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silverstreak
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hey guys! i really need help with my 1977 yamaha dt 175! whats going on is the the higher you go up in the gears the slower it gets, 1 and second arnt bad but 3 it kinda flutters and wont have a normal rev to get into the next gear. ive had the carb apart myself and cleaned it out, then i took it to a so called "mechanic" and soaked me for 188 bucks, he said that the rubber between the carb and the air filter had a hole and was sucking in dust, so he put a new rubber on and it still does the same thing! after i got it back from this mechanic it was really bad, the thing would be hard starting and would flutter really bad. then it quit on me 5 miles away from home and i had to push it back, i was pissed, for 188 dollars the thing should run like new. anyone know whats going on?

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Hi silverstreak, Not an answer to your question I'm afraid but IF you do an "INTRO" in new members section then people will talk to you about your problem, LOTS of owners of your bike on here but they are reluctant to talk to people who DON'T give an intro. More a courtesy thing really as it's nice to know who your taking to and they are not a one hit wonder. :jossun:

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ran ok for a while, it does have good compression and good spark, i did put a new ngk plug in it. its getting the fuel, i put new lines and a new filter and when you turn the switch to ON the gas just pours out

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ran ok for a while, it does have good compression and good spark, i did put a new ngk plug in it. its getting the fuel, i put new lines and a new filter and when you turn the switch to ON the gas just pours out

you mean it's overflowing???

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Hi SS

If as Airhead asks the carb is constantly over flowing. The float or needle valve could be stuck,

You said in your intro the points have been set, My Dt is can be very sensitive to the points gap (Did you lock the advance weight with a match when you set the points?) it is easy to create a short in the magneto particually at the joint where the points connect to the condenser, I even had one set of points that had a worn 'plastic foot' this allowed the points to short against the magneto cam at higher revs, I would also look at replacing the condenser if you havent already, also get a magneto puller it will save you having trouble getting the magneto off, the more info you can supply the more useful the answers will be.

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i meant to say the carb is getting gas! no lack of fuel but when the bike leans over one way to far some gas will leak out the bottom, the bike was running after i set the points, i have a clymer manual for the bike and it says the points could be pitted but i put them in brand new. my grandpa set them. im wondering if the carb is still dirty, would that create the problem im having?

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When I set the points on my DT I always lock the advance as per the manual, I have found that this way I seem to get the the engine to run better possibly because I get the gap closer to the ideal setting,

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so it still could be the points eh? i bought it and the guy said his wife rode it 2 years ago.... when i took the carb off and looked inside, it was more like 20 years ago. he also said the bike only needed points to run. usually with the other small motors ive worked on, you set the points and never have to touch them again. :car:

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yea i took it all apart and cleaned it, then my grandpa decided to touch and he lost the needle seat so i had to buy one witch was 30 bucks. it also could be the settings, im not sure if these things have a high speed jet but i got it going, it runs, but i have no power at high speeds, i can go 1 2 3 4 5 but when you get to 5 it starts to bog then you gotta drop down to 4 then 3 and eventally start over again, it sounds like a fluttering noise.

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Have you looked at the reed valves? You should only be able to blow air through them...ie you should not be able to 'suck' air through them. Visually you should see they are flat and sealed against the reed cage...or very close to it

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