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Bloody Bike!!!


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Let me get this right. You mean that the carb isnt get any fuel when the filter is connected, and the fuel chamber isnt filling up?

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Let me get this right. You mean that the carb isnt get any fuel when the filter is connected, and the fuel chamber isnt filling up?

You see i'm not entirely sure. I was having problems starting the bike after putting the filter on. Then removed the filter and put the direct pipe back on and all was ok!

The filter doesnt fill up, only the a small bit of fuel sits in it. :huh::huh:

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It sometimes seems that the fuel flter is crap.

when you first fill them up make sure they a pointing straight down. Then the air can either be pushed out or filter back up. Once ther'e full they are OK but getting them full takes a little experimentation.

As for the brake caliper It maybe dry siezed so add a few drops of brake oil to your piston to keep it wet.

Not sure about it not starting just yet. Did you use the choke?

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The brake is sorted now, just waiting on MandP to send me a braided line.

I took it to bits and cleaned it all and lubed the piston up.

I'll give the filter another go when i get a bit of time. It makes sense what u said jimjam, i'll try it and let you know if i'm successful.

Just ordered a new air filter, cus my one is in pieces!

The f~#ked airfilter is very likely contributing to the poor starts, no idling and blocking of the carb! The filter should sort out a few things i hope!

....however the bike seems to be ok, ive been using most of the week and weekend. It takes about 10 kicks (with choke) to get going from cold. But after that its fine. (1 kick starts)

I keep you posted!

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I did try it the other way just, behaves the same! But when i have a bit of time i'll have another try.

I got the airfilter today, thought it would solve my woes of lack of idle......but no! Still doesnt idle! I can get it to idle at 3000rpm but nothing below, it just dies!

The floats have been set, the air filter is new, the plug is quite new, i've set the pilot screw 1 and 3/4 turns then turned the idle screw to adjust the idle speed........but no!

BLOODY BIKE!!

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How fresh is the top end? Low compression can lead to hard starting woes so it might be worth trying some new rings if you're unsure of when it was last done.

Knackered/chipped reeds can bugger the idle up.

My first TZR250 had really worn bores and was a b*tch to start from cold. After getting it rebored with fresh pistons and rings it started first or second prod.

Just a couple of things to investigate when you have the time/money. Again, these aren't 2 stroke 'unreliability' issues, just a function of the bike's age and possible lack of preventative maintainence by previous owners.

Mick.

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How fresh is the top end? Low compression can lead to hard starting woes so it might be worth trying some new rings if you're unsure of when it was last done.

Knackered/chipped reeds can bugger the idle up.

My first TZR250 had really worn bores and was a b*tch to start from cold. After getting it rebored with fresh pistons and rings it started first or second prod.

Just a couple of things to investigate when you have the time/money. Again, these aren't 2 stroke 'unreliability' issues, just a function of the bike's age and possible lack of preventative maintainence by previous owners.

Mick.

Interesting........i'm not sure how fresh the top end is.....the bike was stationary for 15 years, and before that i'm not sure how frequent maintenance was.

However its only got 9000miles on the clock!

Would a rebuild be required in such an instant? Usual cost to do such a thing? (i'd have to do it myself, so parts and time?)

Also how would the reeds get chippped? Just through general use?

Thanks for the replies by the way

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However its only got 9000miles on the clock!

They genuine? Or is it a newer clock?

Would a rebuild be required in such an instant? Usual cost to do such a thing? (i'd have to do it myself, so parts and time?)

Also how would the reeds get chipped? Just through general use?

Thanks for the replies by the way

No problem. Reeds can chip through age, general wear and tear, that sort of thing.

A top end rebuild/refresh is fairly straightforward, but if it's your first go at it you'd be best off giving a whole weekend over to doing it properly. It'll cost around £30 if you just do the rings, around £70 for the whole lot (piston & bearing). Budget £100 if you want to rebore it.

You'll need;

1 genuine Yam head gasket (it's really not worth skimping on this one)

1 base gasket

New rings (at least) New piston & little end bearing if you're doing the whole lot.

Torque wrench

A Haynes or workshop manual.

I'll write more tomorrow 'cos the missus is shouting at me now :blink::lol:

Mick.

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OK, peace and quiet at work...

When you do a top end with the engine in the bike you need to make sure the areas around the head and crankcase are nice and clean and free from any bits of crud that might drop into the case, because that would be A Bad Thing.

Once you've done a top end, the next time will be loads easier. Just make sure you've got plenty of time and don't need the bike for a day or two, just in case, and make sure you order all the bits you'll need before you take stuff apart- it helps...

Mick.

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Sorry been a but busy so havent had a chance to reply.....

I believe the miles are genuine, the bike was last taxed in 1990, so i think it was only ridden for 2 years.

Thanks Mickt for the info by the way, i'm so tempted to give it a go. The only thing holding me back is lack of funds!! :(:(

Before i do that i may just take into a garage and see if they can diagnose anything....just in case its something really simple!

Then if they say :-

"....ooooo, your looking at an expensive job there mate, we're gonna have to take the WHOLE lot to bits and completely rebuild your doo-woop-shaft and reshape the diddly sproket"

....then i'll say

"....okay, well i'm gonna have to save up and then i'll come back and get you do sort it out for me!.....you did say it needed a rebuild on the doo-woop-shaft??.......thank you.....bye bye!"

If it turns out i need a rebuild then i'll do it. But hopefully its something simple. i'll give it a bit of TLC when the new brake line appears and i'll have a mess with the fuel filter.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks again

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....been a bit lazy this weekend and the weathers been a bit shite. So no progress.

I think i may have worked out a way to completely fill the fuel filter.

....theres a screw on the bottom of the float bowl, which when slackened, purges the float bowl.

So if i connect it up and allow the fuel to flow it should fill up the fuel filter! Fingers crossed!

The other day i left the bike over night and when i went to start it in the morning the it wouldnt start. So i turned the fuel off and purged the carb of remaining fuel. I then turned the fuel on again and it start as usual!

.....i'm thinkin another balancing session with the floats!

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You might have sticky floats. Although they are set right they may not go up or down and 'freeze' in the off position.

Or you've lots of crud on your fuel tap.

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You might have sticky floats. Although they are set right they may not go up or down and 'freeze' in the off position.

Or you've lots of crud on your fuel tap.

very true or maybe i have a punctured float??

This weekend i'm going to spend some time with the B~TCH. I give it another balance and check the floats for any signs or possiblities of sticking.

Thanks jimjam

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....the saga continues to continue!

....woke up got on bike, BIKE = FINE

....drove to work, BIKE = FINE

.....finished work got on bike, BIKE = NO FRONT BRAKE! (no pressure)

.....drove 12miles home through central London, ME = SHITTING MYSELF

.....got home, BIKE = FRONT BRAKE WORKING!!

WTF is going on!!!!

Still havent received my brake line from Goodridge!!!

May get a master cylinder repair kit aswell! .....but everything looked fine in the master cylinder?? I have the pics to prove it!!

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All looks fine to me, but underpressure the seal may not work as it should, whilst its out get a new piston set from patternparts, comes with new spring, seals, and surclip. Costs about a tenner if i remember. B)

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