Moderator Airhead Posted September 25, 2013 Moderator Posted September 25, 2013 Still dont see why you believe this to be the case??? normal engineering practice is to pull/push the shaft through the bearing,
Moderator drewpy Posted September 26, 2013 Author Moderator Posted September 26, 2013 I see what your saying Paul, but all the manual states that the right left bearing put in the casing and the right on the crank! I just followed that. I got a lead for a guy in Bury who may be able to help whether he takes off the bearing and fits it that way, I'm not bothered, so long as the crank is fitted on that side! cheers for the info
Tommy xs Posted September 29, 2013 Posted September 29, 2013 you'll be hard pressed to get this finished for christmas
Moderator drewpy Posted September 29, 2013 Author Moderator Posted September 29, 2013 you'll be surprised, when i get the frame done/painted is just a matter of assembly. the front end is done, mate has the silver parts for shot blasting, then I can use the scout hut as a paint shop whether it starts/works or not is another matter though
Tommy xs Posted September 29, 2013 Posted September 29, 2013 Think you missed the pun there Drew "bearing in mind the crankcase you'll be hard pressed" ah never mind!!
blackhat250 Posted September 29, 2013 Posted September 29, 2013 Hes slower than a 4 stroke tommy " Drwewps i"ll find video of the tool, , yeh pull crank thru casing ,,,
Moderator drewpy Posted September 29, 2013 Author Moderator Posted September 29, 2013 Think you missed the pun there Drew "bearing in mind the crankcase you'll be hard pressed" ah never mind!! I know, it was crap though. thought it best not to mention it
Moderator drewpy Posted September 29, 2013 Author Moderator Posted September 29, 2013 Hes slower than a 4 stroke tommy " Drwewps i"ll find video of the tool, , yeh pull crank thru casing ,,, I'll be interested on how it it done John
blackhat250 Posted September 29, 2013 Posted September 29, 2013 hERE " I Used a concrete core bit,[ cut down ] to pull the TS250 crank thru, skip to rebuild part of vid,,, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVKeT8Mh2dQ
Moderator drewpy Posted September 29, 2013 Author Moderator Posted September 29, 2013 Ah, it all becomes clear now, cheers for that John
Moderator drewpy Posted September 30, 2013 Author Moderator Posted September 30, 2013 yay sorted, took it round to a guy called Ant, who has a cottage industry in his garage. took him all of 5 mins with the right tools, even checked my crank for alignment. cost? FREE, yep gratis going to send my fz head for him to do as he gas flows heads/valves etc
Moderator drewpy Posted October 1, 2013 Author Moderator Posted October 1, 2013 built the bottom end tonight and loose fitted the head and casings for the photo's just need to clean the little clutch, tighten a few things up, then work out how/where to time the AM6 mag/electronic ignition, sort out squish band etc etc
Moderator Airhead Posted October 1, 2013 Moderator Posted October 1, 2013 That head has an awful lot of finning looking great mate
blackhat250 Posted October 1, 2013 Posted October 1, 2013 Yeh thats a "cool" radial finned head,,,,looks like the Maico"s of the 1970"s
Moderator drewpy Posted October 1, 2013 Author Moderator Posted October 1, 2013 take the head off and there's a tiny hole for the piston anyone know how to identify the mag "point of fire" on these electronic systems. Its an AM6 off a Derbi Senda.
Moderator Airhead Posted October 1, 2013 Moderator Posted October 1, 2013 isnt there lines on the rotor and a mark on the casing?
Moderator drewpy Posted October 1, 2013 Author Moderator Posted October 1, 2013 isnt there lines on the rotor and a mark on the casing? I wish
Moderator Airhead Posted October 2, 2013 Moderator Posted October 2, 2013 what does the manual say then?
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