gizmo666 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 http://www.trojan-horse.co.uk/prods/256.html Mobil1 V-twin oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossr Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Hi all, Bit of a long story. tis worth it as selecting the right oil for your bike engine is critical. See my post to-day under Yamaha Workshop 'Oils aint Oils'. I know bugger all about bikes but a bit about oil. Hence my posted questions. Very important on air cooled apps. running very hot I would imagine. Years ago I did a course with ESSO as a new Servo dealer. My explanation from my old memory as follows. Understand that 'viscosity' is the ability of a fluid to flow. Different orgs. do diff. tests but SAE set this by timing how many seconds it takes for a given fluid to flow thru a specific orifice at a specific temperature. SAE 30 takes 30 seconds. API (American Petroleum Institute) also issue results for a wide range of tests like friction, water absorbtion, holding solids in suspension, anti sludge, etc. as a result of using ever improving additives and 'Synthetic' oils. They then give a particular oil a rating for both petrol and diesel applications. The 'S?' like SL is petrol. The 'C?' like CD is for diesel. Hence an SM grade oil is a 'better' oil than SL etc. We need to be aware that an automotive SL oil is NOT suitable for a Yamaha bike as it does not have additional additives that provide protection under extreme pressure. ie clutch and gearbox. I use MOTUL 4T MA SL 15w50 here in Cairns. The 'MA' bit is the bike certification. 15w50 because of our temp. Years ago we only had one choice. A 'mono grade' oil as specified by SAE...say SAE 30. Typically this is still used as a 'running-in 'oil. Reason being that piston rings will 'glaze' the cylinder walls when a hi perf. oil is used resulting in oil burning. The rings need time to 'bed in', say 1,000k before we move on to a hi quality product. Then came duo grade oils....about 50 years ago. Say 30w40 courtesy of technology called friction modifiers (VIIP -Viscosity Index Improvers), that managed to improve the viscosity index. All oils thin out when heated. A 30w40 is the same vis. as a SAE 30 at room?? temp. BUT is no thinner than SAE40 at operating temp. Multigrade oils say 15w50 are similar. Same as SAE 15 at room temp., but still as thick as SAE50 at operating temp. Hence we get the benifit of a thin oil getting into all the right places on a cold start, but still providing the protection of a thicker SAE50 when operating. Hope this helps. rossr (Ross Rolley) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossr Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 A bit more I found re MA oils. The JASO MA2 approval is the top motorcycle specification currently available and ensure that this two new oils are the cutting edge of motorcycle lubricant technology. The JASO MA and MA2 specifications are the only true motorcycle specific approvals available and as such are a sign that the oil has passed stringent motorcycle performance tests. Tests include the crucial clutch friction test allowing safe, predictable use in wet clutch applications. Both products also offer outstanding gear protection . The JASO stands for 'Japanese Automotive Standards Organization', Japanese counterpart to say the United States SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) organization?! Note that the MA2 oil is also API SM rated though only seems to be available in 2 grades. I like the 15w50 for our hot weather. rossr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toutsuite Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Thanks for the info rossr, good to know this stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossr Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Still working on running in my new XVS650....now 500k. It is a bit hard to start and takes a few seconds to settle on cold start-up, gearbox clunky. I am trying to do all the right things re. 'running-in' but have also: Contacted Yamaha to see if I can drain/change the original engine oil to my preferred MOTUL 4T MA SL 15w50. They say change it if you like but stay with a straight mineral oil for the full 1,000...so I will. I have changed the plugs to NGK Iridium and gone just one grade colder as it is a new eng. and a warm climate here in Cairns. The original DPR7EA9 with DPR8EIX9. Ignition can only improve- just a matter of degree??? I use FlashLube Valve Saver (Lead replacement) fuell additive in my car. I contacted Flash Lube and had a good yarn to the bloke there. I have now added FlashLube to the bike tank. Even while running in the 1ml per 1 litre of fuel cannot do any harm. Over the long term however it does pay to use an upper cylinder lube and valve cleaning agent. FlashLube say that after running in the high heat and revs. levels will benifit from 2ml per 1 litre. Only use 95 Octane lead free by the way. In a perfect world I will have a real smooth running sucker after a few more K and a change to better oils. Cheers rossr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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