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  • Moderator
Posted

here's a little taster

IMAG0837_zpscc498ec2.jpg

  • Like 2
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Posted

Definatly need to chamfer the shooe edges on them front brakes so they dont snatch the brake on when pulled lightly

Lookin good sir

  • Moderator
Posted

Definatly need to chamfer the shooe edges on them front brakes so they dont snatch the brake on when pulled lightly

Lookin good sir

thank, it coming along nicely

is there any danger that enthusiastic use of that brake will bend the forks? :o

possibly, but top speed is 40 to 50 so pretty remote,esp with 1 finger braking :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Moderator
Posted

well I just modified the z400 rear tail bracketr and also bought a new Moto guzzi lamp from Germany and had to mod that too.

looking pretty good now ;) just needs painting silver to match the rest of the bike

IMAG0841_zpsbb119ea5.jpg

IMAG0840_zpsf541c353.jpg

Posted

The best for silver spray is "Motip Chromespray",,,,,,,,rattle can

It actually looks like real chrome

Posted

All lookin good this has been a very interseting build to watch. As tommy said I realy wouldn't have looked twice at a 50 to restor/build better than just make it run right and stop.

But with that beauty seat and the tank the new head lamp with speedo hidden inside this is going to be one looker of a 50,that will stop on a dime. May I ask why you chosed that bike,was it dirt cheap to start with? or just something that you had in the back of you mind to do some day? If I am correct this is for your son to learn on right what a lucky lad,personaly i would never put that much work into a bike then hand it over to a rookey be interseting to see how long it stays nice,hopefully forever for both your son and the bikes sake Keep up the great work I'll be . :popcorn: watching.

Posted

I quite like the black, but I can't see the whole picture yet, but it might look bigger all silver, to me the black breaks it up and also gives it that classic look

  • Moderator
Posted

I quite like the black, but I can't see the whole picture yet, but it might look bigger all silver, to me the black breaks it up and also gives it that classic look

the Tank, sidepanels, swingarm, chain guard and forks are painted silver and the original tail is silver too.

Pat, I have two rattle cans of wheel silver for free so I have given them a once over to see how I like it

All lookin good this has been a very interseting build to watch. As tommy said I realy wouldn't have looked twice at a 50 to restor/build better than just make it run right and stop.

But with that beauty seat and the tank the new head lamp with speedo hidden inside this is going to be one looker of a 50,that will stop on a dime. May I ask why you chosed that bike,was it dirt cheap to start with? or just something that you had in the back of you mind to do some day? If I am correct this is for your son to learn on right what a lucky lad,personaly i would never put that much work into a bike then hand it over to a rookey be interseting to see how long it stays nice,hopefully forever for both your son and the bikes sake Keep up the great work I'll be . :popcorn: watching.

cheers, i got the bike cheapish a few years ago but love the Italian styling.

If he don't take to the bike I'm not too worried as its been great working on it not spent too much on it either.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Moderator
Posted

just had a quote to stellite and grind the selector fork from SEP.....£70 + VAT :thud:


Posted

can you not anneal them yourself? that price is a bit steep for a selector fork!

  • Moderator
Posted

can you not anneal them yourself? that price is a bit steep for a selector fork!

its not about annealing, but refacing the wear. Stellite is a chrome based weld which is so hard only grinding can remove the material.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

you gonna get back on this after squire's Drew ?

  • Moderator
Posted

I am, can't wait as pay day is in a few weeks and get the rest of the gear ordered

Posted

great, looking forward to seeing you finish this

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Moderator
Posted

damn and blast, had the day off today to build the bottom end and the crank with bearing on won't go in the case without a press. I've tried heating the case and freezing the crank and it didn't work :(

I've asked kev if he knows any one in the Bolton area who could do it but if anyone local to me (manchester) can do it let me know

cheers

Drewps

Posted

Drewps " i made a puller . to pull crank thru On TS250. . out of a 60mm core drill , cut it down till crank threads stuck thru, then bolts and washers ,, pulled it in to case,, :eusa_shifty:

  • Moderator
Posted

Drewps " i made a puller . to pull crank thru On TS250. . out of a 60mm core drill , cut it down till crank threads stuck thru, then bolts and washers ,, pulled it in to case,, :eusa_shifty:

do you have a picture as I can't visualise it.

  • Moderator
Posted

damn and blast, had the day off today to build the bottom end and the crank with bearing on won't go in the case without a press. I've tried heating the case and freezing the crank and it didn't work :(

I've asked kev if he knows any one in the Bolton area who could do it but if anyone local to me (manchester) can do it let me know

cheers

Drewps

you need to be careful here mate, the bearing should be in the case and not on the crank before any attempt at assembly, the same thing sometimes happens to DT's whereby the bearing stays on the crank during disassembly but It's not supposed to be that way!

  • Moderator
Posted

it is on the Gilera as per Gilera manual

one side the bearing is in the case and the other is on the crank, looks like it pulls the crank through

crank-bearing_zpse9d59fc5.jpg


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