September 19, 2012 Posted September 19, 2012 Glad it's fixed but the credit goes to Airhead he's the one who asked the right question,I just told you how much play you should have.Just glad we could help
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