busyeddie Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Been out a couple of times for group rides with lads on much newer bigger four strokes, and could not help feel the old dt was getting a pasting. Inevitably ill end up buying a WR soon enough, but would like to still use the DT as it was intended. Wanting to keep things as standard as possible, what can be done to improve the off road capability? And as for tyres I struggled to get any modern 4 inch enduro tyres to fit with out the outer knobs fouling, so ended up with a very soft michelin trials in the back for mot purposes. Admittedly it does look the part, but wont last long on tarmac! What tyres come recommended for greenlaning with a medium dose of tarmac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted August 29, 2011 Moderator Share Posted August 29, 2011 Giant killing on the DT, you want an open block road tyre on the rear, no silly huge blocked thing that you see on the modern crossers as you don't have the mud clearance on the sw arm. Do what you like with the front tyre. Thats more important off road anyhow. The suspention is limited, bike's 30yrs old, jack up kits appear from time to time on e-bay but its a lot of cash for what they are, how familiar are you with the fork internals? Don't be tempted by fitting DTR forks. You can fit them but you loose your steering lock massively and the disk is not that much better than the drum if its maintained. Try to bide your time till you get the technical bits, thats where the DT will shine. Tight twisty stuff and rely on spinning the rear up for traction. Don't forget it weighs a bloody site less a lot of the newer stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busyeddie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Thanks cynic, I thought as much on the rear tyre, ill just use what ive got until it needs replacing. I didnt really want to change the forks,wondered if there were any tried and tested springs/oil combos? And the rear shock, is it hard to rebuild? By the way im a lazy 14 stone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted August 29, 2011 Moderator Share Posted August 29, 2011 Don't know on rebuilding the rear shock, so long as its got enough damping for the mot man i shouldn't worry. A cheap (read bodge) that is common is to re-drill the frame under the tank a little further back to lift the rear a little. Dont go back any more than an inch at most as that will equate to something like a 3 inch lift at the rear and seems to affect the sus ratio somehow as its firmer and helps. You really should weld some thick washers onto the the frame where you make the extra holes to put the strength back in the frame but its not vital (i can hear the restorers cringe ) the frame is plenty strong enough to handle it. I never had problems not welding the washers up. Other than that you can pi55 about with oil in the front if you want, maybe some stiffer springs but your flogging a dead horse tbh. The bike's strength is that it will soak up all the punishment you give it, more than enough to brake the newer stuff and keep on running. I have dunked mine more than once. Clean the plug 5mins stood on the back wheel and away you go. If you are running off road a lot you may want to knock up a sheild to keep the crud out of the airbox intake if you like puddles if yours is a 1980 model and run your gearbox breather and carb breathers up under the tank. You will anhialate the rear indicators very quickly, the tail light won't last long either and keep an eye on your fuel consumption as the tank is tiny 40mile is possible if you really enjoy yourself. The only other thing to watch is the u bend on the front pipe it is vulnerable infront of the bash plate. Otherwise apart from shares in WD40 (drench anything electrical) enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahait Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 hi i have a 175 i have used for green laning,agree about not using dtr forks,tried it,instead went for xt 350 forks, smaller diameter,fair bit more travel and a disc brake,dont restrict lock by much,was a good compromise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busyeddie Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Indicators are already relegated to the shed, running a much smaller than standard rear light with a soft rubber housing. Could not believe the size of the standard rear light in the haynes book!! Mine is a very early January 1979 bike. So I dont know how similar to a 1978 bike that would make it, if they're any differences at all. Sorry to sound daft, but where are these breathers? Should I extend the float bowl overflow elsewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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