beef Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 sweet, will be around then for a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 10, 2012 Moderator Share Posted August 10, 2012 no probs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 work has not stopped. just that i am cleaning and checking all the mechanical bits at the min ready for the re-build. any one have a good place for gaskets? have seen then on e-blag but was hoping some one may have a good source. also need to replace various screws and nuts and bolts prior to the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted August 15, 2012 Moderator Share Posted August 15, 2012 I scour ebay for the cheapest but ATM they are being a bit silly £30 I expect to pay £25 for the 400 set. for nutz and boltz I use A2A4 fixings and they are stainless, you can buy as little as you want and have always been great. If you want to push the boat out INOX do a crankcase kit in stainless or try Mr Fastener for BZP. custom fasteners are also a company I use is you look on xs400.net (its German) they have buried in there a complete list of all the fasteners for the 250/400. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 have had a spare couple of hours today. so i did some tidying up of the garage and decided to do a dry build up of the engine to see if there would be any major issues with the replacement parts and my original parts. plus it meant that the bits where together and not spread across the garage. so it all went together with out to many hiccups... still need to blast the top end. 1 the bolts on the underside need to be placed in the holes prior to the lower cases going into the jig. because there is not enough clearance between the jig rail and the engine case to push it in after engine is in the jig. 2 the top nuts need to be taken off before putting any of the engine together as when i was unscrewing them i dropped one into the lower engine.... good job its only a dry build up :oops: 3 there is a load of allen bolts from the outter casings missing, these were not there when i got it so need to replace them with correct ones. also decided on the colours for the powder coating.. the engines outter cases will be powder coated silver, everthing else will be gloss black, as for the tank i am undecided am going for minimal polished areas as this will be my commuter bike, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted September 2, 2012 Moderator Share Posted September 2, 2012 I would not recommend powder coating the engine as it will act as an insulator on the aircooled engine. they do get pretty hot. yam just painted theirs amd lasts well if you do it right ie prep the paint area first. you can still get allen bolt kits from INOX fasteners for £10 in stainless which is good value and the stainless is top stuff. EN85 I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 having not had the time or money to do any more on the xs i managed to get in the garage today and have a look where i was up to and then came in and hit the internet to find the bits i need, i have found a gasket set and the various oil seals i need but i can not get hold of the crank plane bearings... i can get one but not a set... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XS250-XS400-79-BEARING-PLAIN-CRANKHAFT-/360439939774?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item53ebe502be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 8, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 8, 2013 I got mine from motoward, you need the correct type. Part # starts off with 1L9-11416- then 00 blue, 10 black, 20 brown and 30 Green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 I got mine from motoward, you need the correct type. Part # starts off with 1L9-11416- then 00 blue, 10 black, 20 brown and 30 Green. cheers for that, they have them in stock at a reasonable £4.50 each. just need to work out which ones i need now. the guy said i had to measure the diametre of the shaft and the housing in the case and then there was something else to do but he couldnt remember what..... any one help??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 You need to subtract the difference and know what the aceptable clearence is. If the crank has been turned down or needs to be then you need the larger shells.00stock .20 crank has been turned down .20" ect...This may have been done at the factory Also if you look closly at the bearing you will see a small dot on the side with the appropiate colour Best thing to do is to pick up some plastigauge and assemble with old shells and see if they are worn beyond use most likely they are still good. Plastigauge is easy to use just put a strip on the bearing and torque it all down then disasemble and measure how wide it is with the gauge on the package,presto you know the clearance of the assembly and if they are still good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 9, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 9, 2013 big end bearing housing #3 crank pin dia # 1 = blue big end bearing housing#4,crank pin # 2 =black big end bearing housing #5 crank pin no # = Brown big end bearing housing no# crank pin no # = Green do you have a haynes manual? its in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 yeah i do and that is what it said in there and thats what i was about to order but the guy was adament that the different colours were different sizes and there fore i needed to measure the crank and housing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 www.plastigaugeusa.com you still need to figure out what thickness/clearence you need to measure The min/max clearence in the manual is what you need.Any machine shop will have it and you don't need to buy a case of 100. Or measure the crank and case subtract crank from case the difference minus the min clearence and thats the bearing you need.You could try and measure up the old bearings and order them that way if the supplier can confirm the ones they have are the same but most likely not. Not every crank from the factory is the same size. For example the 80-88 kz 750 used 2 crank dia's the smaller one34.984mm had no marks on the flywheels the thicker 34.995had a o stamped on the fly wheels completly interchangeable but you need the right bearing. I don't know enough about the 250 but I'm guessing thats the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 10, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 10, 2013 yeah i do and that is what it said in there and thats what i was about to order but the guy was adament that the different colours were different sizes and there fore i needed to measure the crank and housing... tell us what colour you got and i'll give you the info you need, ie part number Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 tell us what colour you got and i'll give you the info you need, ie part number eeeeerrrrrr i aint got them.. as they were rusted and got bent and misshapen when removing i binned them with out knowing how hard it would be to replace them. as i was reading the haynes book and it said, blue in slot one brown in two or what ever it was i just thought they would be the same going back in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Can you say oops,guess your goin to have to measure it all out. Take your time and measure everything 2x your going to need a snap gauge and a good micrometer or veriner caliper. It's a honest mistake for a first timer but I know you will never throw anything out before you have the new to compare to the old now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 Can you say oops,guess your goin to have to measure it all out. Take your time and measure everything 2x your going to need a snap gauge and a good micrometer or veriner caliper. It's a honest mistake for a first timer but I know you will never throw anything out before you have the new to compare to the old now. they were fecked, all bent and misshapen to shit so not good for keeping. they were rusted to the case. if i could of kept them i would. i kept all sorts of other bits as i took them off and bagged and tagged them.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted January 12, 2013 Moderator Share Posted January 12, 2013 eeeeerrrrrr i aint got them.. as they were rusted and got bent and misshapen when removing i binned them with out knowing how hard it would be to replace them. as i was reading the haynes book and it said, blue in slot one brown in two or what ever it was i just thought they would be the same going back in... follow this then... big end bearing housing #3 crank pin dia # 1 = blue big end bearing housing#4,crank pin # 2 =black big end bearing housing #5 crank pin no # = Brown big end bearing housing no# crank pin no # = Green Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beef Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 well i aint done much to the xs, reasons being have been sorting out a few bits with my recently aquired cx500, have been helping my mate sort his gt550 and have had no money. i have received the seat unit and sat it on the bike and had a measure and figure out of what needs doing to make it work. it will need triming and a base making to make it work just right but it is the unit for the bike have decided on the colours, red and black. the red will be for the grafix, that are currently gold and white, and possibly a racing strip on the tail unit. i think i might also metal flake the red. the frame, fork lowers, yokes, swing arm, risers, side stand will all be powder coated black engine will be painted silver. seat pad will be black with red piping. and i am undecided on the wheels. dont know if i should powber coat them black or paint them black and red? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted March 4, 2013 Moderator Share Posted March 4, 2013 that's the same seat I have on the tracker. It fits if you cut the top loop out and I also cut out the indicator mounts. then made a tubular frame to support the seat. its in my tracker blog if you want to look I assume you are fitting those Aprilia forks on I see in the background? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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