rxs100 revs high then loses power and cuts out

[Airhead]

hmm never hear of a plasic one, usually the floats are plastic and they are connected to a brass structure, i cant advise you to bend a plastic one either

[jamierxs100]

took some photos of the job...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lost84/7159282460/

Maybe you can't adjust the float height, maybe I need a new float.

[wild foamy]

im not 100% familiar with this model of bike... but shouldnt that drain tube (copper pipe sticking up from the bottom of the float bowl) be straight? it was on my DT50, it is on my XJ600 and the 650 Turbo, this could explain the leaking fuel as the tube is draining fuel from a level below your float cut-off point

[jamierxs100]

not sure about that one, Hanes isn't clear in that area, and the carb in my photo is a slightly different model. But on that photo the end does look a bit bent, could just be that it is out of focus.

current status:

just fitted new fuel tap and fuel line and thats stopped the leaks there, started up on the trird kick. while the engine was running there were no leaks from the overflow - only on for a few minutes. when I turned it off I left the reserve tank on and got a leak. maybe this is normal. Just waiting for the air filter to arrive then I can get her on the road and see how we get on. Should arrive any time now.

[jamierxs100]

Found a link to the carb manual a VM22SS

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf

also heard that a DT175 carb will fit my bike, anyone have any thoughts on this?

[jamierxs100]

just to report back,

after cleaning carb and replacing fuel tap the carb is not leaking now, so looks like its sorted. thanks for the help and advice.

[Airhead]

good stuff jamie now have some fun fella

[jamierxs100]

cheers air head, took it out for test drive today after finally fitting the air filter. With the air box as spec this was the first time I couldn't start it, then I gave her some choke and she was fine. went around the block a few time and loved the acceleration, feels like a really fast little bike. Makes a great sound too.

Only oddity was whenever I brought the bike to stop in first with no throttle, clutch fully depressed, the bike lost power. Seemed ok if I kept on the revs a bit. When it cut out it wouldn't start straight away, I'd get it back in neutral and it would start ok, and as long as I kept on the revs it was fine.

the other thing is the electrics seem terrible, but I've read a lot about that. As i discover the quirks of this bike I see it is only 6v even though its registered 96. I think the engine may be an older model and the electrics are 6v for compatibility with the generator in the engine.

[Airhead]

Its not something as simple as adjusting the throttle stop screw then?

[jamierxs100]

maybe, did play about with it, in neutral it revs as per Haynes spec, if first there is a bit of a dip when I change down, is this normal? will take it for another spin and adjust it a bit higher, see if that make the difference.

[Airhead]

a dip when you select first from neutral, when idling?...even with a hot engine?

[wild foamy]

Dip in revs when changing into gear could be an indicator of a dragging clutch, adjust your clutch so that it disengages with less pull on the lever and see if that helps, it would also make changing into neutral when in gear at a standstill harder

[jamierxs100]

think you were right Air head, probably was just the screw, increased it a bit, took it out and once it warmed up the idle revs drop off more, so adjusted it it 1500ish while warm and didn't have a problem. Starting to love this bike again.

[jamierxs100]

wild foamy, ok, will look at that too, the clutch has to be fully depressed to change gear and getting it to neutral is a right pain. will look at haynes see how to do it. Hopefully its quite easy, like the carb.

[jamierxs100]

took her out again, was sound and did not cut out, revs didn't seem to dip on gear change with warm engine, and it didn't cut out in first (although I kept revving her a bit when I wasn't sure).

I could not get it in neutral while the engine was running, only when I turned it off, then finding neutral was easy. The clutch cable near the bars is out as far as it will go. But I can't get the side off to look at the other end. Got one screw off, but the others wouldn't budge, and the screw heads are like marzipan.

[wild foamy]

definately sounds like a slipping clutch, on the DT and the XJs there is a little bolt to adjust the clutch where the cable goes into the crankcase aswell as one on the handlebars

[jamierxs100]

on the rxs100 there is a cover on the left side that encases the cable adjuster. The cover is held in place by 4 screws, I can get two of these off no problem, but the other 2 srews are stuck fast and quite damaged. I got a bigger screwdriver that was a better fit but I still didn't get them open. May have to give up and take it to the garage

[Airhead]

you could drill the heads off the screws and remove the case that way, once the case is off you will have something to get a hold of with vice grips?

6mm drill

[jamierxs100]

managed to drill off one screw, and managed to get the others off naturally. I adjusted the clutch so there was just a little bit of free play on the lever.

think this has sorted it, just took her out, did about 16 miles, very smooth ran well and managed to put it in neutral while engine was running.

thats it, think everything is sorted now. Time to take it to work tomorrow. The only thing I need is some bolts to replace the one and drilled and the others that look a bit tired.

[Airhead]

you may get screws from yambits jamie