jbhome Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Well I guess I'm back again just chaulk full questions. I'm replacing the clutch side crank seal and not sure how to disconnect the oil line from the clutch side cover to the oil tank. any suggestions gratefully accepted. I got the inner clutch basket retaining bolt off with my impact wrench but not sure how to torque it back on as I don't have the appropriate wrench. on the same note what's the best way to bend the locking plate up to secure the nut? let's hope it runs ok after this. After sitting for a couple of days it starts right up with a fair amount of smoke??? As the pump is disconnected runs for a while and then dies. have a great day/ride Jim 92 FJ 79 DT175 73 CT90 2012 raspberrie pi 2012 Mendel prusa.
Moderator Airhead Posted August 7, 2012 Moderator Posted August 7, 2012 Well I guess I'm back again just chaulk full questions. I'm replacing the clutch side crank seal and not sure how to disconnect the oil line from the clutch side cover to the oil tank. any suggestions gratefully accepted. I got the inner clutch basket retaining bolt off with my impact wrench but not sure how to torque it back on as I don't have the appropriate wrench. on the same note what's the best way to bend the locking plate up to secure the nut? let's hope it runs ok after this. After sitting for a couple of days it starts right up with a fair amount of smoke??? As the pump is disconnected runs for a while and then dies. have a great day/ride Jim 92 FJ 79 DT175 73 CT90 2012 raspberrie pi 2012 Mendel prusa. Hi Jim yeah removing the oil lines can be a bit of a pain theg grip the serrated spigots quite well, no amount of pulling then will do the job! You will have to slide back any metal clips warm the end of the lines some to make the pipe more pliable, then push the lines off the spigots , dont forget if you have oil in your tank you will need to drain it either before of after the biggest pipe is removed All a bit of a pain really, I wouldnt bother...just tie the blighter up out of the way and you can leave the feed pipe connected but you'll hace to disconnect the output pipe though, take care you dont lose the washer that goes onto the tacho drive gear shaft it always falls off and remember to re-fit it after youve done see the bootlace around the exhaust bracket you'll need a torque wrench to torque up the basket nut and you should fit a new tab washer, they come partly re-bent so are easy to get hold of with some sliding jaw gland type pliers...easy you will need to slacken both crank nut and basket nut together if you haven got a basket holding tool, I understand that the usual way is to stuff a bunch of rags between the pinions to lock them, although I have always used a tool myself, dont forget to replace the little 'o' ring on the crankshaft...under the collar
dt502001 Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 If you have a welder or access to one, buy a extra steel clutch plate and weld a arm on it that always works for me for the center basket. For the crank I use a piece of nylon block and jam up the basket and crank gears.
jbhome Posted August 7, 2012 Author Posted August 7, 2012 thanks for the quick reply everyone. I did the cloth thing with the crank bolt but I'm still unclear about the clutch nut as the basket is now free. I would like nut torque specs if possible as well on another note, I'm broken hearted. The last bit from my impact tool bought when I had 71 ct175 broke. The tip just gave op. sniff. Small tear down cheek. so good at undoing those challenging map Phillips screws. now to find new bits in I can order that. For you land.
Recommended Posts