tmusser Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Hey folks, hope everyones doin awsome, and gettin some miles in since warm weather is finally here!!!! My names Tony, from Kendallville Indiana, USA. I ride a 1979 XS1100 F. Shes a bit on the beaten up side {bought her that way) but a fun fast ride nonetheless. I also just 2 days ago while doin some gorse tradin, aquired a 1981 maxim 550, which im hoping to get running for the wife to learn on. At the moment the 1100 is down with an exhaust issue, had to pull the header pipes and broke a stud. im kinda sketchy about tryin to EZ out it myself, as im unsure as to what kind of thickness im dealing with around those studs.... any give me an idea? i REALLY dont wanna mess the head up. til we meet next, keep rubber to road, and the wind in your face, peace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nayruf Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Hi Tmusser Patience is a virtue, especially when it comes to removing bust studs, If enough of the stud is proud of the surface, I would try a stud extractor with a knurled cam disc or you could try a Klann stud extractor which is a bit like a drill chuck or even a good old fashioned small pair of mole grips, if the stud is bust flush with the surface, You could try to use a dremel and very carefully drill down the centre of the stud with successively larger diameter drills until I could get a reasonably sized reverse thread stud extractor in the hole the only problem is if one of these snap they are even harder to remove than the original stud. This in mind I have in the past used successively larger drills until all that is left in the housing is the thread, this I have carefully peeled out the thread as if it was a spring then re-dressed the hole with a tap. Some people just go the whole hog drill the whole stud out and use a ‘heli-coil’ thread, in some aircraft components I have seen an externally threaded sleeve which was tightened and bonded into an over sized hole in a casing then the inside of the sleeve was tapped to suit the stud that was going to be used , often applying heat to the casing will help in the past I have used electric hot air guns, boiling water and when the boss is out the oven, as to the length of the stud and how far you can drill, try to remove one of the other studs with two nuts locked together to find how deep the studs fit into the head, obviously all this is providing you can get good access to the cylinder head, so although it adds to the overall hassle of the job removing the head might be a wise thing to do. hope this gives you some idea's, Oh by the way: hello and good luck AJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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