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Posted

100 Mile update

So I finally got out for a ride and here's how the break in went:

0-20 miles were pretty good, just stop and go around town but the engine would bog down around 3500 rpms. One of my mirrors was loose and I was near the bike shop so I figured it was as good a place as any to tighten up. I mentioned to one of the old MXers that I needed to dial in the carb and within seconds he had a screwdriver out of his pocket and tuned it for me. Huge huge difference and the only payment was to let him take it around the block.

20-40 miles I was still trying to keep it under 5000 rpms but getting out on some longer country roads. I'm guessing the rings seated themselves around 40 miles because acceleration and performance seemed noticeably smoother.

40-60 miles I decided to go for some winding country asphalt that would need a lot of shifting and tried to move through the gears while staying between 4000 and 6000 rpms whenever possible. That seems to be where this bike wants to live. This is where I really started having fun.

60-80 miles I found some longer stretches of road to get up to speed, maxing out at 60 mph and just under 6000 rpms on a smooth straightaway. I didn't push it any further than this.

80-100 miles was time to take a night ride and try out the halogen headlight. It was fine for driving around town but I don't think it was bright enough to be safe once I was out in the country in pitch dark. Maybe at around 20-30mph on a road I know but It pretty much just lights up they land a little bit. My high beam is out of whack and wasn't worth using, probably because I had to turn the Husqvarna lens off axis a bit to make it fit.

Flyday mentioned earlier that he changed his rear sprocket to 45 teeth on the rear and kept 16 on the front for a final drive ratio of 2.8125.

I currently have 49 teeth on the rear and 18 on the front for a final drive ratio of 2.7222. I've been pulling just under 4500 rpms at 45 mph, and just under 5500 rpms at 55mph with a new 66.75mm Yamaha piston and rings on this rebuild.

Probably pretty close to being six of one, half dozen when comparing these drive setups on the same model bike but in theory, flyday should still have a little more power off the line and I should be able to hit top speed pulling slightly less rpms.

Here's some pics:

Exhaust side closeup exhaust

Right side full rightside

Handlebars http://www.flickr.com/photos/76003800@N02/6852633856/

Engine closeup engine

Left side full leftsidebike

And what's a countdown to startup without a startup vid?

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  • Moderator
Posted

Glad you are enjoying it, i have the 16 cog on the front and tbh 60mph is a bit of a fantasy i get around 45mph at 6k but living in the folds of the nene valley means i have those long, shallow, hp sapping hills to deal with and i can go nearly as fast on them as the flat so i think it'll do.

It also means i can hike the front in the first 2 gears easily for a bit of sillyness :eusa_naughty: .

Posted

Glad you are enjoying it, i have the 16 cog on the front and tbh 60mph is a bit of a fantasy i get around 45mph at 6k but living in the folds of the nene valley means i have those long, shallow, hp sapping hills to deal with and i can go nearly as fast on them as the flat so i think it'll do.

It also means i can hike the front in the first 2 gears easily for a bit of sillyness :eusa_naughty: .

LOL! No wheelies for this rider. But you bring up a good point that I forgot to mention. My setup is kind of a dog when I get into the hills if I don't drop down around 4th gear. My top speeds are on a straightaway flat and good headwind would probably slow me down.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I know this post is a few years old but I've run into the same problem. My oil cable is 11 cm as shown above and too short. Means the oil pump closes to about half way at a minimum - which probably explains why loads of smoke at low revs, way rich on the fueling settings and a different plug had been installed when I bought her. Yambits don't have the cable, Wemoto have but it measures 16cm which is too long from the photo above. Any ideas where I can get the correct one other than cmsnl?

Cheers

Grumpy

  • Moderator
Posted

Unsolder the nipple, remove the inner from the outer sheath and cut the required amount off the sheath, then re fit the end ferrule and re-solder the nipple back on.

Posted

Brilliant idea, thanks Airhead! Off to google on soldering nipples, that could be interesting.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey all. WOW, I've been gone a while, now we are soldering nipples?? I LOVE Europe!

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey flybee " wheres ya been,,,, :butterfly:

Posted

Hey flybee " wheres ya been,,,, :butterfly:

They tossed me out of the UK and the rest of Eastern Europe, merger mania gone awry. I'm no longer senior enough (with 24+ years) to come and visit, now I just wing to and fro across the Etats Unidos. Also moved to temporary living quarters while we have a house built, so while I have my Yamatoys near, I can't do much with them at the mo.

DT has a harmonic vibe that needs to be sorted, one of the bearings in the gear train I suspect.

AT1 needs the starter and generator looked at as it makes strange chuffing noises when the electric start is used.

The XVZ needs a complete disassemble and refurbishment. Wasn't sure about keeping this one because it seemed to have not much pep for almost 1200 cc's, but I discovered it was only running on three, maybe even two cylinders due to the computer having been subjected to rain dripping for the last 6 years. Couldn't believe it even ran after I saw the inside of the TCI (computer). :offtopic:

Any ho, still out here endeavoring to cause grievous mental harm to the great British public. And the lovely Scots, my favorite peeps. Late-ers!

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