RogerD Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 May have outsmarted myself here. Just finished a resto on another 74 DT360A. Sold it on ebay last week ($3200) Had it running like new but noticed a slight leak around the shift shaft and decided to replace the seal. After replacing the seal, I had trouble getting the circlip in the slot - no clearance - had to pull on the shaft to expose the slot? When re-installing the shift lever, I had to tap on it to get it on the shaft. When i started it for a test ride, the shifter would not engage. I pulled the shaft out about 1/2" and was able to shift into first, but it won't upshift into any other gear. It was getting dark, so I rolled it in for the night. Any thoughts? Did I do something tapping on the shifter shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy10bikes Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Its a simple fix but you have to remove the clutch cover and slip the torsion spring back over the locating peg, you may even have to a line the plate again gear teeth again. Its a bit hard to explain but once the clutch cover is removed its fairly simple. PM me if you get stuck TTB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerD Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Just got back - looked at some schematics, going out to the shop now. Thanks for the help! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerD Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Here's what it looks like. The torsion spring looks to be in the correct place - yes?I did take the cam stop screw out of the bottom of the trans case to help drain the oil. Now I can't get it OUT of gear? Do I need to take the clutch basket off? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerD Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Thanks for the input everyone. As you can see, when I took off the clutch basket, the two change levers ( #'s 2 & 3)were out of sync - or "untimed" . When replacing the shaft seal on the lever end of the change shaft( # 1), when the "e" clip is removed, it's easy to push the shaft towards the clutch side. When this happens, the change lever (# 3) on the end of the fork shift guide bar (# 4), which is spring loaded, snaps down out of position. I think I have them in phase now - there only seems to be an alignment mark on lever # 3 - the dot right in the center, just to the left of the yellow 3. It seems to shift up and down fine now, so unless anyone has an objection, I am going out to the shop to reassemble the clutch and cover. Thanks to everyone who had input here- and HAPPY NEW YEAR! I learned something today, so I count it as a good day - Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Good post rodger,,, illustation"s the lot , great help for the DT fans.... well done,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerD Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks - Ireally learned some things on this one. I was wondering why my pictures were not larger though. It would make it much easier to see details. Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy10bikes Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks - Ireally learned some things on this one. I was wondering why my pictures were not larger though. It would make it much easier to see details. Rog I have been stripping my TT600R motor today so sorry for not getting back, yes larger pictures would help and you may have got away without removing the clutch and just putting some pressure adainst the torsion spring at the same time as pushing the shaft back in. Not to worry though Roger at least yo have had a go and repaired it. Cheers TTB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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