doc-hoc Posted July 20, 2012 Posted July 20, 2012 Hi all Hope someone can help, I have suddenly develpoed a problem today my clutch lever does not spring back out it is just sitting against the handle bars and off no use at all. I have tried a few things all ready but to no advail ,I have tried adjusting the cable at the handle bars and at the two adjusting nuts at the crank case ,i have changed the cable and the spring on the little swingarm i have changed the position of the swing arm and still can not adjut it to be able to use the clutch i can manage to set the clutch lever but it is far to hard to pull the lever in and the clutch still has bad drag . Dont really want to open crank case unless i have to. The guy in this vid has the same problem but i cant seem to remedy mine i hope someone can help as i have a blooming long walk to work at the mo nearly 4 miles so quite desperate for a solution [im in the guildford area] , Thanks for any suggestions all will be appreciated
dt502001 Posted July 20, 2012 Posted July 20, 2012 Did you put the right cable on? If so Sorry your going inside you need to check /replace the clutch, to make it easy tip the bike on its side and lean it against a wall with the wheels chocked so it can't roll Put a zip tie on the front brake lever so the brake is on good. so all the oil runs to the other side this will save you havin to drain the oil.Pop out the 12 or so screws and pop off the cover undo the six bolts with springs under them and off come the pressure plate. Check your springs check the plate thickness note the direction of the steel plates they go in at different points on some modles so take them out 1 at a time and they have a sharp edge and a rounded edge on the outer edge of the steel sharp goes in..check the fingers on the basket, if badly noched up you can file them smooth but don't let the fileings fall in the motor.. if you find a broken plate you need to change the oil and filter bits will be in the oil. If all check out good the bearing at the cam end may have colapsed then you need to pull the other cover off and check the cam and bearing. Doing it this way I can replace a clutch in about 15 minutes LOL I type slow probably could have half the job done by now.
doc-hoc Posted July 20, 2012 Author Posted July 20, 2012 Thanks you for the advice, i spoke to my local bike garage and they said it sounds like the Thrust bearing to him as he has done a couple all ready this year about 2 hours labour £150 total with parts [thats if its that ] so is it easy enough for me to try ?
Moderator Airhead Posted July 20, 2012 Moderator Posted July 20, 2012 £150 must be worth buying a manual for then mike1949 is a forum regular so he might give you some advice if you ask nicely
dt502001 Posted July 21, 2012 Posted July 21, 2012 .No kidding Air head, but it also will require a few tools 8mm 10mm socket, and a rachet haha. I would just pop it open and have a look first as I said in my 1 st post it realy isnt that hard. And if you can't figure it out then put it back together with the old gasket and take it in. Nothing to loose. If it's the thrust washer on the end of the push rod that runs from the right to left as soon as you have the pressure plate off your there, it's the little flat bearing that fits behinde the pressure plate on the end of the push rod. It will just pull out of the center of the inner hub becarful to not drop the ballbearing that fits right behind it ,normaly they stay in but pul it out slowly with your hand under to catch it if it come out with the push plate( this is what will move if you slowly pull in the clutch lever and what actualy pushes the pressure plate to dis engage the clutch) pop the cir clip off and the washer and inspect it. Check the center and outer hub for play should be none, Pull out a friction plate and look at it I don't have the min spec for your bike but most are 2.7mm thick minum,, 2.9-3.1mm normal. But you wern't having any problems with slipping right? To adjust the free play after you put in a new bearing remove your cable and re positon you arm back to where it was.... loosen the nut and turn the adjusting screw (this is the screw in the center of thepressure plate) in till it bottoms back it out 1/8 of a turn and tighten the lock nut. put your cable back on and make sure everything works before you put the eng. cover back on. Realy this isnt that hard and you will have to wait till next week to get you bike in the shop so why not have a go at it, like I said if you cant figure it out just put it back together. I will check in tommorow to help if need be
mike1949 Posted July 21, 2012 Posted July 21, 2012 I think I know what your problem is. First of all. Have you had your clutch cover off, maybe to change the thrust bearing or washer? If the answer is yes, then the solution is trying to line up the position of the push lever that engages into the clutch (the bit the clutch cable connects to on the engine) What you have to do is, and it could envolve removing the clutch cover several times is turn the lever to the left until it engages with the rod push assy (the part that goes through the thrust bearing and washer and pressure plate) It looks like to me that the lever is to far forward and is just floating in air. I hope this helps, if not pm me,
mike1949 Posted July 24, 2012 Posted July 24, 2012 When you take the clutch cover off, put the bike on the side stand then you wont have to drain the oil and it will be easier to work on. Also, when you take the bolts out they are of different lengths so make sure you put them back in the right places. When you think the lever is lined up only put a couple of bolts in and carefully try the clutch lever after connecting back the cable just in case you have to re-align it again. If memory serves me right when you align the push rod I think you want the teeth to point towards the rear of the bike. Be careful not to damage the gasket. If youv'e got a Haynes manual have that open it really is a big help because it shows an exploded view of the clutch. As suggested in an earlier post, I dont think the clutch bearing is causing the lever to behave like it is. But it might be wise to check it while your in there. I hope all goes well.
doc-hoc Posted July 24, 2012 Author Posted July 24, 2012 I think i may have found the problem This is what is left of my thrust bearing and washer,, new parts ordered new bearing /washer/springs /gasket all for the sum of £38 from yamaha ,i've got to wait three working days but this must be the problem so fingers crossed. Will let you know what happens when i get the parts ,,,Cheers for all the help so far ,,,,Andy
Sacha Posted July 24, 2012 Posted July 24, 2012 Well it's definitely a problem even if it's not the problem right? here's hoping that fixes it.
Moderator Airhead Posted July 24, 2012 Moderator Posted July 24, 2012 could be serious consequences if you dont recover every last piece of the cage and roller bearings...for example I only count 5 rollers!!
doc-hoc Posted July 27, 2012 Author Posted July 27, 2012 Hi all, i received my parts today and will fix then tomorrow ,however i have noticed that one side of the thrust bearing is flat and one side appears to be slightly sunken ,so the question is what way around does it go ,,,cheers andy
doc-hoc Posted July 28, 2012 Author Posted July 28, 2012 Rport time ,bike back together ,been out for 20 min run it selects all gears nicely no clunking either up or down ,no clutch drag at all and strangely bike even sounds better ,,, Just a case of setting the clutch to my preference and job job [lets hope it stays that way]. Thank you all for your help in solving this matter ,bike shop wanted £150 and i paid a grand total of £43 [including new socket for torque wrench] so a grand saving of £107 quid and its built up my confidence to attempt more . So once again Thanks all for the advice Andy :spin2:
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