jbhome Posted August 27, 2012 Posted August 27, 2012 He's back. Rather be riding but... When I got the bike, there was a tube going from a fitting on the side of the carb in line with the slide, to a second fitting at the lower front/engine side of the carb. Both fittings are on the side opposite the choke pull. There was a third fitting with a tube going to the oil pump. Seemed correct but now I'm not so sure. In thinking about it, isn't the bottom fitting on the float bowl the overflow, and shouldn't it just go back between engine and frame. The fitting nearest the cylinder would seem a logical place for the oil fitting, leaving the one on the throttle slide??? With hoses fitted as originally purchased, the bike starts, idle picks up then engine dies. I plugged the end of the tube going to the engine side of the carb (vs air cleaner side) and connected the line from the oil pump to the fitting on the throttle slide and things worked better but still not right. Haven't been able to find any pictures of this area nor is there any good detail in the parts schematics. Regards, Jim
nayruf Posted August 27, 2012 Posted August 27, 2012 Hi Jim I believe you are correct the hose on the bottom of the carb is the float chamber overflow, the hose in the side is also a breather, on my DT twinshock both of these are routed down the rear of the engine under the air box. Aj
Moderator Airhead Posted August 27, 2012 Moderator Posted August 27, 2012 This any help Jim? Overflow, vent and battery breather tube push down between the engine and the swing arm pivot
jbhome Posted August 27, 2012 Author Posted August 27, 2012 Thanks for the responses. Hopefully this clears the problem. I replaced both crank seals and in the process, had to pull out and re-install the kickstart shaft. Now when/if the bike starts, I get a ratcheting sound from it even though the lever is all the way up. what am I missing? jim
Moderator Airhead Posted August 27, 2012 Moderator Posted August 27, 2012 did you fit the return spring in the right place...in the locating hole as pictured?
jbhome Posted August 28, 2012 Author Posted August 28, 2012 Hi mod, Thought I did but will check. update on starting. starts first kick on choke but as it warms, there is no idle. Keeping it around 4-5k will keep it running but release throttle and it dies. haven't replaced o-ring on idle mix adjust needle but would expect that to move adjust setting at most. guess I get to pull that apart again too. Arrggh would like one ride fore it snows.
Moderator Airhead Posted August 28, 2012 Moderator Posted August 28, 2012 yeah sounds like you need to strip and clean the carb again paying particular attn to the pilot jet and the bypass hole, use a carb cleaner aerosol and straw...and compressed air if you have it available
Wrenchface Posted August 29, 2012 Posted August 29, 2012 yeah sounds like you need to strip and clean the carb again paying particular attn to the pilot jet and the bypass hole, use a carb cleaner aerosol and straw...and compressed air if you have it available Check for intake leaks too.
jbhome Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 what's the best way to do that. I took off the intake manifold and chkd the reeds. They looked ok but the gasket was toast. I made a new one and used grease on if rather than gasket goo. Will the rubberized side seal to the carb fitting?
jbhome Posted September 20, 2012 Author Posted September 20, 2012 ok finally it works. first comment ... Never assume. I assumed the bike was in factory state....WRONG as noted earlier, oil seal in oil pump blown oil o/p line connected to float bowl overflow fitting throttle slide hose connected to oil input fitting on carb main jet needle clip set 1 down from normal/center position air cleaner backwards in box. This was the last issue the bike now revs freely, doesn't smoke and pulls like a champ Never assume. now maybe I can get a ride in before the white stuff comes and clean it up over the winter. thanks everyone for your help, and patience in resurrecting my new ride jim
jbhome Posted September 21, 2012 Author Posted September 21, 2012 Well I thought I was done. This is regarding the kickstart not disengaging. The picture above doesn't show the parts behind the gear. There is a lobe on the shaft the limits the travel of the shaft (foot off kickstart /foot and kickstart at lowest position). There is also a large spring clip that should ride in a groove on the back of the gear on mounted on the kickstart shaft. In my case this came off/moved and was sitting between the gear and the case limiting the gear's ability to clear the clutch gear. The spring clip, slides on the gear but... has enough friction when you kick, to stop the drive gear from turning. This in turn causes the gear to run up the spline on the kickstart shaft and engage the clutch gear and start the engine. In my case, there was not enough tension on the spring so a little bending was required to ensure it properly engaged the gears. It would sure be nice if there were pictures of this. I have a service manual that has phrases like install and remove. I for one expect a little more from a manual. It's kind of like putting an open door sticker on a locked door to a room. I know I want to open the door. The question is how. So much for my rant. On step closer to being done.
dt502001 Posted September 22, 2012 Posted September 22, 2012 ASSUME Makes a ASS u ME LOL I have got to agree manuals can be just a wee I---------------------------------------------------I bit vauge at times normaly when u need the most info.
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